Pairing “Hohm Life” batts w regulated mod, ohms down to 0.10.

[Punk In Drublic]

@Punk In Drublic that really is a shame. Both things the topside does, but yet no stealth mode or brightness control. Go figure.

The Topside displays both battery voltage and live resistance? And holds that reading (at least the live resistance) so it can be evaluated after you vape it?

 

[greek mule]

I know that joeytech e-vic VTC mini mod displays live resistance value in TC mode.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I know that joeytech e-vic VTC mini mod displays live resistance value in TC mode.

And it holds that value for further evaluation after you vape? My Geekvape devices also display a live resistance, but I can’t friggin’ see it while I am vaping. And it resets to it’s read resistance after I have taken a draw.

 

[HigherStateD]

And it holds that value for further evaluation after you vape? My Geekvape devices also display a live resistance, but I can’t friggin’ see it while I am vaping. And it resets to it’s read resistance after I have taken a draw.

Yeah, that's how the topside works too. Live resistance while firing, then back to cold. Voltage is displayed in bypass mode, but again, drop is only shown while firing.

I am amazed that features like these are superfluous, but knowing the voltage and amperage at the coil seem necessary. SMH.

 

[greek mule]

And it holds that value for further evaluation after you vape? My Geekvape devices also display a live resistance, but I can’t friggin’ see it while I am vaping. And it resets to it’s read resistance after I have taken a draw.

It holded it if I remember well.And gradually started to drop.I have this device,maybe I'll put a TC build onto it and check again.

 

[Mooch]

Please delete

 

[greek mule]

I know that joeytech e-vic VTC mini mod displays live resistance value in TC mode.

It does it and in BP mode.

It holded it if I remember well.And gradually started to drop.I have this device,maybe I'll put a TC build onto it and check again.

I did a check with e-vic VTC mini and ss316L coil in TC and BP mode,and the resistance fluctuates when firing but when I release the fire button immediately displays cold resistance.You don't have the time after a puff to see that display.

 

[BrotherBob]

Hallelujah we made it folks! I understand it

Welcome and glad you joined.

 

[Baditude]

Mooch does a very good explanation on how battery current works in a regulated mod that even a lay person can understand.



He explains why coil resistance is irrelevant in a regulated mod. It also doesn't matter if the regulated mod is wired in series or parallel. What matters is the wattage setting you use, and the wattage each battery is capable of creating based on the amp rating of the battery.

HohmLife 36.3A 3077mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A- battery but a great one, equal to HG2

WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY on REGULATED MOD:
(Total wattage doubles using 2 batteries; Triples using 3 batteries.)

Up to 45W:

Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR

Up to 60W:

Hohm Life 18650 3000mah 20 amp CDR

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR

LG 18650HE4 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Sanyo UR18650NSX, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR

Up to 75W:

LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR

LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-24S, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR

Molicel 18650-P26A, 2600 mah 25 amp CDR

Up to 90W:

LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR

 

[TrollDragon]

I just hit the button, vape and enjoy... can't see the screen unless I vape in a mirror.

I don't run my browser in Developer mode either.

 

[DaveP]

Hello,

I had a few things I wanted to run past someone with a better understanding of battery/ohms law etc, just for the sake of peace of mind.

One is, as I understand it parallel battery set ups, you add the amps, so 2 20 amp batteries can hit 40 amps right? The batteries split the ultimate total. Similar to how you split the ultimate watts total, so 150 watts would be split to 75 watts, per battery. Do I understand that correct?

Is there any easily visible cue for determining whether a mod is series vs parallel or do you just have to find the specs? I imagine stacked is pretty obvious as far as my understanding goes because they’re physically stacked. How could I tell visually if a mod is series or parallel?

Lastly, this is my main question and I think will be answered based off the answer I get for my first question but I wanted to run it by you guys to be sure. The mod is a Vaporesso Switcher and the batteries are two Hohm Life 18650s. I recently wrapped 2 coils that ohm’d out at .12 (together) and when dividing the voltage output on the screen I got 21 so I believe that means I need to have 21 amps to use in my batteries. The batteries I’m using are essentially rated at 20A continuous, but there’s two of them so am I at my peak right there or is 40 my cut off and with this set up and build I’m at about 50% of what my batteries can handle in terms of amps?

Aside from that everything else seems in the clear as far as safety goes, I’m going to link to the batteries page with specs just incase there’s some other factor I’m unaware of.

HΩ LIFE (HOHM LIFE) 18650 (2 pack) INR+ 3.6V LI-NMC 3077MAH 30.2A INSANE HIGH DRAIN RECHARGEABLE LI-ION BATTERY - Hohm Tech

I appreciate you guys setting me straight. I know there’s safety features and all that with a regulated mod but, all things considered I’d like to not rely too heavily on that to keep things in one piece.

The diagram in the link will probably clear things up. Its all about connecting two cells in a configuration where the voltage is the same, but supplied by two cells for double the amperage. Voltage is the same, but current handling capacity (amps) doubles with two cells in parallel. It can be the same for dual or triple cells if high wattage is the intended result.

In a parallel configuration the two negative poles are connected together and the positive poles become the positive terminals that feed the electronics through individual fuses. You could also do a triple cell circuit the same way.

DIY triple 18650 box mod

 

[greek mule]

I just hit the button, vape and enjoy... can't see the screen unless I vape in a mirror.

I don't run my browser in Developer mode either.

We're in 100% agreement here.I just reffered to it academically.

