P4U/Green Leaf IPV2 50W - Product Spec, Performance, Usage & Issues Thread

[BigLungs]

There is a lot to read here and im sure its covered somewhere but I just need to get something right in my head.

Thing will fire a .2 ohm coil. The max wattage is 50
A .2 ohm coil at 50watts is like 3.1v. I see the output voltage as 3.6-8.5. How does it run a .2ohm coil at 50watts?

As atroph said, I would assume it limits the current.

The device has a limit of 16 amps, which with a 0.20 ohm coil comes to 51.2 watts.

I don't run this low of a resistance, so I can't confirm how much voltage makes it to the coil, nor do I care to rip a build out to test it. Perhaps someone else with a multimeter can answer for you.

Personally I see no reason to run low low sub ohm on regulated mods when you can just coil higher resistance and achieve the same thing.

 

[dwarfcat]

As atroph said, I would assume it limits the current.

The device has a limit of 16 amps, which with a 0.2 ohm coil comes to 51.2 watts.

I don't run this low of a resistance, so I can't confirm how much voltage makes it to the coil, nor do I care to rip a build out to test it. Perhaps someone else with a multimeter can answer for you.

Personally I see no reason to run low low sub ohm on regulated mods when you can just coil higher resistance and achieve the same thing.

Agreed, ill likely never go below .5 with 1 being more my sweet spot but I was just curious. 16amps on a .2 coil is still 3.2v which seems to be below the lowest it can fire. a .25 ohm coil at 50watts is like 3.55 so close to the low side.

 

[suspectK]

It has a 3.6 Volt minimum. When I was using/measuring my 0.22 Ohm build, it was staying at 3.6 Volts...from a fresh to almost dead battery.

 

[BigLungs]

Agreed, ill likely never go below .5 with 1 being more my sweet spot but I was just curious. 16amps on a .2 coil is still 3.2v which seems to be below the lowest it can fire. a .25 ohm coil at 50watts is like 3.55 so close to the low side.

That's pretty much the same range I prefer to stay in myself, in case anything happens to my regulated I can switch to mechs and still be satisfied.

Well it has the ability to draw in 20 amps from the battery and output 16 amps to the load. It most likely just pushes the full 16 amps(assuming resistance of 0.20 ohm). This would make it 3.2v, however it isn't down regulating voltage to achieve it, it is simply supplying 16 amps.
Hold on I might be wrong.

Edit:

It has a 3.6 Volt minimum. When I was using/measuring my 0.22 Ohm build, it was staying at 3.6 Volts...from a fresh to almost dead battery.

Did you measure voltage at the posts with a miltimeter? This would put it over it's 16 amp load, not much but still makes me curious.

 

[suspectK]

Yea... that's why I said measured. 2-Fluke1587 and an inline voltage meter... and the max current on the sx330 v2 is 20 Amps? I thought...

Edit- I've been meaning to get certain events captured on a dranetz...fancy scope. Like the voltage spikes on two occasions that have caused legs to be severed in a fiery arc... I don't know how much voltage is needed to break 26awg... I guess I'll play around with that too. I thought it would be a slow week, but I guess I'm actually having to do stuff...I mainly push buttons and twist knobs, and rarely have to record my own data- except with certain things. Yesterday we were hauling 200 pound bottles of Freon up to a roof at a factory being converted for steel production. They only made Freon insulated transformers for 4 years(1977-1981)..I wonder why. Lol.

 

[BigLungs]

Yea... that's why I said measured. 2-Fluke1587 and an inline voltage meter... and the max current on the sx330 v2 is 20 Amps? I thought...

Gotcha, I missed that part.

It draws 20 amps from the battery but only outputs a maximum of 16 amps, according to their spec sheet anyways.
Your tests show it can actually output over 16 amps, at least a small amount, and on your device.

 

[suspectK]

Well, like I said, I'll get it documented...with nice graphs. Cuz my IPV2 was also reading that same build at 0.3 Ohms.. my 510 meter was showing 0.22..and my flukes showed 0.2...but like two days later, the IPV2 was reading at 0.3 Ohms still..but my 510 and fluke decided to read at 0.3...lol. Same temp(hot) and almost same humidity(a lot)..so I dunno. It's a mystery.. I don't know if I posted about that on this or the other thread, that was only about preorder bs at that time...

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

People...is there a viable alternative to the VTC5?


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[BigLungs]

People...is there a viable alternative to the VTC5?


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For what it's worth I just started testing a couple Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A (not really 35A). I started using them a week or so ago in my IPV2.
Using the exact same dripper at the exact same resistance and same wattage setting, I am getting longer run time out of the Efest batteries over my Sony's. In fact the efests are lasting me on average 6 hours longer than the Sony's and have less visible sag in battery gauge while firing.

Take this information however you want. I am certainly not saying they are better than the Sony's as far as amp draw, but they are lasting me longer. Both brands of batteries are new as well and my Sony's are 100% legit.

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

Are these the purple ones? What about the LG? Or the VTC4?


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[BigLungs]

Are these the purple ones? What about the LG? Or the VTC4?


