Poldiac Clone

[dwcraig1]

@ tbev, after you put in the pin(s) that I sent you and still have the problem , or when you put it in do what I suggest in post #64.
It should be hitting as good or better than any mecanical that you have, mine is about the same as my brass Chi You clone, it don't get any better than that.

 

[Bmays]

Ran by the hardware store and picked up a screw that is a tad longer than the one that came with the clone. I was having to unscrew it to the point it was barely hanging on and was a danger of shorting.

Brass would have been my first choice but it was not available. This works

 

[Tbev]

Can you test your voltage drop?

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[Bmays]

Can you test your voltage drop?

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With the longer screw? I don't really obsess over voltage drop myself. I can usually tell when something is not preforming correctly.
The poldiac sat for a few days basically unused due to this.

I will say this, for me its better. I was barely making a connection before, now its hitting good.


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[Portertown]

Can you test your voltage drop?

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I have this same DeVapes Poldiac clone and did a voltage drop test on it. During the test I used a kayfun Lite with a 1.5 ohm coil and used a Sony US18650VTC4 battery. There have been no changes to the switch. The only changes is the oring on the top positive screw and the bottom spring has been replaced with a silver plated spring.
4.17 volts without the kayfun Lite
3.77 volts with the kayfun Lite
0.40 voltage drop

I have an original Poldiac Aname V2 and with the same battery and Kayfun it has .07 voltage drop.

 

[the4thpower3]

Portertown - you made me curious - so I did the standard vaper v drop test on my Davapes Poldiac (full stainless).
I have changed my spring to a gold plated brass spare I had.
I also added a few strands of NR pure silver wire in a little gap in the switch center pin contact (on the connector/contact side).

Using a Tobeco inline volt meter and my R91 at 0.89 ohms.
My new Purple 30A 2100mah Efest battery was at 4.05V (had been used a bit - not fresh off the charger).
Tested with the R91 with that 0.89 ohm coil I got 3.80V.
So 0.25 voltage drop on a subohm coil.

 

[dwcraig1]

I'd be embarrassed to say how much difficulty I had wrapping a coil at that high of ohms (1.48 ohms) anyway here's the figures:
DaVapes with 12 gauge copper pin, Sony VCT3 @ 4.21 v, measured on the screws of a dripper's post screws (not inline meter).
Same battery and atomizer use on brass Chi You clone for comparison.
Poldiac clone = 4.07 v @ 1.48 Ω
charged battery for 30 seconds
Brass Chi clone = 4.06 v
I have a self made box mod that lets me check voltage right off the battery but I for got to check it and that 1.48 Ω is gone.
Had I used an inline voltage my readings would have been higher.
Sorry, got an error here to correct, battery voltage without load was 4.21 not 4.1

 

[Bmays]

Only thing I've noticed so far is occasionally I need to wiggle my finger on the button to get good contact. Changing the contact pin to copper wire may resolve that.

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[Portertown]

The4thpower3 and dwcraig1--------- You two are getting some good voltage drop numbers on these clones. I am going to put the copper pin in the switch on mine tomorrow. I have to really push hard on my button to get mine to fire sometimes and I have found that if I bump it on the side it will work better for a while. I have not had the switch apart yet, so there may be some trash in the slot for the pin or the magnet may be loose.
I have a real Poldiac and the switch works so smooth on it and it takes nearly no effort to push it in and make full contact. I think the improving of the switch on these clones is going to be the secret to it being a very good mod.
Have you seen the other thread where I spoke of Rhodium plating applied over the silver plating. The silver plating takes a lot of effort to keep it clean so that it stays conductive. With the Rhodium plating you do not have to clean the contacts hardly ever. I found a local independent Jewelry shop that does repairs and makes some custom jewelry that can do the Rhodium plating. After I get my switch working correctly on my clone I am going to get him to plate my contacts with Rhodium. My real Poldiac has the Rhodium plated contacts.

 

[dwcraig1]

I have this same DeVapes Poldiac clone and did a voltage drop test on it. During the test I used a Kayfun Lite with a 1.5 ohm coil and used a Sony US18650VTC4 battery. There have been no changes to the switch. The only changes is the oring on the top positive screw and the bottom spring has been replaced with a silver plated spring.
4.17 volts without the Kayfun Lite
3.77 volts with the kayfun Lite
0.40 voltage drop

I have an original Poldiac Aname V2 and with the same battery and Kayfun it has .07 voltage drop.

Assuming the Vdrop is due to hr within the switch and the drop on the battery is .07 v here is what it comes down to if my calculations are near correct.
A 1.8 watt loss at the atty and around 0.7 watts of heat created within the switch.
If using something like a 0.4 ohm load these figures would change drastically

EDIT: After thinking about what I posted in regards to the heat created within the switch I believe I missed it, that just doesn't sound logical, surely if the atty has a 1.8 watt loss the switch received it.
I try pretty hard to not post misinformation but every once in awhile I get sideways.

 

[the4thpower3]

I'd be embarrassed to so how much difficulty I had wrapping a coil at that high of ohms (1.48 ohms)

LMAO!! I can't build coils with that much resistance.
The thinnest Kanthal I have is 29awg.
I really should at least get some 30awg - can always twist
Going to order some now.

- Oh, and it sounds like your results are similar to mine (considering the differential).

 

[Portertown]

Assuming the Vdrop is due to hr within the switch and the drop on the battery is .07 v here is what it comes down to if my calculations are near correct.
A 1.8 watt loss at the atty and around 0.7 watts of heat created within the switch.
If using something like a 0.4 ohm load these figures would change drastically

How about the internal resistance in the battery itself when it is under a load? These new batteries are supposed have a lot lower internal resistance than batteries of the past, so it may be very small.
I did recoiled on one of my Kayfun Lites tonight with a .95 ohm coil. I put it on the real Poldiac, using one of my Sony batteries, and did another voltage drop test with an inline tester.
Without the Kayfun it was 4.19 volts.
With the Kayfun it was reading 4.07 volts.

