Rebuildable Drip Atomizers taste the best for me.... can be had fairly cheap, and are pretty simple to learn if you are detail oriented. I literally got into RBAs like last week, and now I can consistently make good coils and wicks, and I know there is a slim chance my drip attys will crap out on me. Wick and wiring is dirt cheap, and its also a lot of fun!
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Rebuildable Drip Atomizers taste the best for me.... can be had fairly cheap, and are pretty simple to learn if you are detail oriented. I literally got into RBAs like last week, and now I can consistently make good coils and wicks, and I know there is a slim chance my drip attys will crap out on me. Wick and wiring is dirt cheap, and its also a lot of fun!
Ignorance is bliss.
That's not an insult... But an absolute valid description of your post.
Wattage doesn't make juice taste like crap... Wire temperature does... Mechanical and RBAs can better take advantage of that fact.
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Sent using psychic mind control powers... and Tapatalk
oh, ok, sorry
Totally blew my mind the first time I vaped a 0.6 ohm coil... I mean, theoretically... that's > 22 Watts.... I expected it to be HOT, the TH to be oppressive and the juice to be a burnt mess...
It was cool vape, full of flavor and almost no TH.
The key was the 26AWG wire... FAR thicker than any off the shelf carto or tank... and thus, it doesn't heat up like thinner wire...
It was an absolute revelation.
I was sold on SLR vaping on RBAs immediately...
Do not comment that of what you have not tried.....
assumptions spread misinformation.
This message was brought to you by a vaper that used to vape 2ohm cartos @ 10watts...
before the enlightenment of RBA's
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Been trying to rebuild the evod. I am using 32 kanthal and 2.5 mm wick. I sense a thinner wick is needed and thinner wire. My lavatube will not work as it hates the low ohm. Ditto on my ATA 2 Genesis. That is one collecting dust atm. If you or anyone knows of a cheap mech mod that is flat topped and also takes kangers without having to use an adapter that information would be much appreciated.
Your 32 Kanthal should be fine with a good 4/5 wrap. My guess is it would produce a 1.8 - 2.1 ohm coil over your wick. I use 33 Kanthal and a 3/4 wrap usually gets me a 2.0 - 2.2 ohm coil for clearo's. Most regulated PV's are not going to play nice with a low ohm setup on a Geni. That's where a lot of people use mechanical PV's. They don't care what the coil resistance is. Just be careful with them!
oh, ok, sorry
Don't be sorry! Mech mods are not for everyone. Regulated voltage is not underrated. But be aware, even with a fresh batt, you have to account for the voltage drop underload. So you're not going to get the 4.2v. Mech mods are beautiful and most can be used with a kick. I personally don't think that's optimal but I know several people who buy mechs for their beauty and than add a kick. And there's nothing wrong with that.
While I do enjoy vaping a .8 coil on a mech, I also enjoy vaping a 1.2ohm coil on a regulated device. No one person's method is best for everyone. Vape what you enjoy vaping.
I use nothing but mechanicals (Precise+, Dingo, The Natural) and RBAs (own 9 AGA-Ts) I vape at .7ohms and use MNKE 18650's and AW IMR 18350s
As for vape consistency, the MNKE put out 30amp continuous, so there is no noticeable drop-off in voltage. The ever-popular AW IMR only puts out 10amps continuous.
Juice flavour.....a genesis style RBA fitted with a U-wick wrapped at .7ohms (21 watts on a fresh battery) puts out obscene amounts of vapour and the taste surpasses any carto/clearo that I've tried
That is some serious CHOO CHOO going on. I can let it burn through an entire tank like that with NO dry hits whatsoever..it just never stops.
Arrgh. Helpnme get my rsst running half that good.
I haven't read all the responses here. Just my personal journey as to how I've ended up with mechanicals. I'll do my best to be as concise as possible....
