Possible SVD 2.0 Issue

[forlani]

Hello ECF! I have been using these forums in the shadows for about 8 months and want to thank all of you for the great information and helping kick the stinkies with all the great knowledge on here. I do happen to need some advice from some of you regarding my new SVD 2.0. So here goes....

I'm new to DNA devices and been rocking my VTR itaste since I quit smoking. On my SVD 2.0 here is my setup to help with possible troubleshooting from you all. SVD 2.0, Sony VTC 5 batteries, nautilus mini 1.8 olm, Aerotank v2 with 1.8 and 0.8 coils.

Now here is the issue or maybe normal function of a DNA device. When firing my nautilus mini 1.8, I vape around normally 14watts. When at work I have very little down time and will take a quick powerful hit at 17.5-20w max. When I do this it will sometimes flash "check atomizer" at random. It seems to flash this message on the 3rd drag or so and "check atomizer" appears more frequent at the 20w setting. As I drop the wattage down it appears less frequently.When I was troubleshooting, I noticed 17-17.5w and everything else below 17w, the message never appears. At this time I was looking for a pattern. When it flashes "check atomizer" it does not stop the device from firing or anything, it will just show the message then message goes away and then fires like it should. (all in the same single button press) . I tried it on my full size nautilus and same thing as stated above. I notice when I'm in the 17.5-20 watts its pushing 6.0-6.2v. When I get the watts down to where its getting under 6.0v I noticed the message never appears except when the 1.8 olm coil is getting at least 6.0v. Just my observations. Now on my aerotank v2 1.8 olm. It says the same thing in high watts settings. So I then took my kanger sub-olm 0.8 coil and slapped it in the aero tank. Never once did i see the message in the high watt range of 17.5-20w like the other tank and coils tested above. the sub-olm 0.8 kanger dual coil in the Aerotank coil is getting well under 6.0 v and pulling more amps from my Sony battery like it should.

So is this normal DNA behavior? or is something wrong and if so I will send it back for warranty and exchange for another. i know check atomizer means the Atty isn't connecting properly. Strange it shows the message but also lets it continue to fire. You would think it would not fire when showing this not unless it could mean its telling me to turn my power down as the nautilus won't handle it. Like I said earlier, i run normally at 13-14watts max daily but in crunch times at work I crank it up on occasion for one or two drags and that's when I get this "check atomizer" shenanigans. Works flawless if i adjust the wattage to where it shows the supplied voltage is under 6.0v. Still learning about vaping everyday. Always something new to learn. Thanks to anyone that has read this and give me a pointer or two. Later ECF.

 

[alistairs]

... a quick powerful hit at 17.5-20w max. When I do this it will sometimes flash "check atomizer" at random. It seems to flash this message on the 3rd drag or so and "check atomizer" appears more frequent at the 20w setting ...ECF.

I don't have an SVD 2.0, but do use DNA30 and DNA40 devices. On those devices, "Check Atomizer" means on of three things:

1. the DNA does not detect an atomizer
2. the atomizer has shorted out
3. the atomizer resistance is incorrect for the power setting

Because it's happening on more than one topper when you are firing the device repeatedly near it's limits, but it is still firing, I would guess you're experiencing case (3). The upper voltage limit on the SVD 2.0 is 6.3V, right around where you are.

Check what resistance your device is reading. The actual resistance may be higher than 1.8 ohm - my Nautilus BVC 1.8 coils when new read 1.9+ rising to 2.1+ after a few days which would bump you right into that SVD voltage limit. Switching to a 1.6 coil should make all the difference.

 

[forlani]

Yea I got the 1.8 coil in the nautilus and it reads 1.8 and as I'm taking a drag it will go to 1.9 then 2.0 and sometimes 2.1 thus making it hit 6.2v-6.3v like you mentioned. So if i'm understanding you right, my nautilus can't handle that high of a voltage thus that's why it works without the random "check atomizer" appearing when at 17w or lower and not nothing wrong with the SVD 2.0 to warrant a return to my vendor?

So basically its flashing check atomizer because the atomizer resistance is incorrect for the high watt settings and not a shorting issue or something more serious? I did put a new 1.6 coil in the nautilus yesterday but of course its reading 1.8olms-1.9olms and still getting the check atomizer randomly but now I can get to 18watts without the atomizer message coming up. Before like I said on my original post I could only get to 17watts with no check atomizer message but at 17.5w-20w it would randomly pop up with the coil that was 1.8. When i was firing it jumped to 1.9-2.0olms thus pushing 6.0v or more. Also with my kanger subolm 0.8 coil which was sold to me by mistake at my vendor. So I had some of those laying around. I popped it in my aerotank and it never flashes "check atomizer" no matter what when pushing the device in its higher watts. Wish nautilus had some lower olm coils on the market.

