Panzer clone shorting on switch

[Waddle]

Been using this Panzer SS mod w/o issue for a couple months now. last night I noticed that it was shorting out on the negative side of the battery. Small burn on the battery and small burn on the button. Atty is not shorting as I've checked it and its working fine on other mech mods.

I ran resistance on the mod 510 pin to case...zero. But when I run resistance on the switch to the case I get a reading on my multimeter. I assume that this is where it is shorting out. However for the life of me I can't figure out what the problem is. I have cleaned it thoroughly so there are no particulates causing a connection.

Baffled to say the least.

 

[duc916]

I saw that clone in a head shop and asked to take a look at it. The first thing I noticed in that black mod was that the threads were all painted the same as the exterior. Uh, well, that's a problem. Are your threads painted as well?

edit: sorry I missed the "SS" in your post. Maybe it's time to polish your switch with some Mothers mag polish.

Your terminology is confusing. Zero resistance (Ohms) means shorted. Sounds like you're saying zero as in it's open, but ... can't figure out your meaning.

 

[Waddle]

Sorry for the confusion, with the mod split in half I measure resistance from the center post to outer case is infinite. So yes open.

When I measure resistance from switch pin to case I get a reading .

 

[Waddle]

Gave it another thorough claening and it seems okay. Consider this closed..thank you.

 

[pancing]

I put No-ox-ID-special on the threads of mine, I've been using it for a month on a Stillare deck and a Tobh top (dropped the stillare top off a hotel balcony and my tobh was a ....ty clone that rusted). It hits like my coppers now and It hardly heats up on a .3, I also upgraded the spring to fat daddy magnets.

I know its closed but hey maybe you could use some of my advice.