I started vaping close to two years ago accidentally. I started with disposables, ordered a greensmoke kit, then ordered an ego kit. Finally, after seeing how well it was working, I bit the bullet and ordered a provari. Wonderful! So wonderful I now have three of them. Solid, reliable, excellent customer service. I acutally ordered a GG in that span and just didn't get it. The Provari was just so accurate and easy to use. And then I was a victim of "Bogegate".
Carto after carto was either doa or only lasted a day or two, with bad flavor along the way. I switched to a vivi nova for a bit (which was ok) before ordering a ZAP for the provari...what an eye-opener. Truly the best vape I'd ever had. But more than that, I gained a basic understanding of how these thing work. And the more I learned and experimented, the more I found myself enjoying mech mods with rbas coiled to my desired specs. And as of now, nothing else compares. My provaris/egos/cartos/clearos are dust gathering backups.
Mechanicals with an rba are the best vape experience I've found so far. So, that's why mechanical for me.
I started vaping close to two years ago accidentally. I started with disposables, ordered a greensmoke kit, then ordered an ego kit. Finally, after seeing how well it was working, I bit the bullet and ordered a provari. Wonderful! So wonderful I now have three of them. Solid, reliable, excellent customer service. I acutally ordered a GG in that span and just didn't get it. The Provari was just so accurate and easy to use. And then I was a victim of "Bogegate".
Carto after carto was either doa or only lasted a day or two, with bad flavor along the way. I switched to a vivi nova for a bit (which was ok) before ordering a ZAP for the provari...what an eye-opener. Truly the best vape I'd ever had. But more than that, I gained a basic understanding of how these thing work. And the more I learned and experimented, the more I found myself enjoying mech mods with rbas coiled to my desired specs. And as of now, nothing else compares. My provaris/egos/cartos/clearos are dust gathering backups.
Mechanicals with an rba are the best vape experience I've found so far. So, that's why mechanical for me.
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My ego twist die after 3 weeks. Spinner die after 3 days. I guess the spinner was a defective. Before died, both got very hot after a lot of chain vape. I was ...... and break open the twist. Wiring was tiny as hair line. I never seen any device using that tiny of wire except $0.99 cents china made. But wait a minute, these things are not $0.99 cents.
My current tesla also get hot but not that hot. Vaping production is a lot better. Battery last longer during the day too, but it's not fair to compare on this because it uses a separate bigger battery.
My current tesla also get hot but not that hot. Vaping production is a lot better. Battery last longer during the day too, but it's not fair to compare on this because it uses a separate bigger battery.
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Wow, I've been missing out. I fell off for a while after my battery died at a bar... a year ago. I'm going to order a kanger tank or two. Then start reading like crazy. I like to tinker with stuff.
edit- after looking at my join date, I guess it was a year and a half ago.
edit- after looking at my join date, I guess it was a year and a half ago.
I've been vaping a Mako Midi for over a year -- closer to 2, I think (I don't keep track of stuff like that). My #1 reason for a purely mechanical mod (APV these days ) is simply that when you let go of the switch, it's off. I toasted 2 Rivas in fairly quick succession, and they both failed the same way -- I hit the button and took a draw, and the regulator circuit fried itself in the ON state, so I had full battery voltage going to the coil. Only thing to do was unscrew it. The 1st one, I didn't catch right away, and I got that nice burned insulation smell.
That said, if you have an atty short out, and you're running Li-Mn batteries, you'll be pulling some serious current. But the risk of that is mitigated by the simple expedient -- as I said -- when you let off the switch, it's really off.
Now, I don't know about other regulated APVs. Maybe some have switches that completely disconnect from the battery in the off position. Those would have the same advantage, but still with the possibility that the electronics could fail. I hope that most of the regulated APVs around have better quality circuits than in my 2 Rivas. Still, with a pure mechanical, that issue is just not there.
And even if you spend some bucks on the APV to start with, you recoup that over time, because you're just buying batteries from then on. I've vaped my IMR 14500's down to 2.5V, and still had them last a year or more. I keep 4 in rotation, and use 3 or 4 a day.
