Praxis Derringer RDA
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I think it's supposed to be 22mm. That's the size of the praxis Mech anyway. It should eliminate most of the overhand on LP Grands.
I hate how much atties stick out of the mods, this looks sweet but I'm wondering where the compromise is? are the posts flimsy and weak? how does it vape?
I've been working on modifying an atty to sit deeper into a mod so what sticks out is actually a bit less than even that, looks great and feels great, next will be to fit this to a woodvil
an atty like that^^ would make this unecissary though for the most part
went from this:
to this:
I've been working on modifying an atty to sit deeper into a mod so what sticks out is actually a bit less than even that, looks great and feels great, next will be to fit this to a woodvil
an atty like that^^ would make this unecissary though for the most part
went from this:
to this:
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I hate how much atties stick out of the mods, this looks sweet but I'm wondering where the compromise is? are the posts flimsy and weak? how does it vape?
I've been working on modifying an atty to sit deeper into a mod so what sticks out is actually a bit less than even that, looks great and feels great, next will be to fit this to a woodvil
went from this:
to this:
What box is that Turbo?
yeah, billetbox. a little shorter and shallower than a grand but also a little wider.
Looks sweet Turbo and I see that you're using the modded FD 510 you did. How did you secure the 510 after you recessed it further down in the body?
the lower lip of the atty sits into a notch locking it in place. that and the door closed against the other side and the upper cap installed and it's really locked in place and all sealed up. I can then remove and install the cap from the top with the door closed and the atty stays secure but if I slide the door open and pop off the cap I can then lift the atty right out. don't want to put so many pics here. I want to try to do this to a regular reo grand with a 22mm atty I think it would work nice. also want to try to do a thin laminate of wood on the front and rear panels of a grand and mill the whole top completely flat. I did that with the wood panels on this billet box and it looks so great, I can picture a grand done the same way would look awesome. I can't do it to my only metal grand cause I made it so thin that inserts ain't gonna work on it I need another grand to play with
the lower lip of the atty sits into a notch locking it in place. that and the door closed against the other side and the upper cap installed and it's really locked in place and all sealed up. I can then remove and install the cap from the top with the door closed and the atty stays secure but if I slide the door open and pop off the cap I can then lift the atty right out. don't want to put so many pics here. I want to try to do this to a regular reo grand with a 22mm atty I think it would work nice. also want to try to do a thin laminate of wood on the front and rear panels of a grand and mill the whole top completely flat. I did that with the wood panels on this billet box and it looks so great, I can picture a grand done the same way would look awesome. I can't do it to my only metal grand cause I made it so thin that inserts ain't gonna work on it I need another grand to play with
I love the look of milling the Grand completely flat on top (will be doing another one this weekend)...I still remember the first one I did, like holy crap, what did I do...that's when I realized that Rob will sell anything...you have to drill out what's left of his 510 and press in a new one. (at the time I didn't have a bunch of trust in the FD conns.) Depending on the RDA I created and o ring well with a facing bit first....then I just said screw it and sunk the atomic completely. The big difference between you and I is I hybrid my RDA's and stay completely mech so that took some engineering (like milling a slot in the body of the Grand to accept a 7mmx.5 threaded brass plate pressed in place (I'm sure you know this but you can buy packets of various gauges if brass shim material...awesome stuff)....but that's an Atomic http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/618545-baby-grand.html ...it's an 18mm+ RDA lathed down to 18mm even (which also makes it look a little less goofy)
...but to do that with a 22mm?...that's a lot of meat you'll taking out of the tops structural...there's a lot of aluminum there so you may not have to go to wood but you'll be attacking to back side quite a bit...I'll let you do it first
I've got a project that I'm going to try and wrap up this weekend sinking an entire Magma into a Hammond 1590 plastic, until I get the confidence to go metal (which nicely keeps me out of the Reo Forum
)...it'll weaken everything quite a bit so my plan is to do the main build (using all buss bar) then potting the box with epoxy then milling out where I need for the detail work...should be a brick (I'm going side mech switch in the spirit of the forthcoming WVM)Those Billet Boxes must go pretty cheap these days eh?
