Passthroughs and USB headers.

[Critter Man]

So, I was thinking about a PT for my 401 at some point. I hear that PTs tend to require a 1000mA (one amp) supply to function properly. That seems high to me. Some folks say that not all USB ports can supply that kind of power, but I suspect that is no longer true. I built my PC a year and a half ago, and I'm wondering if the USB headers are more or less likely to be putting out enough power for a PT. The mobo is an Asus M4A785TD-V EVO and it's a gaming rig, so the PSU is plenty big.

 

[Archetype]

I dunno, try it. My PT works fine off of my PC.

 

[WomanOfHeart]

If the PT is a 3.7V with an inline battery then running off the USB ports shouldn't be a problem. If they're a 5V without the inline battery, then your computer might not like it too much. I have a couple of 5V and when I plugged them into the USB ports my computer freaked out and gave me a blue screen. Once I unplugged the PT, the computer started normally. I also built my own gaming rig, so it isn't a prebuilt that I purchased.

I use a wall wart that's plugged into a surge protector now.

 

[LibertariaNate]

Most USB ports only output been 500-1000 mA. Inline batteries can help. Generally though, you'll get better performance with a wall wart that can supply the correct voltage and amperage.

 

[Critter Man]

Yeah, WomanOfHeart, it looks like the 401 PT has an inline battery. It's also a 3.7 volt. Thanks for the info

BTW, my Steam name is TOS = Critter Man. I usually play TF2 and L4D2. Always looking for fun folks to play with.

 

[Critter Man]

Thanks, LibertariaNate. I like to put numbers to things.

 

[Steelrat]

If the PT is a 3.7V with an inline battery then running off the USB ports shouldn't be a problem. If they're a 5V without the inline battery, then your computer might not like it too much. I have a couple of 5V and when I plugged them into the USB ports my computer freaked out and gave me a blue screen. Once I unplugged the PT, the computer started normally. I also built my own gaming rig, so it isn't a prebuilt that I purchased.

I use a wall wart that's plugged into a surge protector now.

Let me second the heck out of this post. Also, let me explain myself

As a computer tech/engineer (yeah, I'm a nerd) I can shed a bit of light on this. USB ports have a select amount of voltage that they produce. It varies WIDELY from manufacturer to manufacturer. It all depends on the interneal chipset they use when they produce the boards. From my experience, I have YET to see a USB port produce 1 amp, much less 2.

There are 2 main types of USB passthroughs found from suppliers. Passive and active. Passive, means no battery. Active means inline battery. If you are going to use a passthough on your computers USB port, regardless of whether or not it is USB 1.1, 2.0, or 3.0, make SURE to use an active passthrough.

An active passthough will have a voltage regulator built in that will stabilize the voltage. A passive passthough will consume as much power as it can, including making demands on the power source that the power source cannot provide, until failure.

Keep in mind the rather huge variation of atomizers, cartomizers, LR stuff, dual coil cartos etc. Each one will have specific power requirements that can really make some pretty huge demands of power. A dual-coil carto, running at 1.5 ohms can fry a standard on-board USB port when using a passive passthrough.

If you decide on using a passive passthrough, do yourself a favor and buy a $6.00 wall-wart USB power supply or a powered USB hub. Sure beats replacing a motherboard, or a whole computer.

Steelrat

 

[dormouse]

re hubs above - that means a powered USB hub

PC motherboard serial ports are only specced to provide 500ma (1/2 amp).

And M401 PTs already exist. I own a couple of manual ones from my first ecig, M401. They were just in case of emergency.

My M401 PTs do not have an inline battery. Most PTs look like that and have a battery shaped section. The battery-shaped section of the M401 PT is lightweight like it only has the switch in it.

 

[Critter Man]

Thanks, Steelrat. I double checked and the Smoore 401 PT seems to be an active. At the very least, folks have used them with PC USB ports with success. I'll try it with a wallwart that I have an output rating on first. If anything seems wrong, I can just discontinue until I get a proper wallwart.

 

[Critter Man]

Good firsthand info, dormouse!

I'm curious if you ever tried them with a PC USB port. I've got two wallwarts that put out 5V 700mA, and it won't bother me if I fry one. It's oddly hard to find info regarding PTs for 401s, but at only $8 more on my starter kit I really couldn't pass it up. Hopefully, it doesn't heat up my wallwart.

 

[sammorris]

I built a usb passthrough (passive based on Steelrat's definition) with a dual plugs usb cable. The cable has 2 usb plugs on one end. It should share the load of the passthrough. I haven't had any issue with the ports yet.

