Poldiac Clone

[Tbev]

It's such an easy simple switch it's a shame they couldn't take 30 more seconds making the thing to get out to work right.... Fkn Chinese Stevie Wonder engineering....

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[NickSteel]

It's such an easy simple switch it's a shame they couldn't take 30 more seconds making the thing to get out to work right.... Fkn Chinese Stevie Wonder engineering....

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Although my switch works well, I would just as soon have a simple replaceable spring. My interest in the thing is in the flush mounted side button instead of a bottom switch. I guess a spring would be too stiff or something and magnets should last and last.

 

[pizza2me]

marking my spot as I have one on the way

 

[the4thpower3]

I have run into switch problems subohming on this. The plastic around the silver plated contact rod in the button keeps building up small amounts of plastic residue. I assume it's from it melting. I start getting misfires until it doesn't fire anymore - take it apart and find plastic buildup on that contact pin. So I scrape it off with a scalpel and it goes back to working perfectly.
The last time I did this I noticed more of a gap in the hole where the pin goes through. So I stuffed the gap with some silver NR wire.
It hasn't misfired since. But only time will tell.

Oh, as far as the magnet goes - I mentioned it before here.
When I put the switch back together - I drop the one magnet in the housing, use the switch magnet on the back of the device to make sure the drop in magnet is the right polarity. Then use another larger magnet on the back of the switch housing to hold it in place and position it while I stick the button back in.

 

[KurrptSenate]

I was going to get one when I heard about problems with the switch with sub-ohm coils

I probably wouldn't go below .7, but that's kind of the whole reason I would get one.

 

[Technonut]

There's special plastic (Peek Ketron) for sub-ohm builds:


POLDIAC | The "Poldiac" | mmvapors.com

 

[the4thpower3]

There's special plastic (Peek Ketron) for sub-ohm builds:
POLDIAC | The "Poldiac" | mmvapors.com

Yeah. Price is crazy. I know Peek isn't cheap. And shipping to the US is like $35.

I put their contact kit, solid negative post, and peek switch kit in my cart - went to check out and figured it was over $100 in all.
I'd rather buy 3 more of these clones for that price.

 

[NickSteel]

Oh, as far as the magnet goes - I mentioned it before here.
When I put the switch back together - I drop the one magnet in the housing, use the switch magnet on the back of the device to make sure the drop in magnet is the right polarity. Then use another larger magnet on the back of the switch housing to hold it in place and position it while I stick the button back in.

Thanks, that's clever. Wouldn't have thought of it!

 

[dwcraig1]

I have run into switch problems subohming on this. The plastic around the silver plated contact rod in the button keeps building up small amounts of plastic residue. I assume it's from it melting. I start getting misfires until it doesn't fire anymore - take it apart and find plastic buildup on that contact pin. So I scrape it off with a scalpel and it goes back to working perfectly.
The last time I did this I noticed more of a gap in the hole where the pin goes through. So I stuffed the gap with some silver NR wire.
It hasn't misfired since. But only time will tell.

Oh, as far as the magnet goes - I mentioned it before here.
When I put the switch back together - I drop the one magnet in the housing, use the switch magnet on the back of the device to make sure the drop in magnet is the right polarity. Then use another larger magnet on the back of the switch housing to hold it in place and position it while I stick the button back in.

It appears from the first post of this thread that you have the DaVape model.
On my DaVape clone all the contacts are silver plated brass but the pin in the middle of the switch button was stainless steel til I replaced it with copper, are you sure it's not ss like mine was?

 

[Bmays]

It appears from the first post of this thread that you have the DaVape model.
On my DaVape clone all the contacts are silver plated brass but the pin in the middle of the switch button was stainless steel til I replaced it with copper, are you sure it's not ss like mine was?

I have the DaVapes as well and I'm 99.9% sure the pin is plated "something", but not SS.

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[dwcraig1]

I have the DaVapes as well and I'm 99.9% sure the pin is plated "something", but not SS.

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I have double checked my pin that I removed as previously stated being stainless steel, it is not stainless and appears to be nickel plated brass. Now here's how I came up with the idea that it was stainless, it's reasonably magnetic.

Mine sure fires properly after being replaced with copper now.

 

[Bmays]

I have double checked my pin that I removed as previously stated being stainless steel, it is not stainless and appears to be nickel plated brass. Now here's how I came up with the idea that it was stainless, it's reasonably magnetic.

