Poldiac Clone
- Thread starter the4thpower3
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
your probably right, the damn thing is so pretty! I'm using O-Rings, not to happy with that, it's definitely better but still sub par imo, I'm just ...... BC I actually have spent quite a bit of time on the thing and I'm still not happy with it. I haven't touched it for a week, I've been busy building a bottom feeder, it's kick ...!... Maybe I'll have simmered down enough to get it going correctly when I'm done with the BF.... I'm really happy with that.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I actually like the oring at the top 510 pin,makes for a snug fit,my 510 cthreads are a tad big too but they all are with other mods,nothing too turn me off.I love this mod,best i have now.If i bought the orginals,it would cost me 200 for the tank and 250 for the Mod,with tax and shipping i lookn at over 500 bucks...got it all for 50 bucks wit free shipping and no taxes
Last edited:
The cut-off protank coil insulator worked best for me, as the o-ring was a tad thick when using a Protank 2.
Its funny,when i first git this i was peed off,the button fell off,the magnet fell off,the switch was catching on the shirt,the pin was chrome plated and would not fire good,sharp edges all over and the 510 pin was not perfect.NOW...after the small fixes,its the best Mech in the milky way galaxy.
BTW...to fix the button if it unglues is tricky,i just completey assemled the device minus the button and added a small film of crazy glue to the black delring plastic post and pressed in in the housing and held it in place for a few seconds and locked it as too keep pressure on it.Its almost impossible too fix the button any other way as its very hard too line up perfect.
BTW...to fix the button if it unglues is tricky,i just completey assemled the device minus the button and added a small film of crazy glue to the black delring plastic post and pressed in in the housing and held it in place for a few seconds and locked it as too keep pressure on it.Its almost impossible too fix the button any other way as its very hard too line up perfect.
Last edited:
I don't know if I'm blind or just stupid, but I know there's a section in this thread (or another one?) that details replacing the contact pin with an appropriately-sized bit of copper wire....right?
I'm talking about the tiny little rice-pellet sized metal bit that moves to-and-fro on the inside of the switch when you push the button. I've already had my entire button assembly apart to reglue the face of the button, so I know how much of a hassle it is.
There was some plastic flashing around the teensy-weensy part that I'm talking about, and cleaning that up fixed the random hangups I was getting out-of-the-box. I was kinda expecting that little metal bit to pop out when I was doing this and was ready to replace it with something else, but now that it's all hanging together and firing decently (albeit with a HARD press) I'm inclined to wait for detailed destructions before I take it apart again.
I'm talking about the tiny little rice-pellet sized metal bit that moves to-and-fro on the inside of the switch when you push the button. I've already had my entire button assembly apart to reglue the face of the button, so I know how much of a hassle it is.
There was some plastic flashing around the teensy-weensy part that I'm talking about, and cleaning that up fixed the random hangups I was getting out-of-the-box. I was kinda expecting that little metal bit to pop out when I was doing this and was ready to replace it with something else, but now that it's all hanging together and firing decently (albeit with a HARD press) I'm inclined to wait for detailed destructions before I take it apart again.
Replacing the pin with a piece of copper wire is a real improvement, but the switch will continue to require frequent cleanings. I use NO OX ID A-Special Conductive Grease on my mods and it helped conductivity when I applied it to the threads and contacts.
I didn't find the switch all that difficult to work with, especially if a strong magnet is used to keep the loose magnet secure when reassembling.
I do wonder how much trouble people have using and maintaining the original ones. After working with and using the clone, I can say that, although it works reasonably well now, it is heavy and somewhat cumbersome to use compared with my Nemesis clone. I haven't found the "sleeves" advantageous in any way and that they only add to the weight and diameter of the tube.
I'm not completely dissatisfied, as it is inexpensive, novel and interesting, but I wouldn't recommend it as someone's prime device. I still await someone cloning a Dingo with a full tube set.
I'm not completely dissatisfied, as it is inexpensive, novel and interesting, but I wouldn't recommend it as someone's prime device. I still await someone cloning a Dingo with a full tube set.
What about the Roller clone? No tube set though, it's telescopic.
ETS: SORRY!, I was thinking of the Vision Slip. 18350 only.
Last edited:
What about the Roller clone? No tube set though, it's telescopic.
ETS: SORRY!, I was thinking of the Vision Slip. 18350 only.
Thanks,
Yeah, I know about the Roller clone (69), but have never liked telescopic and buttons that stick out so far. And even the 69 will not hold an 18650+kick like the Poldiac and Nemesis. I'm patient and know something will occur in the seemingly endless flood of clones.
So all I need to do is pop out that little steel (?) pellet and replace it with a similarly-sized bit of copper? Is the original bit glued in there or just press-fit? Thanks heaps for the help!
The pin is not glued, just pressed in. Due to my lack of skills, a friend made one for me, but there are posts here that describe what to buy and how. It is a simple installation.
And, I don't wish to discourage you at all. With the fixes, it fires consistently and works ok. It does not have an air flow ring, so if you want to use anything that gets air through the 510 connection, you'll need an adapter. I use a protank 2 with an aerotank base.
Last edited:
No worries. I won't get discouraged until about 1/2 way through the process. THEN I'll wonder why I even bothered, heh. In fact, I will probably wait until I have to take it apart to diagnose something or clean it again. And thanks for the reminder re: using other magnets to keep the...ahhh...."interior" magnet in place.
I KNEW that order from United Nuclear would come in handy some day.
I KNEW that order from United Nuclear would come in handy some day.
I made a copper pin for my Neme clone's switch a couple of days ago, does well there also. I gave the stock one to someone who had lost theirs.
As usual, I'm off topic a "little", but does your Nemesis silver switch screw loosen by itself? Even when thoroughly tightened? Mine has started doing this after weeks of no problems.
No but it's being tight against the battery when you unscrew the switch that's unscrewing it. Mine wants to unscrew the 510 one all the time when loosening the top cap because of the same reason so I loosen the bottom cap first before removing the top cap.
Make sure that the screw isn't tightening against the little pin (because it's a little too long) instead of squarely on the end of the button.
Last edited:
FWIW, my FT (manufacturer: unknown) Nemesis clone exhibits this same behavior. Every couple weeks I just take the button assembly apart for cleaning anyway, so it's not a big deal to me.
I usually use my FT SS one without this problem. A couple days ago, I decided to try my Hcigar one again. Although the FT one has always been perfect, the Hcigar airflow doesn't work with a stock protank 2 and the switch is very rough. Both clones have the same magnets. So I put the FT switch on the Hcigar for smoothness and now the the screw loosens itself in a few hours. Will probably just give up on the Hcigar and return to the FT one. The only visible difference is the slightly better finish and almost invisible tube seams on the Hcigar. Everyone says how much better the Hcigar one is, but I just don't see it with mine, at least not in function.
Last edited:
Just received my asmart poldiac clone. Tomorrow evening I'll post pics however it is giving me some problems. Its not firing the way it should. when holding the button down it will often cut in and out as if I was pulsing it. what is the cause of this?
Make sure the 510 positive screw at the top is screwed out enough to fully make contact with your tank positive pin.
Where did you get your asmart poldiac clone from. I have the DaVapes poldiac clone that I got from VR and it is the same one as sold by FT.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
