Same problem here, I didn't get dry hit but noticed the bubble on the opening gap.
I used the clear tank since the beginning, so I don't know with the SS tank.
Penelope inconsistent
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Same problem here, I didn't get dry hit but noticed the bubble on the opening gap.
I used the clear tank since the beginning, so I don't know with the SS tank.
since i cant see with the ss tank, i dont know for sure...but with the clear windows after about 10 hits after the first fill, the gap is dry and hits start to taste a little off. i then turn the mouthpiece up and down to move the liquid and its good for another 10 hits or so till it goes empty again. im pretty sure i see a slight ID difference with the clear vs ss, the ss have a little more room for liquid to pass the flow control.
i put the ss back on now, and i dont have to touch it except when i first fill, turn the flow about 3 turns and its good till the tank is empty.
was thinking about adding a few channels around the flow control with a dremel...altho id hate to mess with perfection. wonder if it was knurled like the ody flow control if juice would find its way down in the gap a little easier.
hmmm....
I follow with great interest your comments because I think that the problem actually is.
Great idea jmarkus.
It would be nice Imeo comentase us something about it.
Great idea jmarkus.
It would be nice Imeo comentase us something about it.
I dont really know the internal diameter of clear tanks. But the proper diameter has to be at least 14,5mm. If for some reason the internal diameter of clear tanks is smaller then the liquid will not be able to flow easy. Only a user of clear tanks or kirfanis can answer to this
Guys I have two questions hoping that you can help.
1. I am not good with my hands and those wires are so tiny specially if you do not want to go to higher ohms. Thus when I twist together the resistance and non-resistance wires the joint part can be as long as 4-5mms. As this is part is quite solid I cannot wrap it around the wick but it goes down to the connector on the positive side and is adjusted into the metal tunnel on the negative (sometime the joint part is so long that this fills up the negative part). Is it ok? Won't heat up the wick on the side creating some problems? If not how do you overcome this issue? You wrap it around the wick?
2. I received my Penelope with 1mm wick. Though 3 meters of 3mm version is on the way it will take some time till it arrives. Currently I am using three wicks but this is still just 3mm in total. Here you talk about three wick of 3mm meaning I should use 9 of my 1mm. Should I try this? Do you think it will give more flavor and vapor? If yes how many of that 9 should go down till the o-ring? still just one or three?
Thanks!
1. I am not good with my hands and those wires are so tiny specially if you do not want to go to higher ohms. Thus when I twist together the resistance and non-resistance wires the joint part can be as long as 4-5mms. As this is part is quite solid I cannot wrap it around the wick but it goes down to the connector on the positive side and is adjusted into the metal tunnel on the negative (sometime the joint part is so long that this fills up the negative part). Is it ok? Won't heat up the wick on the side creating some problems? If not how do you overcome this issue? You wrap it around the wick?
2. I received my Penelope with 1mm wick. Though 3 meters of 3mm version is on the way it will take some time till it arrives. Currently I am using three wicks but this is still just 3mm in total. Here you talk about three wick of 3mm meaning I should use 9 of my 1mm. Should I try this? Do you think it will give more flavor and vapor? If yes how many of that 9 should go down till the o-ring? still just one or three?
Thanks!
i knew i saw a slight difference between the ss and clears. just took my trusty calipers out, and sure enough...the clear window ID measures 14mm and the ss ID measures 14.5mm. i guess that answers that question. bummer. guess i gotta start considering sanding the inside, but thatll cloud it up for sure. any ideas or suggestions?
2 things that can help. 1 use hemp stats and or needle nOsed pliers. I too have large clumsy hands but I can make the twists small this way. Another option is sterling silver crimp beads. They are a little finicky to learn but once you do they work great.
As for your wick they are talking about 3 wicks in the top of the channel only. Personally i can't get more then 2 to fit though.
Ok, thanks but still you have some of the joint part. Where do you put it? Twist around the wick or drive it down to the connector on the sides?
I understand the concept of three wicks my only problem is that I have 1mm wicks...
I usually fit it inside the ceramic under the wick. Sometimes I will put the negative side in the channel.
a third solution is the ready wires
Sure if they were not out of stock in Europe!
To address 1, v twist the two together tightly. Use needle pliers to help. Then take some of the excess length of the twisted wires and cut off what you don't need. You only need enough to fold back the NR and wrap over about 3-4 times. You don't need much especially if you wrap those 3-4 really close. You are only re-enforcing the joint hold.
2. 9 will be tricky to manage. But to address this and another poster who couldn't fit the third wick into the ceramic, a post by bishop in this thread with a link to a triple wick, is a must read. You essentially wrap one coil, then twist the wicks, and while twisting wrap second coil, and repeat until R wire complete. Bottom wicks get cut to stay in ceramic. Top wick travels the channel.
This process works. Works well. And it fits.
It was my fault Thanasi.The internal diameter in some tubes was about 14.2.Now i made some new clears with 14.5 inside diameter and a new ice looking
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MIt was my fault Thanasi.The internal diameter was about 14.2.Now i made some new clears with 14.5 inside diameter and a new ice looking
View attachment 121212View attachment 121213
Kir are you going to be replacing the ones that you have sent out? Coz I am having wicking probs with the ones that were sent to me ,never any problem with Steel IMEO tank.
of course.Ck the thread here please . Thank you
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/312694-penelope-clear-windows-kir-fanis-14.html
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. Thank youhttp://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/312694-penelope-clear-windows-kir-fanis-14.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I WILL say that some flavors are just better the way Imeo originally seemed to design it. Single wick. Those flavors don't seem to gunk up as often requiring a re-wick. So once the Penelope is adjusted to, it's a matter of preference as to which coil you want.
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