DAMN! It's a good thing you prefaced that with "not that destructive!" I was going to ask how often those melt down on you.
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DAMN! It's a good thing you prefaced that with "not that destructive!" I was going to ask how often those melt down on you.
only once so far and thats when my p+ was accidently firing for like five or so mins. but u never know with me and all my fiddling.
DAMN! It's a good thing you prefaced that with "not that destructive!" I was going to ask how often those melt down on you.
I wonder how those would work in Vivi Nova's and T3's. Those rubbery insulators are a PITA to get back in.
Any word on the o ring size of the cobra? I need a new one for my top cap which some how developed a tear (I bought on the classifieds here) even though I have always had a little juice on them for lube before putting the cap back on.
So got my 30 AWG Kanthal A-1 in yesterday, and finally got around to building a coil with it today.
Covered in many threads, but here's my thoughts.
32 AWG stock wire - 3/4 wrap (1.5 ohm) - couldn't ever go above 8.5 watts or I started to get the too hot top coil, metalic taste, maybe a dry hit that burned nose, type of hit, or worse, developed a short. Worked well at 8 watts, but just not quite there for some of my juices.
30 AWG - 4/5 wrap (1.3 ohm) - man this baby rocks! I've taken her all the way to 12 watts with no hotspots, no dry hits, no boiling of juice, even hand wrapped the coil tight and still no shorts. Had to petar k the 32 wire to avoid re-occuring shorts above 8 watts.
Read elsewhere I may have been overwicking with the #500 mesh and I needed to get the coils tighter on the mesh (something about boiling the juice rather than vaporizing). However, with the 32, if I went any tighter on the coils, I'd hotspot for days and burn the outer layer of mesh no matter how careful I was. The different in resistance between 30 and the mesh is just right for me. Not sure if it will work for you, but I'd suggest giving the 30 AWG wire a shot with #500 ss mesh. I used a 42mm x 50mm solid wick rolled to about 1.8-1.9 mm in diameter. Note: 42 is for the height, trim 2-3mm off once installed to perfect fit it.
Random thoughts, but figured in case you didn't read the other threads that cover this stuff in great detail, or catch some suggestions earlier in the thread, you could grab another viewpoint right here.
Edit: Oh and while the vapor isn't much different, the flavor most definitely is better.
Excuse the vaping lab mess.
Covered in many threads, but here's my thoughts.
32 AWG stock wire - 3/4 wrap (1.5 ohm) - couldn't ever go above 8.5 watts or I started to get the too hot top coil, metalic taste, maybe a dry hit that burned nose, type of hit, or worse, developed a short. Worked well at 8 watts, but just not quite there for some of my juices.
30 AWG - 4/5 wrap (1.3 ohm) - man this baby rocks! I've taken her all the way to 12 watts with no hotspots, no dry hits, no boiling of juice, even hand wrapped the coil tight and still no shorts. Had to petar k the 32 wire to avoid re-occuring shorts above 8 watts.
Read elsewhere I may have been overwicking with the #500 mesh and I needed to get the coils tighter on the mesh (something about boiling the juice rather than vaporizing). However, with the 32, if I went any tighter on the coils, I'd hotspot for days and burn the outer layer of mesh no matter how careful I was. The different in resistance between 30 and the mesh is just right for me. Not sure if it will work for you, but I'd suggest giving the 30 AWG wire a shot with #500 ss mesh. I used a 42mm x 50mm solid wick rolled to about 1.8-1.9 mm in diameter. Note: 42 is for the height, trim 2-3mm off once installed to perfect fit it.
Random thoughts, but figured in case you didn't read the other threads that cover this stuff in great detail, or catch some suggestions earlier in the thread, you could grab another viewpoint right here.
Edit: Oh and while the vapor isn't much different, the flavor most definitely is better.
Excuse the vaping lab mess.
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This is the closest someone got to oring sizes. These were not from Siam.
So got my 30 AWG Kanthal A-1 in yesterday, and finally got around to building a coil with it today.
Covered in many threads, but here's my thoughts.
32 AWG stock wire - 3/4 wrap (1.5 ohm) - couldn't ever go above 8.5 watts or I started to get the too hot top coil, metalic taste, maybe a dry hit that burned nose, type of hit, or worse, developed a short. Worked well at 8 watts, but just not quite there for some of my juices.