 

[LibertariaNate]

Good firsthand info, dormouse!

I'm curious if you ever tried them with a PC USB port. I've got two wallwarts that put out 5V 700mA, and it won't bother me if I fry one. It's oddly hard to find info regarding PTs for 401s, but at only $8 more on my starter kit I really couldn't pass it up. Hopefully, it doesn't heat up my wallwart.

I wouldn't bother with a wall wart that can only handle 700mA. Depending on the resistance of the atty or carto you are using, at the very least you will get degraded performance. Worst case (doesn't have a fuse) the thing could ignite (I've seen it).

 

[OaklandCA]

How about a usb hub type device the belkin i'm using says 2.7 amps. It has 5 usb ports. pretty common in most office settings.

 

[Eugene]

Let me second the heck out of this post. Also, let me explain myself

As a computer tech/engineer (yeah, I'm a nerd) I can shed a bit of light on this. USB ports have a select amount of voltage that they produce. It varies WIDELY from manufacturer to manufacturer. It all depends on the interneal chipset they use when they produce the boards. From my experience, I have YET to see a USB port produce 1 amp, much less 2.

There are 2 main types of USB passthroughs found from suppliers. Passive and active. Passive, means no battery. Active means inline battery. If you are going to use a passthough on your computers USB port, regardless of whether or not it is USB 1.1, 2.0, or 3.0, make SURE to use an active passthrough.

An active passthough will have a voltage regulator built in that will stabilize the voltage. A passive passthough will consume as much power as it can, including making demands on the power source that the power source cannot provide, until failure.

Keep in mind the rather huge variation of atomizers, cartomizers, LR stuff, dual coil cartos etc. Each one will have specific power requirements that can really make some pretty huge demands of power. A dual-coil carto, running at 1.5 ohms can fry a standard on-board USB port when using a passive passthrough.

If you decide on using a passive passthrough, do yourself a favor and buy a $6.00 wall-wart USB power supply or a powered USB hub. Sure beats replacing a motherboard, or a whole computer.

Steelrat

Hi Steelrat,

The Powered USB Hub you suggested, is it the normal hub come with 4 or 6 ports? Even we connect our PT to this hub, the hub still needed to connect to our motherboard "USB". The question is, if something going wrong. It only effected the HUB and the USB attached to the motherboard can't be effected? Thanks

 

[Randyrtx]

Most PC/Laptop USB ports are protected by circuitry intended to prevent damage to the mainboard due to overload... in theory. The more stringent versions will shutdown at 500mA. This is typically provided per port.

USB hubs with separate power adapters, on the other hand, may share a common power rail on all ports, and may provide the full rated capacity of the power supply to an individual port. The rated capacity is usually a multiple of the number of ports at 500mA per port. USB hubs also may differ in how power to the ports is activated; some require an active USB connection to a host (PC), others are fully stand-alone for power. In the former case, power is provided by the hub's power adapter, not the host port.

Overall, consider the worst case risk: would you prefer to risk your PC, or a relatively cheap USB hub or wall adapter?

 

[Randyrtx]

Nice job, very cool!

I built a usb passthrough (passive based on Steelrat's definition) with a dual plugs usb cable. The cable has 2 usb plugs on one end. It should share the load of the passthrough. I haven't had any issue with the ports yet.

 

[AttyPops]

Good Stuff. For the record, you want about 2.0 amps (2000 ma not 1000) for a direct PT (passive or active, non-battery type). I have an active 5v no battery PT that I purchased and a passive one I built.

5 volts with a 3.0 ohm atty is 1.6666 amps. Get a wall wart! The 3.x volt active in-line battery PTs ony draw about 400 ma, since it is a trickle charger and you vape from the battery, so it's fine with computers.

 

[Randyrtx]

I use a Rhino brand, 2-port, 2A wall adapter from Frys. It has a "pilot light" that turns on under load, which has saved me from burning up many cartos due to stuck passthrus.

 

[Critter Man]

I wouldn't bother with a wall wart that can only handle 700mA. Depending on the resistance of the atty or carto you are using, at the very least you will get degraded performance. Worst case (doesn't have a fuse) the thing could ignite (I've seen it).

Good point. The wallwart I was planning on using is for charging cell phones. That likely means that there are no protective measures. Well, the PT only added $8 to my order, so I still think it was worth getting. I guess I'll invest in a better wallwart. Anyone have a specific model they like that's widely available? Perhaps from Target, Wallmart, or Radio Shack?

 

[LibertariaNate]

2 amp AC to USB Adapter, ideal for Passthroughs on sale for $6.99...

Apparently not good if your PT is from V4L.