Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[Alexander Mundy]

I love my mod. Paint not holding up well after a lot of use, but I been using nothing but this mod.

Form factor fantastic. Easy to maintain, battery life is fantastic compared to my mechs.

With my mechs I cycled 6 batteries through out the day. Only doing 2 to 3.

I vape .6 30 watts.

Egad! What batteries are you using and how many ml per day?

 

[T1lVl]

Vtc4 umm. I go through a lit and have actually slowed down.

My nic is 1mg so been adjusting to that. So like 12 to 18

 

[Rossum]

I love my mod.

Ditto. It and one of my dibis have accounted 90% or more of my vaping since I finished it.

Paint not holding up well after a lot of use, but I been using nothing but this mod.

I'm glad I only went with some clear sealer. Mine (black top-cap, blue body, alumide trim ring) looks as good as the day I finished it.

This is prolly the most stealth bottom feed DNA mod you'll ever find, and not really that tough to build, this was actually my first DIY mod

It was my first DIY mod as well, but I've been pretty handy with a soldering iron for nearly 40 years, so that part didn't faze me at all.

 

[Rossum]

So ... congrats for all of you guys. I'm really excited, but I am overseas. It is impossible to get all the stuff listed (yes I am hinting for someone to assemble one for me and send it to me )

Shapeways ships to the EU for a pretty reasonable flat rate.

As for all the miscellaneous small parts, maybe someone will run a coop for a "Parts Kit".

Have you got a DNA already?

 

[gdeal]

This is my mod with the 3.1 internals going on three weeks of non-stop vaping. The shell is about two months old from my previous v3.0. I only have slight scuff marks on the white internals from the juice bottle and battery change outs. This shell has the Krylon Matte finish. It has gone with me everywhere. Rain...shine, mud...beach, bars.... high speed chases...

 

[T1lVl]

Dual coil 28g .6 30 watts

 

[KurrptSenate]

I'm picking up what you're putting down Gdeal

finished my homemade OKR box mod. Building one for my brother this week, then another for me in the 1590G

then i need to make 2 raptor box mods

then maybe 2 more

then definitely building this guy lol. he might move up on this list as Im pretty excited

 

[BobC]

Once you build this, you'll put down the rest, (c'ept for the Dibi)

 

[gdeal]

I'm picking up what you're putting down Gdeal

finished my homemade OKR box mod. Building one for my brother this week, then another for me in the 1590G

then i need to make 2 raptor box mods

then maybe 2 more

then definitely building this guy lol. he might move up on this list as Im pretty excited

Sounds like you are cranking out mods....I would reconsider the prioritization of projects though...

1590G vs V3.1

 

[Alexander Mundy]

 

[Cool_Breeze]

This is my mod with the 3.1 internals going on three weeks of non-stop vaping. The shell is about two months old from my previous v3.0. I only have slight scuff marks on the white internals from the juice bottle and battery change outs. This shell has the Krylon Matte finish. It has gone with me everywhere. Rain...shine, mud...beach, bars.... high speed chases...

...few questions
- Was a version with the charger ever considered?
- What atty do you typically use..(Magma)?
- After watching the assembly video, it wasn't clear to me if the outer case might be slipped off towards the bottom when assembled...(?)

Great work, gdeal. Many will appreciate your labor of love and benefit from it. Thanks so much for what you've done and will do.

 

[ZeroOhms]

This blew me away. The mod is awesome but people here are... beyond awesome. I got nothing but respect for everyone here.
This thread gave me enough motivation and guideline to get me started on my first DIY. Thank you!