Mine sure fires properly after being replaced with copper now.

I thought it was but didn't want to sound like a smart@$$. I want to do the 12g wire trick but the wife got ...... when I was removing the kitchen outlet..(kidding).

Will have to pick some up tomorrow as I'm completely out of 12, plenty of 14g though.

I lubbed all the threads and plan on picking up a brass screw tomorrow to replace the top positive pin. Mine only works with one Atty in stock form. I think with a longer flat head brass screw and oring I'll be set.

Overall, I really like the mod. But its not a daily use mod for me.

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[NickSteel]

I understand that copper is more conductive, but should the coated brass work ok with a Protank or such?

 

[dwcraig1]

I didn't mention this but yesterday I went to make up a couple of pin for another member and realized that the first copper pin I made was with 14 gauge ( I even checked the insulation text last night at work and it said 12). When I went to strip off the insulation I used the spot on my cheap strippers that said 14 as 12 was too big.
So off to Home Depot I go and get 1' of 12 gauge solid ground wire for 69 cents.
I put a short piece in my Dremel and took it's diameter down slightly 'cause it's just a tad too big (the 12)
The figure I got with a micrometer was .099 on the original pin, I forgot but I think the 12 gauge is somewhere around .105 (thousands)

So I ended up making another pin for mine with the 12 gauge and not have a couple spares.
I think i need to edit the decimal's on them numbers, yep
Now they are right

 

[dwcraig1]

I understand that copper is more conductive, but should the coated brass work ok with a Protank or such?

The lower the ohms the more crucial the conduction of this pin becomes so unless your doing low ohms it may not be as noticable

 

[NickSteel]

Thanks. I use from 1.8 to 2.2.

 

[Tbev]

I was told that on the devapes model the groove that the posts ride in, the grooves that surround the pin that needs to be replaced with copper, that when it hearts up it expands/contracts and that filing it out a tiny bit would help. Just thought that 2 with mentioning.
@nicksteel :I totally agree, I run gennys primarily, circa 0.70hm and I like the flush mounted side button to designate where my wick is in regards to degree of tilting required. I also hate having to fidget with a safety before and after firing, I want a one handed in the dark, mod for a genny... With low voltage drop. That's about it and u was hoping this was it.

@the4thpower3- the problem I had similar to your problem say excess glue causing it to bind up and not fire however in your case you probably would have seen that and it probably is melting. Again you may want to file those grooves out a bit however I think that may lead to the button not making even contact, especially if you haven't upgraded to a copper pin.
The devapes pin is made of some cheap crazy crap that just needs to get tossed, I'm sure they could have used copper for the same price, with better results of they didn't have their heads up their assez when they designed the Clone... It's so pretty tho... That's my biggest problem.

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[Tbev]

Nick your probably OK, if it starts melting like a lot of them that's how you know it's affecting you... Usually a prob when sub ohming like @dwcraig1 said

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[dwcraig1]

The only way to get heat at the switch is to have a poor connection within the switch so with out a bad connection the plastic should hold up.

At the shop I go to they mentioned about a guy vaping his @ 0.1 Ω and the spring collapsed, which in my opinion it should have. The DaVape clone they sell the spring is not silver plated just bare steel.

I've been using mine as low as 0.4 Ω with no problems as yet with the plastics.

I just couldn't wait, I have one of the other brands in transit, I really like this mod but my brass CYC is still my favorite. Just picked up another one of those last night.

 

[tbaz]

Ok so so I had the same problems with the 510 pin, turning down when I put on the atty and no fire. The cut in protank insulator and that worked to get a fire. I have not changed out the pin in the firing button. My issue is this is the hit I am getting is way lighter that my any other mod I have. I can place the same topper on a different mod and get a great hit on everthing except I have other than the the DaVapes Poldiac.

I have played with the large screws on either side of the button to get the buttom as smooth as possible, but have to push like heck to get a fire. Even then there is an occasional misfire. I did not want to but will tear into the button but that comes next wiht the copper wire replacement.

I Noalox the contact points and threads. If it matters I am running this in the 18650 mode and no battery wobble or movement. I tried my IMRs. Sonys, efest and EH batteries all with the same hit. When I put the volt checker on it shows 4.1 and on one battery 4.2.

Other than the button any other sugestions? I really wanted this to work as I like the looks and the recessed side button.