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Yes the purple Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A. They have multiple purple ones, and they are not all good so make sure if you get them you get the Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A.

I have not tried the LG's yet, but have tested the VTC4 & VTC5 against the Efest. The longest lasting is the Efest by 6 or so hours (with my testing)

I have also tested the AW 18650 1600mah, and while they perform just fine, they only got about half the run time of the Efest.

Again I am not saying that any battery is better than the others, just saying in this device I get significantly longer run time with the Efest's. Hopefully others can jump in with their experiences.

PS all testing was done with a single 26 gauge kanthal 0.9 ohm micro coil in a dripper at 30 watts constantly.

ETA
All of these batteries work well in the IPV2 though. All of them make it through a day for me going through 5-10ml of liquid.

 

[atroph]

I've had no issues with my VTC4. I don't sub-ohm and haven't vaped on a regular basis over 25-ish watts.

 

[suspectK]

Yes the purple Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A. They have multiple purple ones, and they are not all good so make sure if you get them you get the Efest 18650 2500 mAh 35A.

I have not tried the LG's yet, but have tested the VTC4 & VTC5 against the Efest. The longest lasting is the Efest by 6 or so hours (with my testing)

I have also tested the AW 18650 1600mah, and while they perform just fine, they only got about half the run time of the Efest.

Again I am not saying that any battery is better than the others, just saying in this device I get significantly longer run time with the Efest's. Hopefully others can jump in with their experiences.

PS all testing was done with a single 26 gauge kanthal 0.9 ohm micro coil in a dripper at 30 watts constantly.

ETA
All of these batteries work well in the IPV2 though. All of them make it through a day for me going through 5-10ml of liquid.

You just tried the lg's...

Efest 2100 mAh 30 Amp-(didn't lie on that - Sony vtc4)

Do not get the efest 20 Amp. It may be a 6 Amp cell(at the most).

I personally don't like the vtc5..they get hot around 20Amps..heat is not good for circuits, let alone a battery. I've never gotten a vtc4 hot..


Samsung 25r- there's a reason protovapor are using them now for their mods(even after the vtc5 stops being under shortages),

LG he2/efest 30 Amp- http://gotsmok.us7.list-manage.com/...e739aa22303c5e304c&id=e630da5e92&e=54ae93d719 <<<this is an old one.

Gotsmok just put an ad up for a cell with the same ratings as lg.. I'm curious if they're different.. http://gotsmok.us7.list-manage1.com...e739aa22303c5e304c&id=acfee6fb00&e=54ae93d719

Vtc4 two pack:
http://gotsmok.us7.list-manage.com/...e739aa22303c5e304c&id=594cbf70bc&e=54ae93d719

 

[ZeroOhm]

Has anyone sorted the random atomizer readings on the IPV2?

Those that have returned there units under warranty what was your reason?

 

[STEAM_P0WERED]

I guess the ipv2 is getting some upgrades.

Here is a list of improvements in the new version:

-Improved Battery Compartment Area

-Battery Compartment Held Down with 4 Screws instead of 2

-Added a Battery String to remove the Battery Easier

-Newer Look With a Thicker Shell

-New Back Cover Screws that are Stronger Hex Screws

 

[BigLungs]

I'm all for upgrades, if they really are improvements.

I am not keen at all on the fact that now instead of 2 screws there will be 4. On top of that making them 4 hex screws making it even less likely that someone will be able to change batteries when out and about. Now you have to carry a hex tool with you.

I just don't see what the big deal with using magnets instead of screws is? The cost difference between magnets and screws is negligible.

Thanks for the info STEAM!

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

Could it be that magnets may affect the functioning of the chip?


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[Tamer El-Meehy]

So far I have used the screws only once to put the battery and I have been charging it with the charging cable ever since. So I avoided the problem till now.


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[BigLungs]

It shouldn't make a difference. If they were in the same place as the screws they would be far enough away from the chip to not cause any issues.
When I first got my IPV I was curious about it because I planned to upgrade to magnets myself. I took a large neodymium magnet(bigger than the IPV itself) and held it in my hand with the IPV while I vaped for about 5 minutes. Nothing happened that shouldn't have. The device still fired accurately and measured resistance spot on.

The magnet I used is hundreds of times bigger than what would be needed to hold the door on.

I keep the same battery in mine for a few days, just using the usb to recharge, but that doesn't change the fact that it would be a much better idea to use magnets instead of screws. Some people run at much higher settings and can burn through multiple batteries a day, making screws a pain in the you know what.

On top of that, Pioneer4You knows we prefer magnets because we keep telling them, yet they keep ignoring their customers.

 

[STEAM_P0WERED]

I'm all for upgrades, if they really are improvements.

I am not keen at all on the fact that now instead of 2 screws there will be 4. On top of that making them 4 hex screws making it even less likely that someone will be able to change batteries when out and about. Now you have to carry a hex tool with you.

I just don't see what the big deal with using magnets instead of screws is? The cost difference between magnets and screws is negligible.

Thanks for the info STEAM!

When I first read that I thought they meant the inside of the battery compartment would have four screws instead of two, but your probably right, I herd something awhile back about the battery cover having more screws.