Please explain a "mechanical mod" to me...
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Yeah ... I wouldn't go over 10 watts with dripping atomizers like that either. (I'd probably be around 8-9 for my personal taste)
Genesis on the other hand ... I can take whatever wattage my pv can manage to dish out. (20+ watts on a fresh battery usually). If you can't supply enough juice to the coil to cool it off ... it's gonna get BAD in a hurry. Luckily you don't have a juice flow issue with a properly setup genny. End result is massive vapor, maximum flavor, and some serious nicotine intake.
Genesis on the other hand ... I can take whatever wattage my pv can manage to dish out. (20+ watts on a fresh battery usually). If you can't supply enough juice to the coil to cool it off ... it's gonna get BAD in a hurry. Luckily you don't have a juice flow issue with a properly setup genny. End result is massive vapor, maximum flavor, and some serious nicotine intake.
Hmm... Time to get a ProVari?
Interesting. Thanks for the explanation, tc.
I use mechanical mods for most of my gennys but you can get to 20 watts with a Provari too! It's definitely a huge difference once you go high wattage ... just watch out for that nic! It will bite ya on the booty in a hurry.
I didn't think a Provari could go over 15 watts. I use a mech to get high watts also since there are no safety cut offs.
Isn't the Provari limited by amps only? If so, then you should be able to achieve 20 watts.
EDIT: Nope, the Provari does in fact limit wattage (14.5). Bummer ... though 14.5 is plenty.
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ProVari isn't so much watt limited as it is amp limited. It has a fairly conservative current limit, and with the v2 electronics (also used in the 2.5) it's a little bit higher... 3 amps maybe? I think it does reach 15W, or high 14's...
That's all part of the safety circuit...
IMO, mechanicals aren't worth a crap for standard atomizers / cartomizers... You could use a kick, but that has a 10W hard limit. So I use a provari for that stuff
Where the Mechanical mod really shines is with Genesis style atomizers. Stainless Steel wicks, and low resistance coils.
The flavor you get is very clean, with a lot of vapor... The higher you get out of the sweet spot with a cloth wicked system, the more muted or burnt the flavor becomes...
So, using a low resistance genesis with a mechanical allows for a flavorful, warm vape. And as suggested you don't have to hit it very long.
It's much more comparable to smoking an actual cigarette, albeit with better flavor! Short drags, and a little bit of heat. I love it
So for my genesis atty's, mechanicals are the only way to go... For my cartos and cloth wicked devices, I use VV/VW devices around 8-10 watts.
That's all part of the safety circuit...
IMO, mechanicals aren't worth a crap for standard atomizers / cartomizers... You could use a kick, but that has a 10W hard limit. So I use a provari for that stuff
Where the Mechanical mod really shines is with Genesis style atomizers. Stainless Steel wicks, and low resistance coils.
The flavor you get is very clean, with a lot of vapor... The higher you get out of the sweet spot with a cloth wicked system, the more muted or burnt the flavor becomes...
So, using a low resistance genesis with a mechanical allows for a flavorful, warm vape. And as suggested you don't have to hit it very long.
It's much more comparable to smoking an actual cigarette, albeit with better flavor! Short drags, and a little bit of heat. I love it
So for my genesis atty's, mechanicals are the only way to go... For my cartos and cloth wicked devices, I use VV/VW devices around 8-10 watts.
RBA/Gennies on a conductive mech is probably gonna be the best vapes most people will ever have, and i'm in love with it. But maybe it's not for everybody.
I looked at Provape's specs. It does in fact limit wattage and current output. It's amp limit is 3.5, which technically speaking will get you over 20 watts on a 1.7 coil. But the chipset limits you to 14.5 watts.
Which again ... is still a pretty nice vape on a genesis.
I have begun to get what I need for the minimalist set-up... I have ordered an IGO-L dripping atomizer. I will of course try it out on my VAMO but the main reason I ordered it was for The Natural. That will be ordered soon as well. I will be using a single 18650 in The Natural... do I need a protected or un-protected, button or flat top battery? I will only get a Panasonic or AW IMR for my batteries from this point on.