This Poldiac is brass, so I am sure that is helping a little bit with the voltage drop.

 

[the4thpower3]

Batteries are accountable for loss.
You are using very good batteries.
Your results are similar to jkuro's testing.
Mod Voltage Test Setup

I would like to see his results on the newest 18650 30A+2000mah+ batteries (Efest, EH, VTC4).
As I am currently using the Efest 30a 2100mah and Sony VTC4s - these are my new go-to batteries.
I was using Panny NCR PDs, Samsung 20R, and MNKE.

Interestingly - he mentions what I've always suspected and have seen in my own tests - switch contact/consistency is a big factor.

 

[dwcraig1]

How about the internal resistance in the battery itself when it is under a load? These new batteries are supposed have a lot lower internal resistance than batteries of the past, so it may be very small.
I did recoiled on one of my Kayfun Lites tonight with a .95 ohm coil. I put it on the real Poldiac, using one of my Sony batteries, and did another voltage drop test with an inline tester.
Without the Kayfun it was 4.19 volts.
With the Kayfun it was reading 4.07 volts.

This Poldiac is brass, so I am sure that is helping a little bit with the voltage drop.

The battery resistance is not applicable other than enabling high output.
Readings should be taken directly off the battery(under load) and subtracted from the readings of the mod.(under load)
My brass CHi clone has next to no loss and my DaVapes clone compares directly to it.

Keep in mind that I'm referring loss due to high resistance in the mod and not over all voltage drop.

 

[Portertown]

Batteries are accountable for loss.
You are using very good batteries.
Your results are similar to jkuro's testing.
Mod Voltage Test Setup

I would like to see his results on the newest 18650 30A+2000mah+ batteries (Efest, EH, VTC4).
As I am currently using the Efest 30a 2100mah and Sony VTC4s - these are my new go-to batteries.
I was using Panny NCR PDs, Samsung 20R, and MNKE.

Interestingly - he mentions what I've always suspected and have seen in my own tests - switch contact/consistency is a big factor.

Thanks for the link to jkuro's testing. Looks like he has put a lot of time and effort into his testing.
I agree about the switch contact/consistency.
I am looking forward to getting inside the switch on my clone and seeing if I can improve it.

 

[Tbev]

I'm positive that the switch is where most v drop is occurring, I know there is a significant amount at the pos screw to the atty as well, but it's the inconvenience of having to ... around with it to make any connection at all that really pisses me off.... But it's sooo darn pretty....

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[dwcraig1]

I'm positive that the switch is where most v drop is occurring, I know there is a significant amount at the pos screw to the atty as well, but it's the inconvenience of having to ... around with it to make any connection at all that really pisses me off.... But it's sooo darn pretty....

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No question about it, the switch on the DaVapes clone is lagging.
As far as that 510 post, use a little washer or a small thin nut as a spacer, use a piece of milk carton, ect.

 

[Portertown]

I finally took the switch head apart on my DaVapes clone today and everything looked pretty good to me. After I had it torn down, I checked each piece with my ohm meter to see if I could find a weak point. My ohm meter shows .1 ohm when you touch the ends of the two leads together. When I ohm checked each individual piece(like from one end of a screw to the other end of the screw) I was getting a reading of .1 ohm or .2 ohm. When I assembled the switch head back together I was getting an ohm reading of .2 when touching the leads to the two screws at each end and pressing the fire button. This gives a total reading of a corrected .1 ohm for the assembly. I wish I had checked this before I disassembled the switch head.
The switch works so much better now. I do not have to push it hard to get it to fire as I had to do before I took it apart.
I have very large hands and fingers and I use my thumb to press the button. I have seen if I press the button with the bottom of my thumb I do not make contact some times, however if I use the end of my thumb and let my thumb nail push the button it fires 100% of the time.
The only reason I can come up with as to why the switch works better now is I used the "line up tool" that came with my real Poldiac that holds the plastic housing in it's proper position when you tighten the bottom locking ring. I did put the larger of the orings to the top of the switch assembly. Using this tool may have not done anything to help, but I didn't change anything else??????

I did another voltage drop test and got better results too after reassembly of the switch head.
.98 ohm coil in a Kayfun Lite and a Sony US18650VTC4 battery.

4.10 volts without the Kayfun lite (battery has been used a little since charging)
3.95 volts with the Kayfun Lite
0.15 voltage drop

The only things I have done to this clone is put a silver plated spring in the bottom cap, clean all threads, use the alignment tool, open the bottom of the hole in the "shirt" for a little more clearance so the button would fully retract and put an oring under the 510 positive screw. I am now going to make an insert out of brass and replace the weak 510 female threads in the top cap and get the silver contact parts coated with Rhodium.

 

[dwcraig1]

@ Portertown, how about comparing the thickness of the two magnets of the clone to the real one as I believe the problem lies in the travel of the button ends just as contact start to make. I suspect the clone's magnets are a little thicker but have no way to determine that.

So if the button runs out of travel just as the contacts make then arcing is more easily able to start and once it does it steadily get worse.
The first few times that I was into my switch is worked good again but was short lived.
Now that I've increased the travel by a couple thousands on the button and put in a copper pin I haven't had to service it yet and it's getting plenty of use.

 

[Tbev]

I took a couple hundreds off the button on the magnet end n it helped a bit I also changed out magnets to slightly larger ones and it ended up firing in off position using magnet instead of the pin to connect, I have a spacer and one larger one stock magnet now it's the best setup and still sucks.

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