Phoenix/Chalice Vertical Cotton Wick Setup

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Boden

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:) I went one better, Bwahahahaha

The nut and 1/4" screw are 0-80 size
 

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Dan Patrick

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I am thinking about boring the hole out in mine, anyone have any recomended diameters and what to buy to achive this? I am using a vertical SS wick in my Chalice, but I seem to have to sqonk a lot. Also I am getting shorts in my Phoenix all the time, and I am running just silica in the middle? The wire isn't touching the wall, but perhaps the positive post is? Anyone have this problem. No matter what setup I use on the Pheniox I can't get it to fire on a Kgo?
 

Boden

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I am thinking about boring the hole out in mine, anyone have any recomended diameters and what to buy to achive this? I am using a vertical SS wick in my Chalice, but I seem to have to sqonk a lot. Also I am getting shorts in my Phoenix all the time, and I am running just silica in the middle? The wire isn't touching the wall, but perhaps the positive post is? Anyone have this problem. No matter what setup I use on the Pheniox I can't get it to fire on a Kgo?

Pictures would help with the shorting question.

I've used a round needle file to ream out the air hole just a tiny bit. process: I took the top cap off filed it a bit, set my finger over the bottom to check the draw, repeat until the draw was right.

Edit: Is the Kgo protected from shorts? *Danger* if it isn't.
 
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hildicat

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I've used a needle file on the Chalice, Phoenix and ERA. Just check the draw often as you go. Its surprising how much difference just a little bit of filing makes.

Gave up on SS wick in the Chalice cause I only got about two good hits before it burned a hole in the back of my throat. Sorry, can't help with that one.
 

Njt07

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I am thinking about boring the hole out in mine, anyone have any recomended diameters and what to buy to achive this? I am using a vertical SS wick in my Chalice, but I seem to have to sqonk a lot. Also I am getting shorts in my Phoenix all the time, and I am running just silica in the middle? The wire isn't touching the wall, but perhaps the positive post is? Anyone have this problem. No matter what setup I use on the Pheniox I can't get it to fire on a Kgo?

Im having the same shorting problems on my reo and innokin itaste, my gripper vv has no problems though.
 

tobarger

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I am getting shorts in my Phoenix all the time, and I am running just silica in the middle? The wire isn't touching the wall, but perhaps the positive post is? Anyone have this problem. No matter what setup I use on the Pheniox I can't get it to fire on a Kgo?

Im having the same shorting problems on my reo and innokin itaste, my gripper vv has no problems though.

Could be that the center positive post is shorting to the threaded ring of the 510 connection
The Phoenix is known to have a sloppy positive post gasket that allows the post to move if tightened too hard

Try loosening the atomizer
Now hold down the fire button while gently tightening the atomizer until you hear the coil sizzling
Don't tighten it more than just a smidge further (if your feeling especially lucky at the moment)
 
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Razloz

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This is why I got some 510 to 510 adapters, my different PVs had issues when switching between them because of the center post. The adapter fixed all those problems, now it's just a bit taller. :)

Could be that the center positive post is shorting to the threaded ring of the 510 connection
The Phoenix is known to have a sloppy positive post gasket that allow the post to move if tightened too hard

Try loosening the atomizer
Now hold down the fire button while gently tightening the atomizer until you hear the coil sizzling
Don't tighten it more than just a smidge further (if your feeling especially lucky at the moment)
 

Dan Patrick

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Thanks guys for all the info. I slightly bent the positive connection away from the side, and it's working fine on my provari. So I guess I need to go back to the smaller silica wick and more of it on the chalice. All of these fat wick designs are closing up my draw. So could I just go to Lowe's and get a needle file?
 

Boden

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I need to get me some of those nut and screw. Where did you get yours? or would home depot have them?

I got them at a hobby shop. I suspect any hobby store that has a large selection of RC cars will have them.

This is the exact screw. Hob-Bits H826 Fillister Head Screws Size: 00-80 Length: 1/4" (5-Pack) | ModelTrainStuff.com
and nut: Hob-Bits H882 Hex Nuts Size: 0-80 (5-Pack) | ModelTrainStuff.com

Fastenall has them as well.
screw: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0146152
nut: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=70701
 
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dDubs

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I built one of these setups in my phoenix... thanks for the tutorial, hildicat! I had a SS mesh setup before, but I actually think it was wicking too fast because it wasn't producing like I think it should've. This worked great right away, one question though- how do you know when to re-drip? If it gets dry, the wick will burn. Is it just like when the flavor starts to fall off?
 

hildicat

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You'll notice a drop in flavor when it starts to dry out. For me this is usually about 2~3 tokes before the wick will burn. I've noticed I can get a decent vape with a nearly dry wick, but its running a fine line between working and burnt. I've come to realize I like a big coil around a fat, loose wick that pretty soaked. I love that snap-crackle-pop I get with this combo. In other words, I'm running my wicks pretty wet these days.
 

Rader2146

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I have a handul of clones on the way and I'm looking forward to thier arival. I've been a cartomizer only guy since the beginning. I have 2 ViVi Nova's that if rebuilt just about every known way with mixed results. Best results with cotton yarn but still not as satisfying as a Boge.

Anyone tried a vertical SS wick with cotton in the drip well as a filler material?
 
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