I want to build 2 mods. First is gdeal v3.1 in exact spec and procedure defined here.
- Can someone post a pic of internal wiring? It has been many many years since I did wires/welding and would help to see how the pros do their tucking/channeling of wires internally

For the second mod, I would like to try something slight different
- Anybody trying this out with their own 3D printer? I am about to buy a 3D printer as a hobby and for kid's science projects. I am not expecting Shapeways quality but I would like to know if there is any printer that works well for this design.
- I spend most of my day at my desk and been wanting to get a good pass through mod. Feels silly to use/swap batteries when the outlet is right next to me. I believe DNA30 chip has pass through capability and thinking about building a pass through bottom feeder using this design. Any feedback or ideas on this?

Thanks

 

[Aal_]

Shapeways ships to the EU for a pretty reasonable flat rate.

As for all the miscellaneous small parts, maybe someone will run a coop for a "Parts Kit".

Have you got a DNA already?

No DNA yet.

 

[T1lVl]

 

[T1lVl]

No charger. Its so easy tp swap batteries and I rhink george skipped it cause of the shape of the mod.

 

[ValHeli]

I figured this will be buried quickly and soon, a lot of folks will be asking the same questions. If it's ok with you guys, I'll repost this and update as needed.


To those who are interested in building the G30,

Please bookmark

And…we are back! The beta for V3 is wrapping up. We now have a V3.1.

I want to thank Rossum, Kataphratos, BobC, Tim, Alexander Mundy, 4Nic8 and ValHeli for taking on the project and providing great feedback and insight. (Big thanks to Rossum for hosting the beta forum!)

The group came up with a number of good improvements to tweak the design, reduce parts, simplify the build and lower the overall build cost.

V3.1 uses the same external shell parts as V3.0 but has changes to the internal structure. I went to mini “deans” type connectors and changed the battery contact. The top cap is now secured by the mini-connectors and larger magnets provide a nice auto-aligning grab/snap and seats the connectors into place. There is also now an option to use a standard ball tact switch instead of the Alps Mini Tact switch for the fire button. The Alps provides a quieter clicking sound, the standard ball tact has a bit more feedback.

So here is V3.1 update:

This is the raw untouched parts from Shapeways. I only press fit the mini connectors and the older ring style magnets into place. In the dry run assembly, the top of the main structure sat a little proud, but during final assembly it tightens up and can be sanded lightly for a custom fit.

This was fun; glad to answer any questions, I am sure the beta guys would do the same.

Hardware:

Parts List V3.1

1. Two Stainless M2 Screws McMaster-Carr
2. Two M2 Brass Press Fit Inserts McMaster-Carr
3. Two Ball Tact Switches (Three is using the the Ball Tact Fire Button) Mouser
4. One Alps Low Profile Tact Switch (not needed if using a Ball Tact Fire Button) SKQGAKE010 ALPS | Mouser
5. One 3 mm Nut Mouser
6. One Battery Contact Mouser
7. Two Fuses 2920L700SLPR Littelfuse | Mouser
8. Two ¼ Inch Cylinder Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44
   Or for extra pull force…. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44-N52
9. Two sets of Mini Connectors Hobbyking.
10. One Fatdaddy 510 “Classic 510 Inserts” FatDaddyVapes.com
11. Atty-510 O-ring – two thicknesses for different atty heights: 1.5mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X011.5]The O-Ring Store and 2mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X011.5]The O-Ring Store

Edit: and big props to Turbocad6 for his work with the deans connectors!

Assembly Vid

Bottom Feed Parts for a Fatdaddy 510 "Classic Insert"

Custom:
1) Drilled out (1/16” hole) Stainless Steel #6-32 pan head screw shaped to size (5.5 mm head diameter, slightly flatten top)
2) Insulator for the screw in the 510 1.5mm X 3.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X003.5] : The O-Ring Store
Or 510 Threaded Connector Insulators - Avid Vaper
3) Two brass washers #6 Brass Large OD Flat Washer | Fastenal
4) One stainless steel nut 6-32x1/4x3/32 18-8 S/S Small Hex Machine Screw Nut | Fastenal
5) Tubing McMaster-Carr
6) Bottles 6 ml LDPE Squeezable Plastic Dropper Bottles 50 | eBay