Used to be, ElectronicStix in AZ carried the Mako and Megalodon, but I think these days, the only place to buy them is Moju Republic, in England. The Mako is robust, and needs little maintenance. Fully disassembling the tail switch isn't too bad. I did modify my top cap, which was simple and cheap. i have the v2, and I don't know if the v3 would benefit from the same tweak.
If a pile of money showed up, I'd be looking at a Precise from Super-T.
) is simply that when you let go of the switch, it's off. I toasted 2 Rivas in fairly quick succession, and they both failed the same way -- I hit the button and took a draw, and the regulator circuit fried itself in the ON state, so I had full battery voltage going to the coil. Only thing to do was unscrew it. The 1st one, I didn't catch right away, and I got that nice burned insulation smell.That said, if you have an atty short out, and you're running Li-Mn batteries, you'll be pulling some serious current. But the risk of that is mitigated by the simple expedient -- as I said -- when you let off the switch, it's really off.
Now, I don't know about other regulated APVs. Maybe some have switches that completely disconnect from the battery in the off position. Those would have the same advantage, but still with the possibility that the electronics could fail. I hope that most of the regulated APVs around have better quality circuits than in my 2 Rivas. Still, with a pure mechanical, that issue is just not there.
And even if you spend some bucks on the APV to start with, you recoup that over time, because you're just buying batteries from then on. I've vaped my IMR 14500's down to 2.5V, and still had them last a year or more. I keep 4 in rotation, and use 3 or 4 a day.
Used to be, ElectronicStix in AZ carried the Mako and Megalodon, but I think these days, the only place to buy them is Moju Republic, in England. The Mako is robust, and needs little maintenance. Fully disassembling the tail switch isn't too bad. I did modify my top cap, which was simple and cheap. i have the v2, and I don't know if the v3 would benefit from the same tweak.
If a pile of money showed up, I'd be looking at a Precise from Super-T.
Heya Mike JA, my e cig journey reflects your own. From
Greensmoke to Ego to Provari including a bout of Bogitis. Recently discovered through an awesome retailer, Antonia at Saturn Mans Vapor Shop in Sabastapol CA, the Cirrus Pyrex tank with a punched Boge on the Provari? Wow, it's so smooth and good, notwithstanding the fact that she also introduced me to some first class juice including......Forbidden Fruit from Jamison's ...holy crap....
But point is still coincidentally following in your footsteps, I am also now exploring the mechanical and RBA option. I'm a gizmo girl and love to tinker; so thanks for the input on the thread and thnx Mike for yours.
Greensmoke to Ego to Provari including a bout of Bogitis. Recently discovered through an awesome retailer, Antonia at Saturn Mans Vapor Shop in Sabastapol CA, the Cirrus Pyrex tank with a punched Boge on the Provari? Wow, it's so smooth and good, notwithstanding the fact that she also introduced me to some first class juice including......Forbidden Fruit from Jamison's ...holy crap....
But point is still coincidentally following in your footsteps, I am also now exploring the mechanical and RBA option. I'm a gizmo girl and love to tinker; so thanks for the input on the thread and thnx Mike for yours.
Mechs are indestructabe,sexy,no maintenance,cheap,hit harder,i have the all brass Sentinal clone for 18 bucks/RSST tank and SS cable rope wick and set for life.
SS CABLE ROPE.
18650 MODE:
SS CABLE ROPE.
18650 MODE:
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I don't know about no maintenance, if you don't clean your mechs your voltage drops are going to become inconsistent. If you have alot of them investing in a good ultrasonic cleaner makes sense.
or expired tooth brush wth dish soap, and only 5 minutes of your time...
Mech mods allow you to push the limits power output wise. I made a dual coil setup yesterday that couldn't have been more than .1 ohms (yes 0.1). It promptly lit my wicks on fire, and nearly blew my MNKE 20amp battery (60amp pulse) after I fired it for maybe 3 seconds straight.
My provari won't let me do that. Why? You'll have to ask provape. If it were up to me, I would've been endangering my life and property months ago.
My provari won't let me do that. Why? You'll have to ask provape. If it were up to me, I would've been endangering my life and property months ago.
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