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Great stuff guys, I'm reading all this and the cogs are turning and I'm starting to like the hybrid idea. Conceptually and aesthetically I like the idea of not having a big fat atty sticking out but I'll admit to you that I'm sceptical about sinking a BF dripper into a mod simply because I can see problems there from condensation buildup and eventually ending up constantly cleaning up liquid. I still see this problem with your solution but there is a way around it.
Instead of sinking the atty into a mod why not build the mod around the atty?
What do I mean by this? Well it's simple as an idea but the execution is complicated.
First off we're talking about a mod that takes one atty and one alone (preferably one that you very much like). So let's start with a fresh slate, namely the deck of your favorite atty. Starting with a piece of solid aluminum block in the general dimensions of what you want, measure your atty's deck and internal shape and then mill that on top of you block recessed enough to only take a relatively small top cap (more of a lid not a cap). Intake holes will be milled on the sides of the mod and the cap will be able to rotate in the atty recess to cut off or increase airflow.
A negative post or posts will be simply grounded to the body and the positive post will have to be centered and insulated through the middle of the deck. Then mill out the internal space of the mod so the deck is part of the mod but under you have direct access to the center post both for connection but also for liquid feeding.
I hope you see where I'm going with this.
Important thing with this is that you solve the issue with condensation as the atty is completely built in and secondly your airholes are outside the mod yet you still have air control.
I just can't see how you'll overcome condensation issues and liquid buildup if your airholes are inside the mod.
Instead of sinking the atty into a mod why not build the mod around the atty?
What do I mean by this? Well it's simple as an idea but the execution is complicated.
First off we're talking about a mod that takes one atty and one alone (preferably one that you very much like). So let's start with a fresh slate, namely the deck of your favorite atty. Starting with a piece of solid aluminum block in the general dimensions of what you want, measure your atty's deck and internal shape and then mill that on top of you block recessed enough to only take a relatively small top cap (more of a lid not a cap). Intake holes will be milled on the sides of the mod and the cap will be able to rotate in the atty recess to cut off or increase airflow.
A negative post or posts will be simply grounded to the body and the positive post will have to be centered and insulated through the middle of the deck. Then mill out the internal space of the mod so the deck is part of the mod but under you have direct access to the center post both for connection but also for liquid feeding.
I hope you see where I'm going with this.
Important thing with this is that you solve the issue with condensation as the atty is completely built in and secondly your airholes are outside the mod yet you still have air control.
I just can't see how you'll overcome condensation issues and liquid buildup if your airholes are inside the mod.
Sorry to highjack your Praxis Derringer RDA thread just had this idea of a new mod
yeah guys, I was not looking to derail this thread either, just wanted to show how this low profile atty may be similar to sinking a normal atty into a mod. I'm going to start a thread in the modders forum just for custom bottom feeders so we can play there ... it's easy for talk to go away from reo's here and I don't want to put a bunch of non reo related stuff here in the reo forum out of respect to Rob, and yeah, personally I don't think I'd be too crazy about the atty being completely in the mod and the airhole on the inside, to me an airhole is always going to be a potential leaking spot even if it never leaks it always at least has the potential to, so for me personally my goal would be to have the airholes just at outer deck height...
