Can you explain in more detail how it fired in the "off" position with the magnet(s)?
Poldiac Clone
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I have not taken my clone apart again as I want to use it for a little time before I take it apart again to see if it continues to work ok as I have it set now. I also have not taken the real one apart yet. I don't want to go too fast with this journey and make a mistake or let it shoot me a curve.
I have however done some research and found the specs for the magnets. They are 1/16 inch thick x 1/4 dia, material NdFeB, grade 52, nickel plated with a case 1 pull force of 1.47 lbs and a case 2 pull force of 4.42 lbs. Max operating temp of 176 F (80 C).
I can tell you that the button on my real one has a stronger push feel to it than the clone. I am going to order some magnets with these spec to use in my clone.
I think I remember some of you saying you replaced the connector pin in the button with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire. I think this is wrong. I checked the dia of the pin in my clone when I had it apart and it is .095. 12 gauge copper wire is .0808 dia. The 12 gauge wire, being too small, will cause the button travel to not be long enough for contact with the upper and lower screws before the magnets stop the button travel. Some real Poldiac owners have used 10 guage copper wire(dia of .1019) when their factory pin broke on them. They said they had to sand this 10 gauge down a little to use it.
I think DaVapes got most of this clone correct. I think they did not realize the need for the alignment tool and I think they used magnets that were too weak. Plus not using reverse threading on the screws and soft brass for the top cap. They also use the top oring, which is larger than the factory oring as a spacer between the "lip" that protrudes out from the upper metal switch housing and the plastic switch housing.
I have however done some research and found the specs for the magnets. They are 1/16 inch thick x 1/4 dia, material NdFeB, grade 52, nickel plated with a case 1 pull force of 1.47 lbs and a case 2 pull force of 4.42 lbs. Max operating temp of 176 F (80 C).
I can tell you that the button on my real one has a stronger push feel to it than the clone. I am going to order some magnets with these spec to use in my clone.
I think I remember some of you saying you replaced the connector pin in the button with a piece of 12 gauge copper wire. I think this is wrong. I checked the dia of the pin in my clone when I had it apart and it is .095. 12 gauge copper wire is .0808 dia. The 12 gauge wire, being too small, will cause the button travel to not be long enough for contact with the upper and lower screws before the magnets stop the button travel. Some real Poldiac owners have used 10 guage copper wire(dia of .1019) when their factory pin broke on them. They said they had to sand this 10 gauge down a little to use it.
I think DaVapes got most of this clone correct. I think they did not realize the need for the alignment tool and I think they used magnets that were too weak. Plus not using reverse threading on the screws and soft brass for the top cap. They also use the top oring, which is larger than the factory oring as a spacer between the "lip" that protrudes out from the upper metal switch housing and the plastic switch housing.
First off the alignment tool is not needed.
I first stated I used 12 but it was 14
The last ones I did were 12 and I did have to take them down to .094 as they are slightly fatter, there seems to be some confusion on these diameters.
When I first posted about using 12 It turned out to be 14 according to my wire strippers.
When I went to Home Depot and bought 12 it was in the area of .1019.
I shall look into this farther, I'm at work now and we have spools of wire and plenty of strippers so I can at least get an idea what's going on with the wire sizes.
I'm quite aware that the charts on the internet state the figures that you posted.
What I bought at Home Depot was 12 gauge non-insulated solid cooper wire, they may have made a mistake on the size but I don't think so.
So here is the wire I used to make the first pin, it's clearly marked 12 AWG on the insulation.
But when the insulation is removed it fits nicely into the stripper's 14 gauge spot and is smaller diameter than the clones original pin.
The non-insulated 12 that I bought is just slightly larger diameter than the original pin, perhaps it's measured with the insulation on in the case of the insulated wire but that makes no sense to me but it certainly appears it's what was done.
On this link scroll to the chart and to 12 (in center, yellow)http://www.dave-cushman.net/elect/wiregauge.html
Whatever the gauge I'm using ?? in the end my pins are .094
It looks like I maybe using BWG instead of AWG
And of coarse I'm using a micrometer for these figures.
I first stated I used 12 but it was 14
The last ones I did were 12 and I did have to take them down to .094 as they are slightly fatter, there seems to be some confusion on these diameters.
When I first posted about using 12 It turned out to be 14 according to my wire strippers.
When I went to Home Depot and bought 12 it was in the area of .1019.
I shall look into this farther, I'm at work now and we have spools of wire and plenty of strippers so I can at least get an idea what's going on with the wire sizes.
I'm quite aware that the charts on the internet state the figures that you posted.
What I bought at Home Depot was 12 gauge non-insulated solid cooper wire, they may have made a mistake on the size but I don't think so.
So here is the wire I used to make the first pin, it's clearly marked 12 AWG on the insulation.
But when the insulation is removed it fits nicely into the stripper's 14 gauge spot and is smaller diameter than the clones original pin.
