Poldiac Clone
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Great choice. You have ordered what I think is the best mod ever made and I think you will totally enjoy it. Let us know your thoughts on it when you receive it.
I received my Poldiac Aname V2 a week ago and I have really been impressed with it. So much so, I am going to be ordering another one this weekend.
I hear they are going on sale...
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
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Oh you lucky ducky! I'm soooo tempted by the new "clothes" but held back. I can see the SS Rope Lite in my future
Poldiac Clothes | mmvapors.com
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dwcraig1 - Bragging? Me??
Okay, you got me - maybe just a tiny bit but ......... 
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Tbev - the V1s are already on sale but I opted for the V2
I received my DaVapes version last night... and of course the first thing I did was take the switch apart to replace the mystery metal pin with the copper one and of course, what happened? that's right I popped the magnet that was glued (and I use that term loosely) to the fire button and didn't have any superglue @ the house so I had to wait until today at work to fix it up...
It is a fiddly little thing isn't it? Well no worries; All is well, Just a side note please be aware that the Orbtronic 22A batts are a VERY tight squeeze. But do work... now to stop at ACE on the way home to get a #60 (is this the correct size?) o-ring and it will be complete, I really am loving the form factor! One further gripe is that which Dan alluded to... The movement of the shirt. Which I feel can/does cause the button to stay in the engaged position. My assumption is more filing/sanding. Holy hell? but hey it's still a pretty sexy thing! Particularly for the money.
It is a fiddly little thing isn't it? Well no worries; All is well, Just a side note please be aware that the Orbtronic 22A batts are a VERY tight squeeze. But do work... now to stop at ACE on the way home to get a #60 (is this the correct size?) o-ring and it will be complete, I really am loving the form factor! One further gripe is that which Dan alluded to... The movement of the shirt. Which I feel can/does cause the button to stay in the engaged position. My assumption is more filing/sanding. Holy hell? but hey it's still a pretty sexy thing! Particularly for the money.
My DaVapes clone has started misfiring now and then. Read the threads, but confused about exactly what wire to buy to make a pin. I'm pretty inept, but would like to try to make one.
Would something like this be any good, especially for the threads?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NO-OX-ID-A-...109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c8a46f2d
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But do work... now to stop at ACE on the way home to get a #60 (is this the correct size?) o-ring and it will be complete,.
I've read that a cut-off insulator from a Protank coil will also work. I'm going to try that, as the #60 o-ring is a little thick for my Protank 2.
What I did to tailor my shirt:
OK, place some medium grit Emory or sandpaper grit side up on a flat surface, with the 510 post, 510cap and shirt removed. Keep it square on the paper and work the top of the switch body in a small circular pattern, do the same to the bottom of the 510 cap with the insert installed. check for fit often. Do at your own risk, I like mine that I did and shall do the other one. We are talking about a few thousands here, just keep an eye on how much your taking off, a little needs to come off both underside of 510 cap and the top of switch body.
Just keep looking at how much more and from which piece and stop when you get there.
Finish with a finer grade paper to smooth it.
I used to true aluminum heads with this method using a large piece of plate glass and a big piece of sand paper.
The little o-ring size that I'm using on the 510 adjustable screw is SAE # A005 or 3/32" x 15/64" x 9/128"
OK, place some medium grit Emory or sandpaper grit side up on a flat surface, with the 510 post, 510cap and shirt removed. Keep it square on the paper and work the top of the switch body in a small circular pattern, do the same to the bottom of the 510 cap with the insert installed. check for fit often. Do at your own risk, I like mine that I did and shall do the other one. We are talking about a few thousands here, just keep an eye on how much your taking off, a little needs to come off both underside of 510 cap and the top of switch body.
Just keep looking at how much more and from which piece and stop when you get there.
Finish with a finer grade paper to smooth it.
I used to true aluminum heads with this method using a large piece of plate glass and a big piece of sand paper.
The little o-ring size that I'm using on the 510 adjustable screw is SAE # A005 or 3/32" x 15/64" x 9/128"
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Before trying anything else, I disassembled and cleaned the switch with alcohol. Seems to have revived it for the time being. Watched a video and was surprised how simple the switch was vs all the reviews. Did replace the #60 o-ring with the piece of protank coil insulator. Works better with my tank.
How often is it usual to have to clean the switch?
How often is it usual to have to clean the switch?
CVS sells Super Glue Gel from a couple different departments, hardware and school supplies, in the school supply dept. they have a 5 pack of small tubes of gel. I like these 'cause every time I go to use the stuff in the bigger bottle again either I have to fight it to got some more out or it's all dried up. Just saying.
On my first DaVape clone I have applied Noalox to the contacts as an experiment, messy stuff, I used very little though. Nothing to say about how good (long) it works as yet.