I have no problem with the atty sticking out a few millimeters, just makes servicing and rewicking so much easier when it can be done from the top as normal rather than the atty being completely inside, unless some sort of quick release is made to keep servicing it really easy... hell if one of my tanks needs servicing and I'm in a rush I'll just leave it home and grab a bottom feeder and go... I like the easy 123 rewicking as I normally change wicks every few days at least... on a bottom feeder I can rewick it anywhere any time, heck I've even rewicked while driving down the highway it's that easy, wouldn't want to give that up if I didn't have to
quigs, when I say recessing a 22mm into a grand I would be using an atty that has a smaller internal diameter so the part that goes through the mod itself may be only ~ 18mm or so, a double walled atty with the outer air flow ring sitting on top of the mod, not actually going into the mod but I'll save that for the other thread and captain, I love your idea of a hybrid mod but def not in an aluminum body, the atty shouldn't have any juice contact with aluminum at all, my idea is more of an atty designed to be recessed/flush mounted
... it's easy for talk to go away from reo's here and I don't want to put a bunch of non reo related stuff here in the reo forum out of respect to Rob, and yeah, personally I don't think I'd be too crazy about the atty being completely in the mod and the airhole on the inside, to me an airhole is always going to be a potential leaking spot even if it never leaks it always at least has the potential to, so for me personally my goal would be to have the airholes just at outer deck height... I have no problem with the atty sticking out a few millimeters, just makes servicing and rewicking so much easier when it can be done from the top as normal rather than the atty being completely inside, unless some sort of quick release is made to keep servicing it really easy... hell if one of my tanks needs servicing and I'm in a rush I'll just leave it home and grab a bottom feeder and go... I like the easy 123 rewicking as I normally change wicks every few days at least... on a bottom feeder I can rewick it anywhere any time, heck I've even rewicked while driving down the highway it's that easy, wouldn't want to give that up if I didn't have to
quigs, when I say recessing a 22mm into a grand I would be using an atty that has a smaller internal diameter so the part that goes through the mod itself may be only ~ 18mm or so, a double walled atty with the outer air flow ring sitting on top of the mod, not actually going into the mod but I'll save that for the other thread and captain, I love your idea of a hybrid mod but def not in an aluminum body, the atty shouldn't have any juice contact with aluminum at all, my idea is more of an atty designed to be recessed/flush mounted
since it seems that many of us wind up starting out talking about reo's but then wind up bringing all of our non reo stuff into the mix and posting non reo stuff here in reoville I have started a thread specifically for these discussions. it's here and I'd love to see input there from the captain and quigsworth and any and all other nuts like us who can't help building and modifying bottom feeders without having to intrude so much on reoville it's only because we really had no other place to discuss this stuff, well now we do here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-custom-made-bottom-feeders.html#post14632295
it's only because we really had no other place to discuss this stuff, well now we do here:http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-custom-made-bottom-feeders.html#post14632295
Long been released. It's called an IGO-M.We need this in a bottom fed version. Release date is TBA.
Magma (made flush sided, stupid AFC ring ) sunk 7 mm into the deck of my Cocobolo...not a ground breaking achievement by any stretch but if you're gonna truck with a Magma every little bit helps...btw, I had to put the door on and clamp it in place, right at the top (clamp it good) as it gets drilled out a bit as well...oh, and while I was in there I managed to shave out enough to get a 12ml bottle in there...which, if you have a Magma is mandatory.
...tip, if you're gonna play with a 7/8's Forstner bit and hardwood, take the time to clamp, then clamp, then clamp your clamps...picking a speed is a bit of a challenge, too slow and it's a little scary and too fast...burning Cocobolo...not a nice smell
This turned out better than I thought, the 7/8's Forstner is bang on for a 22mm RDA...at the very least, this is one solid unit...now I just have to make a brass DT to match the fire button.
) sunk 7 mm into the deck of my Cocobolo...not a ground breaking achievement by any stretch but if you're gonna truck with a Magma every little bit helps...btw, I had to put the door on and clamp it in place, right at the top (clamp it good) as it gets drilled out a bit as well...oh, and while I was in there I managed to shave out enough to get a 12ml bottle in there...which, if you have a Magma is mandatory....tip, if you're gonna play with a 7/8's Forstner bit and hardwood, take the time to clamp, then clamp, then clamp your clamps...picking a speed is a bit of a challenge, too slow and it's a little scary and too fast...burning Cocobolo...not a nice smell
This turned out better than I thought, the 7/8's Forstner is bang on for a 22mm RDA...at the very least, this is one solid unit...now I just have to make a brass DT to match the fire button.
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