Peculiar Ohm readings

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Arnie H

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Built several coils for my smok/Vision Vivi Nova's and Protank heads.

Something strange, I built a coil at 1.6 ohms. When first screwing it onto my Vamo v2 to check resistance I get a weird reading, like 5.5 ohms, but upon pressing the fire button once or twice, it goes to 1.6ohms (what it is supposed to be) and stays there until screwed off. Also noticed a bit higher initial reading (2.3 ohms) on my 2.0 ohm vision coil. Anyone know what is the cause of this behaviour? My multimeter is registering fine.
 

venemous

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Built several coils for my smok/Vision Vivi Nova's and Protank heads.

Something strange, I built a coil at 1.6 ohms. When first screwing it onto my Vamo v2 to check resistance I get a weird reading, like 5.5 ohms, but upon pressing the fire button once or twice, it goes to 1.6ohms (what it is supposed to be) and stays there until screwed off. Also noticed a bit higher initial reading (2.3 ohms) on my 2.0 ohm vision coil. Anyone know what is the cause of this behaviour? My multimeter is registering fine.

This happens to me with my MVP2 as well. I double checked my coils with a multimeter as well and they read +/- 0.2 of what I intended. Had it happen with a couple carto as well. Strange.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Sometimes, one of the two ends of the wire legs going through the bottom of the head will stick out and cause this. I was getting a similar bouncy resistance reading on one of my rebuilt coils and although I thought I'd trimmed them off closely enough, the one going through the white grommet was sticking out just by a gnat's hair. Snipped with nail clippers and all was right.
 
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awsum140

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I see the same thing with CE3s, T3 and Protanks. It seems to be a function of the center pin connecting to the lead. I usually unscrew the device and use a screw driver to twist the center pin back and forth a few times, then check again and the resistance is right where it should be, or where I expect it to be anyway. It bugs me because when I do a rebuild I am pretty meticulous about cleaning everything as clean as I can get it, but apparently oxidation happens pretty darn quickly.

My latest efforts have been much more stabile, resistance wise, now that I can CD weld zero resistance wire onto the coils. I'm using a 30ga wire for the center pin lead and that makes a great connection, not to mention the tremendous improvement in overall performance.
 
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retired1

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Get the same behavior sometimes on the SVD with my rebuilt heads. Ohm meter checks perfectly at 1.5ohms but when I slap that puppy in a tank, it sometimes reads much higher than what it really is. Usually the fire button fixes that and it starts reading properly. Sometimes, well, I chalk it up to a rotten build and toss the head back into the rebuild pile. :lol:
 

Recycled Roadkill

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Curious about your post, I just ohmed out my Kangertech coil. It's rated at 2.5 ohms. Resistance of the fluke wires and probes was at 18.1. Resistance at the coil showed 15.5. 18.1 - 15.5 = 2.6 ohms.

Now I have no idea if this is of any help to you at all but I wanted to offer my readings just in case. It's a bit difficult to get very accurate readings with a multimeter mainly due to contact surfaces and the condition of the probes, however, my multimeter was designed for air conditioning service and not electronics, per se.
 

Scarey

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Sometimes, one of the two ends of the wire legs going through the bottom of the head will stick out and cause this. I was getting a similar bouncy resistance reading on one of my rebuilt coils and although I thought I'd trimmed them off closely enough, the one going through the white grommet was sticking out just by a gnat's hair. Snipped with nail clippers and all was right.

That's why I just fatigue mine off. Bend it till it breaks. Works like a charm. I just leave my drill bit in the coil while I set the coil, so it doesn't deform.
 
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