With this switch we have two round surfaces making contact (x2) so the surface area being contacted is extremely small, that's a lot amps for such a small spot, I expect positive results from the Noalox but it makes future cleanings a PITA
With this switch we have two round surfaces making contact (x2) so the surface area being contacted is extremely small, that's a lot amps for such a small spot, I expect positive results from the Noalox but it makes future cleanings a PITA
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I've read that you only put on a couple "dots". I have some ordered, but don't know if it is really necessary. I know cleaning the threads with alcohol really works.
This is what Noalox is for:
Anti-oxidant
Reduces galling and seizing on aluminum conduit joints
Suspended zinc particles penetrate and cut aluminum oxide
Carrier material excludes air to prevent further oxidation
Improves service life of aluminum electrical applications
That is it. Nothing else. If you have an aluminum mod, use a tiny amount on its threads. On brass and steel mods Noalox's only function is to gather dirt.
Anti-oxidant
Reduces galling and seizing on aluminum conduit joints
Suspended zinc particles penetrate and cut aluminum oxide
Carrier material excludes air to prevent further oxidation
Improves service life of aluminum electrical applications
That is it. Nothing else. If you have an aluminum mod, use a tiny amount on its threads. On brass and steel mods Noalox's only function is to gather dirt.
Yea, that's what I read as well, however some folks swear by the stuff? So; if slow turtles are slow? What are vaping turtles then? lol....
Here is the cause of folks mis-fires on this mod. Its not a mystery. I'm simply showing folks that may not know what it is and how to fix it.
Here is a picture of one of my connections after 3 days of (Evening Only) use.
(Click To Enlarge)
Sorry, My cameras are not setup for Macro Shots. But you can see the black oxidation created by the arc when the button is pressed.
This cleans off very easily (for the time being anyway) but is causes random misfires.
After cleaning, the button works with a gentle press. However it should be noted that the "gentle presses" can cause this to happen faster due to the resistance between the contacts. A nice firm, not crazy hard, press is better in the long run.
The bottom line is this clone will require constant cleaning of these contacts to keep it preforming as it should. Overall, its a decent little mod.
Here is a picture of one of my connections after 3 days of (Evening Only) use.
(Click To Enlarge)
Sorry, My cameras are not setup for Macro Shots. But you can see the black oxidation created by the arc when the button is pressed.
This cleans off very easily (for the time being anyway) but is causes random misfires.
After cleaning, the button works with a gentle press. However it should be noted that the "gentle presses" can cause this to happen faster due to the resistance between the contacts. A nice firm, not crazy hard, press is better in the long run.
The bottom line is this clone will require constant cleaning of these contacts to keep it preforming as it should. Overall, its a decent little mod.
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Was this with the copper pin replacement in the switch or the standard mystery metal?
I am a little confused by your contacts looking like that after only three days of use. The reason I say this is I have one of these DeVapes clones that I ordered on Dec 23rd from VR. I received it after Xmas, but before the new year. So I have been using mine for a month now and the contacts in my clone have not been cleaned and it is working ok. I just did a voltage drop test to see if it had degraded any from the last test. With a .98 ohm coil in a Kayfun Lite I just got a voltage drop of .16 volts.
The only mods I have made to this clone is the oring under the positive 510 screw, a silver plated spring in the end cap and I took the switch assy apart last week to check it out. The contacts at that time looked fine and I did not clean them. I did use the alignment tool that came with my original Poldiac when I put the switch head back together and to me it seemed to work smoother than before. Some say the tool is not needed, but MMV supplies it with every Poldiac. I know others have replaced the pin in their button with a copper pin, but I still use the pin that came in my clone.
With me having big hands and fingers, I have found that I can only get a full seating of the contacts if I use the end of my thumb and thumb nail when I press the button. If I forget and use the bottom of my thumb, the shirt stops me from fully pressing the button.
I am not trying to brag about my clone, I just want others to know some of these clones do work good and are pretty much trouble free.
Maybe I just got lucky with my clone and got a good one.
I wonder did DeVapes change some parts in the ones that are being sold by FT from what the parts were in the ones VR sold? I know mine came with a plain steel spring in the botton cap and I think the ones from FT have a silver plated spring. Mine also has a silver coated pin in the button and others have stated that was not the case with the clones from FT. This could be why I have not had the issues that others have had?
I am going to order one of the all Stainless Steel clones from FT and see how it compares to the one I got from VR.
Here folks is the perfect example of the need for Noalox (regardless of what you read) here's how it works: it keeps the oxygen from the spot where the arcs are occurring, might want to check the Reo threads before you discount it.
Also the sign of a bad connection.
Keep in mind that Noalox does not improve the connection it just assists in keeping it good longer.
Bmays got it spot on
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