30 AWG - 4/5 wrap (1.3 ohm) - man this baby rocks! I've taken her all the way to 12 watts with no hotspots, no dry hits, no boiling of juice, even hand wrapped the coil tight and still no shorts. Had to petar k the 32 wire to avoid re-occuring shorts above 8 watts.
Read elsewhere I may have been overwicking with the #500 mesh and I needed to get the coils tighter on the mesh (something about boiling the juice rather than vaporizing). However, with the 32, if I went any tighter on the coils, I'd hotspot for days and burn the outer layer of mesh no matter how careful I was. The different in resistance between 30 and the mesh is just right for me. Not sure if it will work for you, but I'd suggest giving the 30 AWG wire a shot with #500 ss mesh. I used a 42mm x 50mm solid wick rolled to about 1.8-1.9 mm in diameter. Note: 42 is for the height, trim 2-3mm off once installed to perfect fit it.
Random thoughts, but figured in case you didn't read the other threads that cover this stuff in great detail, or catch some suggestions earlier in the thread, you could grab another viewpoint right here.
Edit: Oh and while the vapor isn't much different, the flavor most definitely is better.
Excuse the vaping lab mess.
Yeah. I definately prefer the 30. Although, I do sometimes take my 28 out and wrap that on the cobra too. That's vaping gangnam style.
So where did everyone go? So quiet in here you could hear your wick drop to the bottom of your tank.
They are probably camping outside Phiniac.
We are not provided extra o-rings for the top cap so I do not have any info on the size. I will see what I can find out and let you know.
So just whipped this up for another thread on ECF, and figured it was a good post for here as well.
With a solid wick and the fill screw out, I have yet to have a Cobra RBA leak. You can even turn the thing upside down and it will resist quite well. As for the top cap, it's on there pretty good. You would have to be hard on your equipment to get the cap to come off on its own.
Although I have never bagged one of these like a carto tank setup, I do just stick it in my pocket or pockets (when I carry more than one) without issue and take it out all the time.
Even with the wick out and two holes exposed, you have to shake it hard to break the surface tension to get water to pour out -- quick tank rinse out. Although once that tension is compromised, it will spill it's guts.
Here's some pics I just took to demonstrate.
Oh and that's #500 mesh if that makes any difference. Didn't use #400 long, but don't recall it leaking, although I think it did drip on that test when I used a wick with a small hole in the center.
I'd love to own one of every RBA, but since that's not in my immediate future, very happy with the Cobra thus far. Just my thoughts, YMMV.
With a solid wick and the fill screw out, I have yet to have a Cobra RBA leak. You can even turn the thing upside down and it will resist quite well. As for the top cap, it's on there pretty good. You would have to be hard on your equipment to get the cap to come off on its own.
Although I have never bagged one of these like a carto tank setup, I do just stick it in my pocket or pockets (when I carry more than one) without issue and take it out all the time.
Even with the wick out and two holes exposed, you have to shake it hard to break the surface tension to get water to pour out -- quick tank rinse out. Although once that tension is compromised, it will spill it's guts.
Here's some pics I just took to demonstrate.
Oh and that's #500 mesh if that makes any difference. Didn't use #400 long, but don't recall it leaking, although I think it did drip on that test when I used a wick with a small hole in the center.
I'd love to own one of every RBA, but since that's not in my immediate future, very happy with the Cobra thus far. Just my thoughts, YMMV.
The problem is going to be if when I get the sizes from Siam they will not use the same system as american sizes.
Just an FYI, the missing Cobras are missing no longer. We finally have them. Chris is shooting to have them on the site by tomorrow evening. I don't think it will happen. We still need to got through the box, make sure all the numbers are correct, cut the mesh and wire and update the site... I think it will be saturday. Either way keep an eye out for the email.
They'd probably give you an OD and thickness in mm. I bookmarked a site somewhere on obtaining orings. I'll have to look.
That's a good thing. Because I could hear some choice words coming from your house. DHL ***** *****. ******
Probably oringsusa.com, I've seen that one shared a lot in the GG subforum
It's a good cheap source with almost every size imaginable
Wow. Duh. It certainly couldn't be THAT easy that I had to bookmark that and pull a duh moment and forget could it? Yup. Probably.
Sorry you heard my profanity. I have stopped now though
Oh it's .... I've heard before.
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