Passthroughs and USB headers.

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Steelrat

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Most PC/Laptop USB ports are protected by circuitry intended to prevent damage to the mainboard due to overload... in theory. The more stringent versions will shutdown at 500mA. This is typically provided per port.

USB hubs with separate power adapters, on the other hand, may share a common power rail on all ports, and may provide the full rated capacity of the power supply to an individual port. The rated capacity is usually a multiple of the number of ports at 500mA per port. USB hubs also may differ in how power to the ports is activated; some require an active USB connection to a host (PC), others are fully stand-alone for power. In the former case, power is provided by the hub's power adapter, not the host port.

Overall, consider the worst case risk: would you prefer to risk your PC, or a relatively cheap USB hub or wall adapter?

+1 AGREE!!

When you cats are looking around at USB hubs, make SURE they are POWERED. The unit will come WITH an ac adapter in the box. You can usually find the power supply specs by either searching for the unit via Google, or printed on the box itself.
If you think you "may" need a powered USB hub, then you do. These things are really inexpensive and very easy to find. My 7 port hub just burned up:(and I now have to buy another one. And no, it wasn't because I was over-vaping, it was just really really old.
Be careful though. I've seen "powered" USB hubs that had no adapter in the box.

Steelrat
 

AttyPops

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Oh, and CM... Glad to see you ordering a wall wart.

I have a USB 3.0 mobo with a good power supply... I still use the wall wart. I did try it (for 1 vape) with a direct PT and a 3.0 ohm atty... worked OK. I think the wall wart is better, and A LOT safer. I'm not going to stress my mobo and besides, I see no reason to tie up a USB port when a $7.00 AC adapter works with all standard outlets anywhere, computer or no computer.
 

Steelrat

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Thanks for the link, LibertariaNate!

Steelrat, there may be no AC adapter, but they are "powered" by the USB header on the mobo :lol:

That would be called a PASSIVE, not POWERED USB hub. If you are using the power from the USB port on the computer, you are STILL drawing to much energy from the port for proper 5v passthrough vaping and could possbily damage the motherboard of the computer.
Also, a powered USB hub, one that has a separate power supply, will be able to power a 5v passive passthrough even when the computer is turned off. Hence the usage of the word POWERED.
And 1 final point. A powered USB hub can be used to re-charge various batteries, as long as the batteries have a USB dongle for charging, ie: eGo, 510 etc.
 

Steelrat

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Steelrat, I was just making too subtle a joke I guess. You have some really good technical insights, thanks for your info :toast:

:toast:Cheers to you too!:2cool: I just wanted to make sure that anybody who reads this understands the difference. Noobs might take it wrong and, well, I'm sure you can guess the outcome...:evil:
 

Critter Man

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You can't make subtle tech jokes to tech people, we're too damn... technical! :lol:

I can relate. Before Critter Man, my nickname was Technical Tony :laugh:

Jukei: as I understand it, the PTs are more fussy about the resistance of the atty (in ohms). If the resistance is too low, the PT will rapidly overheat and experience what we technical folks call "catastrophic failure". This is because the atty will allow too much current (milliamps) to flow through the circuit. If you take an ordinary battery and connect the two poles with a wire (almost no resistance) what happens? It heats up FAST! Never try it with ANY battery, BTW. The batteries used in mods (the ones with a higher C, or current, rating) have a better ability to supply the higher current that LR attys consume. A PT would have to be specially built to be tolerant of higher current delivery. At this time, I am not aware of any. I am just a noob, though, so it's just my :2c:
 

Jukei

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Makes perfect sense to me, only now I'm curious about what they consider to be LR. It doesn't specify on the site about the minimum ohms that can be used and now that I think about it the LR Mega Cartos at Ikenvape don't specify exactly what ohms they are either argh...I did just order some 2.6ohm clearomizers, think they might work with it?
 

Jukei

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Nor' have I lol, I think I need to sign up for that resistance class around here. Its mind boggling just how many different types of cartos and resistances and vaping volts there are. I wouldn't even know where to begin. I just keep buying different cartos until I find the one that suits my needs and expectations perfectly, then I'll stick with that one. I have a 3.7v device right now and its all I own, but I'm not above trying something at a different voltage, especially if I get me a nice variable voltage mod, but "that's another show" :D Back to the topic at hand though, perhaps one of these veterans can help me out with what ohms is considered LR with a 3.7 volt device?
 

Critter Man

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Well, we've gone :offtopic: with this. You should probably make a post in a forum dealing with mods or your specific type of PV. That way you can lay out what you want to do and ask specific questions. I'm going the the 401, so mods aren't in my near future, but I'll probably be wondering the same things myself soon. Best of luck to you!
 

Jukei

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Haha, sorry about that, I didn't mean to derail you. Since my question was about weather or not a LR carto will blow up your passthru I thought it might be sorta relevant to the topic but I do need to start a new thread to answer the other 400 questions its looking like I'm going to have lol. Thanks very much for your help and best of luck to you too! :D
 

LibertariaNate

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Jukei & CM,

Ohm's law is your friend! :)

Volts / Resistance = Current
Volts * Current = Watts

In the 2.6 ohm example your PT's power source would need to be able to handle ~1.42 amps. (3.7 / 2.6 = 1.423)

I don't know the battery that is in the PT, but it is NOT recommended to use any battery with less than a 450mAh rating with LR attys or cartos.
 
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