I use unprotected Efest & AW IMR and Panasonic CGR hybrid batteries in my Chi Chi and haven't had any issues, using both button and flat tops.
Not sure if the protected batteries are preferred for mechanicals, but most of the folks I've seen run the same AW high drain unprotected cells in them that they use in regulated APV's....
I believe the natural has adjustable center pin so flat or button tops should work
Not sure if the protected batteries are preferred for mechanicals, but most of the folks I've seen run the same AW high drain unprotected cells in them that they use in regulated APV's....
I believe the natural has adjustable center pin so flat or button tops should work
Yes they are, as your mod doesn't provide any protection whatsoever! Please only use protected batteries in mechanical mods.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html#post2029353
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Using protected batteries and/or a fuse are not always the answer.
For those of us who are using SLR, we can easily go past 5 amps, which is a common point for protection circuits.
IMR and hybrids evolved from them are a more safe chemistry. Many people use them on their mods (both regulated and mechanical) without any issues. Just make sure you know the limitations of your battery and adjust accordingly. If you're not planning to use super low resistant coils on a RBA ... you probably aren't going to go NEAR an IMR's limits.
Usually the first sign of a battery short or one that is being over worked is HEAT. If your battery is staying cool then it's working just fine and shouldn't have issues.
For those of us who are using SLR, we can easily go past 5 amps, which is a common point for protection circuits.
IMR and hybrids evolved from them are a more safe chemistry. Many people use them on their mods (both regulated and mechanical) without any issues. Just make sure you know the limitations of your battery and adjust accordingly. If you're not planning to use super low resistant coils on a RBA ... you probably aren't going to go NEAR an IMR's limits.
Usually the first sign of a battery short or one that is being over worked is HEAT. If your battery is staying cool then it's working just fine and shouldn't have issues.
I like the last two post... answered my questions and others I hadn't thought of. I am thinking I will be at 1.0-1.5ohms in the IGO-L with 32awg and silica. I should be good to go. I will probably get a Panasonic protected hybrid 18650... I hope it will fit.
thxone:9173991 said:
Just remember that the protected battery won't work with some regulated devices. Also, if you build your coil on the Natural + Igo and have a short ... it might trip the protection circuit in the battery, rendering it useless.
Personally, id just go grab the Holocron short stop fuse. Myvaporstore had them in stock last time I looked for under $10.
This will allow you to use the same standard IMR batteries in ALL mods while giving you that extra protection with mechanical mods you might purchase. The holocron btw ... is a reusable fuse!
The other option is to build your coils and test them on your vamo first, which has short protection. Just remember, the vamo won't fire a coil that is below 1.2 ohms.
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The latter was my first thought... test the coil on the VAMO then go from there. I have some 1300mAh spinners as well that I could fire the coil on if need be. Here I go getting excited again.
fwiw, anything over 10 watts and more than 2 to 3 seconds taste burnt to me. And the second puff thereafter is cough city!
I keep reading about watts on mechanical mods... I am confused a bit. I want to do this safely with consistency as well. I'm going to be using the Natural and an IGO-L with a protected 18650 battery. I will be using 3mm silica and 28awg Kanthal. I will not be modding anything unless I really feel I need to sand down the contacts later on. So on with the questions...
3.7V battery and .8 - 1.0ohm coil... is there a formula to find out what watts I will be at? 1.1 - 1.5ohm? Will I need to worry about watts at the higher ohm's? I don't want it to be a hassle but I also don't want a ticking time bomb in my hand. What will be a safe ohm rating with the protected 18650?
3.7V battery and .8 - 1.0ohm coil... is there a formula to find out what watts I will be at? 1.1 - 1.5ohm? Will I need to worry about watts at the higher ohm's? I don't want it to be a hassle but I also don't want a ticking time bomb in my hand. What will be a safe ohm rating with the protected 18650?
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