All RTAs will leak if your wicks are not done right!
Please help me choose a rebuildable system.
- Thread starter colcapp
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
All RTAs will leak if your wicks are not done right!
I over-tight both things the coils heads and the oring section. How can i fix this? Buying new o rings will fix this but did i screw the coil heads by over tighten them? I will have to buy new heads?
All the videos on youtube said that 35-40 watts was the sweat spot for .5 ohms heads. And i ran my RBA to 36 watts for days and it was working perfectly and flavour was perfect too. But that RBA came with an already build in coil, so maybe im doing bad my rebuilds.
I am not talking about over-tightening the screws that hold the coils in place. I am talking about over-tightening parts that have any type of an o-ring between them. For example, most clearomizer tanks can completely be taken apart including the glass of the tank. At each end of the glass there is an o-ring that helps to keep the tank from leaking from around the glass. If you were to over-tighten the glass then you can develop a leak. Same with any other part of your tank where you see an o-ring. I only tighten all of my parts until I feel a slight resistance and then I stop. I have never experienced any type of leaks from any of the tanks I have owned (knock on wood) and I think this is one of the main reasons why people get so many leaking problems. Lots of folks assume that they have to really tighten everything so that fluid will not leak when in reality that is the WORST thing they can do.
yeah yeah i completly understand you. When i said "screw" i meant screw things up. Not the screw that tight the coils in place, lol. I did what you told me to not overtight the parts. My question is for the coils head, i mean i can buy new o rings and then i could fix the o ring issue, but as you said that i should not over tight the coil heads either, which i did... I will have to buy new coil heads?
I have leaks coming out of the airflow holes. That's not an o ring issue right? that's the coils heads? The o ring issue leaks from the glass? right?
I have leaks coming out of the airflow holes. That's not an o ring issue right? that's the coils heads? The o ring issue leaks from the glass? right?
Last edited:
there may or may not be another o ring on the bottom of the coil. again you can back that off a tad too. to see if the leaking stops, but i would put my money on your wicking of the rba section being the culprit of this leak. can you post another picture of your wicking?
I agree with Msand ... Sounds like eliquid is getting into your air ports from the wicking.
If you're willing to put up with a big tank, I'll tell you what the absolute easiest RTA to work with is.
The Squape R.
It is hands-down the easiest RTA in the world to build on. It's almost fool proof. I've built on many RTAs and RBAs, and NOTHING is as easy as the Squape R to get right. The authentic is quite expensive, but EhPro makes a fabulous clone of it.
What makes the Squape R so easy? Quite simply, the swappable deck system. The deck in the Squape R has removable pieces that are tailor made for different build types. The decks fit over the posts and snap into place. Each deck has juice channels that double as a guide groove, so you just lay your screw/drill bit/whatever you wrap your coil around into the groove, make sure the coil is in the center, and then wrap the wires around the screws and tighten them. The deck is non-conductive so you don't have to worry about shorts if your wires touch it.
Then, when you wick the coil you simply run your wick through the same groove and trim it flush with the edge of the deck. Fluff the wick a little, then wet it down with juice, and that's it. On most RTAs you have to make sure you keep your wick outside of the juice channels and if you block them then you get dry hits and burn your wick. With the Squape R you put your wicks directly into the juice channels. It's just a lot easier.
The only thing you can really get wrong is the amount of wick you run through the coil. With cotton there is an easy method to wicking. Put the atomizer with the coil on your mod, stand your mod up, and run the wick through the coil. Then tug on one end of the wick a little. The wick should be snug in the coil, but not so snug that you start dragging the mod around. The wick should pull through the coil rather than pulling the atomizer.
There are 5 separate decks, but for subohm building you're really only going to consider 3 of them.
The W Deck is the most commonly used. It has wide juice channels for thick juices and lots of wick.
The D deck is for dual coil builds. It has two airflow holes, one under each coil, and each coil has it's own juice channels as well.
The B deck works like an RBA deck. It has a well that can be filled with wicking material which sits in a pool of juice, just like an RBA. The B deck still has the guide grooves to help you mount your coil though.
Here's a few picks to show how easy this RTA is to build on and the 3 decks I just listed.
Laying the coil in place... (This is on the S deck, so it's a small coil on a toothpick. The W deck is much larger and a 3mm drill bit fits easily into the groove)
W deck coil and wicking...
The B and D decks...
The Squape R.
It is hands-down the easiest RTA in the world to build on. It's almost fool proof. I've built on many RTAs and RBAs, and NOTHING is as easy as the Squape R to get right. The authentic is quite expensive, but EhPro makes a fabulous clone of it.
What makes the Squape R so easy? Quite simply, the swappable deck system. The deck in the Squape R has removable pieces that are tailor made for different build types. The decks fit over the posts and snap into place. Each deck has juice channels that double as a guide groove, so you just lay your screw/drill bit/whatever you wrap your coil around into the groove, make sure the coil is in the center, and then wrap the wires around the screws and tighten them. The deck is non-conductive so you don't have to worry about shorts if your wires touch it.
Then, when you wick the coil you simply run your wick through the same groove and trim it flush with the edge of the deck. Fluff the wick a little, then wet it down with juice, and that's it. On most RTAs you have to make sure you keep your wick outside of the juice channels and if you block them then you get dry hits and burn your wick. With the Squape R you put your wicks directly into the juice channels. It's just a lot easier.
The only thing you can really get wrong is the amount of wick you run through the coil. With cotton there is an easy method to wicking. Put the atomizer with the coil on your mod, stand your mod up, and run the wick through the coil. Then tug on one end of the wick a little. The wick should be snug in the coil, but not so snug that you start dragging the mod around. The wick should pull through the coil rather than pulling the atomizer.
There are 5 separate decks, but for subohm building you're really only going to consider 3 of them.
The W Deck is the most commonly used. It has wide juice channels for thick juices and lots of wick.
The D deck is for dual coil builds. It has two airflow holes, one under each coil, and each coil has it's own juice channels as well.
The B deck works like an RBA deck. It has a well that can be filled with wicking material which sits in a pool of juice, just like an RBA. The B deck still has the guide grooves to help you mount your coil though.
Here's a few picks to show how easy this RTA is to build on and the 3 decks I just listed.
Laying the coil in place... (This is on the S deck, so it's a small coil on a toothpick. The W deck is much larger and a 3mm drill bit fits easily into the groove)
W deck coil and wicking...
The B and D decks...
Last edited:
You are using too much cotton. Your coil could be made a little wider too.
Definitely to much cotton. If you're struggling to pull it through the coil. Then you are using to much. When you pul it through there should be just a little bit of resistance from the coil. Also use a tooth pick to gently pull the cotton back from the juice hole. Not to much. Just so thete is room for juice to enter the head. The cotton should make a horseshoe shape around the hole.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
CompletelyAverage, that was REALLY helpful! I've been mulling over buying my first RTA, and, thanks to you, I'm going with the Squape R. One question - I can't find a site that sells it with the three different decks.
Does anybody know of a vendor that sells the Squape R clone with the three decks? Or would I have to buy an authentic to get those?
Does anybody know of a vendor that sells the Squape R clone with the three decks? Or would I have to buy an authentic to get those?
Another super easy rta is the Lemo. It is almost impossible to mess up a build on it.
Eleaf Lemo 2
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Eleaf Lemo 2
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
You might want to do a little more homework on the squape. From what I have seen (not actual use) it has tiny air holes. I don't think it will handle 20watts or more.. Just wanted to throw that out there before you make too quick of a decision. I could be wrong also, again i have not used it personally. Just the impression i got from reveiws.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
- Status
Similar threads
