Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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HappiVappi

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moresalt

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Now I'm stoked. I got the internals done for my first GDNA and waiting for the paint to dry on the button. Since I used a dna from a previous mod and considering that I heated it up pretty badly, I wanted to see if it still fires up. I put a battery in and connected the internal top cap and viola! It breathes! Up/ down buttons work fine, fire button causes "check atomizer" (expected since I don't have the 510 put together). This is looking good, so far. Everything is done so far except the final bit of assembling of the top cap & bottle.
 

gdeal

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DejayRezme

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    Just in case anybody is interested, Yihi just released this. Their new chip, SX350 mini. Temperature controlled.

    Please note that the yihi chip is NOT temp controlled or protected but simply a "joule counter" (total energy). They basically sum up the power they have put into the coil and limit it, but they have to make big assumptions about airflow, coil size, juice etc. It's nothing like the DNA40. This is kind of ....ty of Yihi to try to ride on the temp control bandwagon, selling that feature and then vapers will be like "duh I have this but it doesn't work" while it's a really great innovation if done right. Hope Yihi will come with a real temp control chip that works with nickel and titanium / stainless steel wire as well.
     

    calpis

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    Here's my Sculpteo aluminide parts. I actually don't mind the poor resolution of the print but that's just me.

    U3IiQFY.jpg
     

    Texaslimo

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    painting questions:
    notes: My current intent with respect to the internal parts, is to only clear coat to protect from grime, etc. With respect to the exterior, I will paint and clear coat.
    1. I picked up some rustoleum metallic blue. How and what do I use to cover this paint to protect it without losing the metallic aspect? That Triumph blue would have been a perfect color choice, but it was just too rich for my blood.
    2. On an impulse I also picked up a can of rustoleum rubberized paintable undercoating. I have no idea what thickness this might come out to be, but I am the curious sort. Do you think it could be used successfully as an undercoating for #1 above? I am concerned that anything thick enough to be considered 'rubberized' might well also be thick enough to throw these close tolerances out of whack.
     

    Kentastic

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    Is it just alumide that is having problems? I received my WSF pieces today from Sculpteo and so far, everything looks fine. I have not put anything under a microscope yet.

    The Alumide internals were pretty obviously bad as soon as I took it out of the bag. Glad to hear your WSF internals were fine. The body and top cap were fine. A little rough around the edges, but a little sanding and it looks great. Sculpteo, gave me credit for the horrible Alumide internals, so everything will hopefully work out in the end.

    My second polished white Peko arrived from Sculpteo and this one was actually a little loose. Actually I should say that everything slid together without a problem. I would have actually preferred it to be a little tight so it would stay tight, but luckily GDeal added the magnets to the model so I shouldn't have any problems.

    Ken
     

    Kentastic

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    Here's my Sculpteo aluminide parts. I actually don't mind the poor resolution of the print but that's just me.

    U3IiQFY.jpg

    That looks about how mine came. Like I said a little rough, but not too bad at all. It was the internals that were horrible on mine. So bad they were brittle and breaking all over the place.
     
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