Pre-drilled Screws “Vented” – Typically ~ 1mm hole

6-32 Version
Hollow screw – Reduce head diameter/height (5.5 mm head diameter, slightly flatten top)
18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Vented, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, 3/4" Length, #6-32 Threads (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
or
Vented Fasteners


Full parts list also available here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_egiFI_57VwbjIwS21WbnBKQmc/edit?usp=sharing

Shapeways, go here:
https://www.shapeways.com/designer/gdeal

You need a body. There are two versions, one uses a ring spacer between the body and the cap as "trim", or a longer version which is intended to be used without. The latter will probably require more "hand fitting" to match up perfectly with your cap.

If you get the shorter body, you'll need a ring spacer as well. There are available both thick and thin. Personally, I don't care for the thick one much. I think the parts now fit will enough to use the thin one. But opinions on this may vary.

You'll need an internal assembly.

You'll need a firing button. There are four versions to choose from. Two for the quiet Alps switch (which is hard to get / on back order right now) and two for the noisier ball tact switch. Each is available in two heights. The original short one sits close to flush with the cap, while the taller one protrudes more. and may be more comfortable to use.

And of course the external parts are available in various materials and colors.

I was asked to post a pic on the 510 set up for modding the Fatdaddy to a Bottom Feeder. Here is how I did it. All the parts are in the parts list.

The screw head is sanded down (chucked in a drill) to 5.5 mm. The white delrin spacer needs to be sized to fit the screw.

The top lip of the Fatdaddy and the large brass washer form a compression seal between the external top cap and the internal piece (not shown)

No charger. Its so easy tp swap batteries and I rhink george skipped it cause of the shape of the mod.

 

[ValHeli]

Assembly Vid #2

 

[gdeal]

...few questions
- Was a version with the charger ever considered?
- What atty do you typically use..(Magma)?
- After watching the assembly video, it wasn't clear to me if the outer case might be slipped off towards the bottom when assembled...(?)

Great work, gdeal. Many will appreciate your labor of love and benefit from it. Thanks so much for what you've done and will do.

Thanks. Yes, Actually Rossum came up with a few good places to tuck a charger in, but it seemed a bit of overkill, given that you can swap a battery almost as fast as plugging a USB in. (but better for travel...) Its still doable as an option, the only thing that would change is the outer shell with a small port opening.

If people want it, I can work up a design.

Magma is good, but I prefer the cyclone. Small footprint, lighter weight. Better proportioned on the mod. Excellent vape.

The main outer shell is attached to the internal frame with two screws. The internal frame locks together. No slippage at all.

 

[B2L]

For the guys just planning building one or two, if someone came up with a kit purchase, it would save on shipping and buying extra parts like the pack of hollow screws. Also I could have missed it, but I didn't see a list of parts needed from Shapeway.

Mike and Tibs have done a co-op for the Tibs mod parts, I've never run a co-op but this should be small enough for a first co-op. I can't commit right this moment due to uncertainty as far as time to invest in it but am willing to consider the idea if there is interest. I can always use 6 ml bottles but 50 is a little overkill, splitting up multi packs makes sense.

 

[Rossum]

- Can someone post a pic of internal wiring? It has been many many years since I did wires/welding and would help to see how the pros do their tucking/channeling of wires internally

Here's some of my build pics. Not that this one still has the original-style battery contact:

This squeezed together a bit more, but I ended up sanding the top a bit more:

This was my original 3-pin connector build in modified 3.0 parts; the upper wires have an unnecessary loop because I figured I would eventually scrap that frame and put the DNA in a 3.1 frame, trimming the wires to an appropriate length when I did that.

The silly thing is that I'm still vaping this.

Mundy's concept of wiring the mod to have the battery's positive end facing down really minimizes the amount of wiring and number of connections needed. It also give a shorter overall path for the current and lower losses.