One final question. Since my nautilus and aero tanks won't work well in the higher limits of the mod, would a rebuildable at 1.8olms do the same thing as these factory coils from aspire and kanger? Or would I need to focus more on lower olms like say 1.0olm-1.4olm drawing more amps to take full advantage of the SVD at 20watts? I'm not really a subolm person. If I get into rebuilding I want to stay 1.0olm or above.

Again I thank you for you help and with a little guidance I'll get to know my DNA device a lot better. All the info is soaking in my brain. God Bless.

 

[Papa Lazarou]

Yea I got the 1.8 coil in the nautilus and it reads 1.8 and as I'm taking a drag it will go to 1.9 then 2.0 and sometimes 2.1 thus making it hit 6.2v-6.3v like you mentioned. So if i'm understanding you right, my nautilus can't handle that high of a voltage thus that's why it works without the random "check atomizer" appearing when at 17w or lower and not nothing wrong with the SVD 2.0 to warrant a return to my vendor?

It sounds like the SVD 2.0 is functioning as intended.

So basically its flashing check atomizer because the atomizer resistance is incorrect for the high watt settings and not a shorting issue or something more serious? I did put a new 1.6 coil in the nautilus yesterday but of course its reading 1.8olms-1.9olms and still getting the check atomizer randomly but now I can get to 18watts without the atomizer message coming up. Before like I said on my original post I could only get to 17watts with no check atomizer message but at 17.5w-20w it would randomly pop up with the coil that was 1.8. When i was firing it jumped to 1.9-2.0olms thus pushing 6.0v or more. Also with my kanger subolm 0.8 coil which was sold to me by mistake at my vendor. So I had some of those laying around. I popped it in my aerotank and it never flashes "check atomizer" no matter what when pushing the device in its higher watts. Wish nautilus had some lower olm coils on the market.

Yes a 0.8 ohm coil is never going to increase in resistance enough to reach the volt limit on the SVD 2.0.

One final question. Since my nautilus and aero tanks won't work well in the higher limits of the mod, would a rebuildable at 1.8olms do the same thing as these factory coils from aspire and kanger? Or would I need to focus more on lower olms like say 1.0olm-1.4olm drawing more amps to take full advantage of the SVD at 20watts? I'm not really a subolm person. If I get into rebuilding I want to stay 1.0olm or above.

Again I thank you for you help and with a little guidance I'll get to know my DNA device a lot better. All the info is soaking in my brain. God Bless.

Factory coils are most likely made from nichrome. Nichrome increases in resistance as it heats up, and it varies according to the grade of nichrome. For example Nichrome 60 increases in resistance by about 5% over room temperature at 300 degrees Celsius. Nichrome 40 resistance increases by about 10% at the same temperature, and Nichrome 20 by about 14%. Nichrome 80 resistance increases by only 3% at the same temperature. The number corresponds to the amount of nickel in the alloy, and as nickel is expensive, nichrome grades with less nickel in them tend to be cheaper. If they are using the cheapest stuff, the resistance will therefore move a fair bit as it heats up.

Kanthal A1 which is what most people use with rebuildable atomizers does not change in resistance by any noticeable amount at 300 degrees Celsius. So yes, the measured resistance with a rebuildable coil made with Kanthal A1 should stay more stable than a factory coil made from cheaper Nichrome grades.

BTW, 300 degrees Celsius (572 f) is just a representative example for the sake of comparison. It's somewhat hotter than you'd really want the coil to be running at. The char point of cotton for example is around 220 degrees c, and the temperature that VG can degrade into poisonous acrolein is 280 degrees c. There are good reasons for not running too hot.

 

[forlani]

Some awesome information from you all. Really appreciate it. Thank you so much. I'll just keep my watts in the 12.5-13.5w range with my nautilus and keep the aerotank around 10 watts.

I may try out rebuilding as I do have meters and what not laying around to test built coils that I picked up sometime back but never got around to putting them to good use as I'm a busy working alot. What RBA would be a reliable/easy to start on? Preferably a unit with a single coil. Move on to dual coils once I master the single coil.