 

[Dr. Seuss]

That’s a dope guitar DaveP.

So I’ve had time to think. Going by the specs on the sheet, this mod will fire as low as .05 so hypothetically I could build a .05 and as long as I don’t go above 10% less than 120 watts to fire it? It’s the 10% less than 120 that is determining the safety, and .05 is no more/less safe than a .35 or ‘whatever resistance’? That’s what we’re saying? I just want to be sure.

I’m also being slow about the series/parallel distinction. Series we would flip the batteries with one battery + being north and the other battery + being south whereas a parallel both batteries would have their + and - pointing in the same direction?

I still can’t find in clear writing whether the Switcher is series or parallel. Going by answers here I think we’re looking at series but that peace of mind factor would better settle in if I could find real clear distinct specs on paper. I’m just trying to be certain here.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

It's been said many times before and you've been given links that explain it in simple to understand terms.

Battery configuration - series / parallel and or resistance makes no difference when calculating battery amp demand using a decent regulated power device.
---> Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum

A 20a CDR cell can be used up to 60w per cell, switcher uses 2 cells = 120w.
Every switcher I've seen one battery is installed + up, one is installed + down,,, but, it makes no difference in battery amp demand / when selecting appropriate cells to use.

Using a rewrap cell is always iffy, they can and frequently do change what cell is used beneath the wrap with no warning or change in the 'specs' printed on the wrap.

 

[Hawise]

That’s a dope guitar DaveP.

So I’ve had time to think. Going by the specs on the sheet, this mod will fire as low as .05 so hypothetically I could build a .05 and as long as I don’t go above 10% less than 120 watts to fire it? It’s the 10% less than 120 that is determining the safety, and .05 is no more/less safe than a .35 or ‘whatever resistance’? That’s what we’re saying? I just want to be sure.

Yes. Well, those numbers depend on the batteries you're using, but with two 20 A batteries that's pretty much correct. I would note that your batteries will tend to work better (and longer) if you don't get too close to the limit.

It's also worth mentioning that the rules are completely different for mechs. There, series vs parallel really does matter. A lot.

I’m also being slow about the series/parallel distinction. Series we would flip the batteries with one battery + being north and the other battery + being south whereas a parallel both batteries would have their + and - pointing in the same direction?

Usually, but there are no guarantees.

I still can’t find in clear writing whether the Switcher is series or parallel. Going by answers here I think we’re looking at series but that peace of mind factor would better settle in if I could find real clear distinct specs on paper. I’m just trying to be certain here.

It should be easier to find the specs for these devices, but I'm afraid it isn't.

 

[TrollDragon]

I still can’t find in clear writing whether the Switcher is series or parallel. Going by answers here I think we’re looking at series but that peace of mind factor would better settle in if I could find real clear distinct specs on paper. I’m just trying to be certain here.

I don't see what the problem is, you put the batteries into a regulated mod as per the indicators on the battery door or sled. My OG Lost Vape Drone has both batteries going in the same direction, but that doesn't make it a parallel mod, the manufacturer can wire the battery sled any way they want as long as they indicate battery orientation for the user.

All of the commercial dual battery regulated mods that go over 100W are wired in series, which has one battery up and one down 99.9% of the time.

 

[Dr. Seuss]

@ Topwater, 10-4 I hear you. Just making sure to cover my bases.

@Hawise, I believe I’ll be staying away from the mech mods. I appreciate the heads up.

 

[Dr. Seuss]

Hey guys, I’m back.

At the risk of wearing out my welcome, I had one more question about how all this works.

My mod (Switcher) is variable wattage and doesn’t have variable voltage. What it does have is the H, M, S for you to select how quick you want your ramp up to hit. Is that the same thing as variable voltage only it’s giving you three presets? Is that volts being adjusted that’s doing that or is the mod doing something else in there?

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Hey guys, I’m back.

At the risk of wearing out my welcome, I had one more question about how all this works.

My mod (Switcher) is variable wattage and doesn’t have variable voltage. What it does have is the H, M, S for you to select how quick you want your ramp up to hit. Is that the same thing as variable voltage only it’s giving you three presets? Is that volts being adjusted that’s doing that or is the mod doing something else in there?

H, M, S equates to High, Medium and Soft preheats.

H = High preheat, meaning it will apply a said amount of power for a short duration above your prescribed setting. So if you set your wattage to 50 watts, the device may apply 60 watts for 0.5 seconds then drop to 50 watts for the remainder of your vape.

M = Medium – this should mean the device keeps your prescribed 50 watts power throughout the duration of your vape.

S = Soft – this will apply a lower power than your prescribed setting for a short duration. Example: Set to 50 watts, S preheat may only apply 40 watts for 0.5 seconds the jump to your 50 watts setting for the remainder of your vape.

I do not know the exact power to each settings and Vaporesso may have made changes with Firmware updates. PBusardo has a good review with objective measurements based on his review sample. Again, this may have changed with firmware updates.

 

[Dr. Seuss]

So you’re saying the change in ramp up is due to it just applying the wattage differently?

I was thinking it might be voltage being adjusted. What is the point of VV in a mod? I was thinking it was the drive behind the electricity and therefore might play a role in the differences between H,M and S.

I’m trying to wrap my head around why the calculation for seeing if your batteries are safe for a regulated is the same for parallel and series when the two configurations double different things (amp/voltage). One is supposed to double amps, but for the equation you double it for both set ups. (If you have two batteries I should say. All this is assuming there are two batteries)