The non-insulated 12 that I bought is just slightly larger diameter than the original pin, perhaps it's measured with the insulation on in the case of the insulated wire but that makes no sense to me but it certainly appears it's what was done.
On this link scroll to the chart and to 12 (in center, yellow)http://www.dave-cushman.net/elect/wiregauge.html
Whatever the gauge I'm using ?? in the end my pins are .094
It looks like I maybe using BWG instead of AWG
And of coarse I'm using a micrometer for these figures.
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My switch quit working and so I took it apart to fix. When I went to put it back together, I somehow lost one of the silver screws/top pin base screw? (not sure what its called). It is one of the two pieces that make contact to the switch. The part the 510 center pin screws into. Any one know where I can buy that piece? Or am I out of luck?
Really like this mod and would hate to toss it because I lost one silly screw/base/pin/thingy. lol
Really like this mod and would hate to toss it because I lost one silly screw/base/pin/thingy. lol
Here: (but a little pricey with the shipping) POLDIAC | The "Poldiac" | mmvapors.com
Why do you think the alignment tool is not needed?
MMV, the manufacter of the original Poldiac, includes it with every Poldiac purchased from them, they show it in the manual for the Poldiac and have a video on their website showing it being used to reassemble the switch head. I would not think they would go to the trouble and cost to produce and supply it if they did not see a need for it.
Dwcraig -by shortening the plastic that has a magnet glued on the inside end and the button with the signature on the outside end, with the hole for the contact pin in it, that we are replacing with copper, you know the piece I'm talking about: well if you make that too sort, cut it or grind it down to the point of grinding off that end to the grooves that the threaded pins coming from top and bottom ride in, than when Re assembled, with those grooves open on the end you grind /sand too far down the magnet will make contact with the pos pins in the same fashion as they do with the stock pin resulting in firing while in off position.
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Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I thought so too, I have one enroute... out on the high seas somewhere... lol. Thanks for your work regarding the button. I too invested in the DaVapes version. There is a cheaper on on the site but again $33 good enough in this case... With some things it doesn't matter... this isn't one of them!
hmmm with shipping, it costs as much as a new clone lol. Thank you for the link though. I really like this thing and I think I may just buy a real one now along with extra parts to make my clone work. V1 poldiacs are going on sale Friday so I might just have to get one. Thinking I could order the v1 with the subohm parts and use the stock switch mechanism from the real poldiac in the clone tube.
I thought so too, I have one enroute... out on the high seas somewhere... lol. Thanks for your work regarding the button. I too invested in the DaVapes version. There is a cheaper on on the site but again $33 good enough in this case... With some things it doesn't matter... this isn't one of them!
So far, the $33 DaVapes from Fasttech is working well for us. I configured with a kick, installed an aerotank base on a Protank 1 and gave it to my wife. After a week of constant use, there's been no problems with the switch. (Yet). Only time will tell. It does make a nice pseudo mod, being only a half inch longer than a similarly configured Nemesis clone. If it continues to perform well, I plan to order a SS version after Chinese New Year.
I have the hCigar cyc and the bottom switch on mine is crap... What have you done to fix that up? (if anything)...
For some it may make it easier but if I had one I'll sure it would go unused, it's no problem to get the plastic centered or correct it if it's not.
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sttech-more-battery-warning.html#post10903082
You might as well read the whole thread, I did a couple things in the beginning but in the end all I do is add the plastic piece from a eliquids child-proof cap and build higher the head of the screw on the button with silver bearing solder. I don't even have any of the Panasonic batteries mentioned but this allows the screw in the top for adjusting battery rattle to be way in instead of almost falling out.
I just did one of mine a couple of days ago, one more to go if I ever even take it out of the box.
I dressed her back up with FT TFGT.
I found a spare o-ring that fit the shirt perfectly.
It's a big heavy beast of a mod.
I needed a new baseball bat.
I found a spare o-ring that fit the shirt perfectly.
It's a big heavy beast of a mod.
I needed a new baseball bat.
I just received my 2nd DaVapes Poldiac clone, it was supposed to be Asmart or Infinite brand with reverse threading on the battery screws and have a silver plated battery spring and has neither, oh well.
Not even going to try it yet, adding copper pin first.
Not even going to try it yet, adding copper pin first.
Do you have any pics? Is yours a hCigar? I have no intention of hj thread my poldiac is in flushing... yea.
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Here's my ss one, yes Hcigar (probably)
Near $400 vs $54(clones)
And just to come back to topic
The DaVape twins
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Yep, designated mine as the evening vape for a few days and I have zero complaints. After the positive pin mod of course. Best $33 spent for a while.
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Cuz one is just never enough.
I want a brass Geobukseon.
A clone. I don't want to spend to spend that much on a mod.
Although, I was highly considering a JDT Stingray. But since the clone is coming...
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