Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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gdeal

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And…we are back! The beta for V3 is wrapping up. We now have a V3.1.

I want to thank Rossum, Kataphratos, BobC, Tim, Alexander Mundy, 4Nic8 and ValHeli for taking on the project and providing great feedback and insight. (Big thanks to Rossum for hosting the beta forum!)

The group came up with a number of good improvements to tweak the design, reduce parts, simplify the build and lower the overall build cost.

V3.1 uses the same external shell parts as V3.0 but has changes to the internal structure. I went to mini “deans” type connectors and changed the battery contact. The top cap is now secured by the mini-connectors and larger magnets provide a nice auto-aligning grab/snap and seats the connectors into place. There is also now an option to use a standard ball tact switch instead of the Alps Mini Tact switch for the fire button. The Alps provides a quieter clicking sound, the standard ball tact has a bit more feedback.

So here is V3.1 update:

8NMIjJW.jpg


This is the raw untouched parts from Shapeways. I only press fit the mini connectors and the older ring style magnets into place. In the dry run assembly, the top of the main structure sat a little proud, but during final assembly it tightens up and can be sanded lightly for a custom fit.

YQU7B3S.jpg


This was fun; glad to answer any questions, I am sure the beta guys would do the same.

Hardware:

Parts List V3.1

  1. Two Stainless M2 Screws McMaster-Carr
  2. Two M2 Brass Press Fit Inserts McMaster-Carr
  3. Two Ball Tact Switches (Three is using the the Ball Tact Fire Button) Mouser
  4. One Alps Low Profile Tact Switch (not needed if using a Ball Tact Fire Button) SKQGAKE010 ALPS | Mouser
  5. One 3 mm Nut Mouser
  6. One Battery Contact Mouser
  7. Two Fuses 2920L700SLPR Littelfuse | Mouser
  8. Two ¼ Inch Cylinder Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44
    Or for extra pull force…. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44-N52
  9. Two sets of Mini Connectors Hobbyking.
  10. One Fatdaddy 510 “Classic 510 Inserts” FatDaddyVapes.com
  11. Atty-510 O-ring – two thicknesses for different atty heights: 1.5mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X011.5]The O-Ring Store and 2mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X011.5]The O-Ring Store

Edit: and big props to Turbocad6 for his work with the deans connectors!
 
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gdeal

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Bottom Feed Parts for a Fatdaddy 510 "Classic Insert"

Custom:
1) Drilled out (1/16” hole) Stainless Steel #6-32 pan head screw shaped to size (5.5 mm head diameter, slightly flatten top)
2) Insulator for the screw in the 510 1.5mm X 3.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X003.5] : The O-Ring Store
Or 510 Threaded Connector Insulators - Avid Vaper
3) Two brass washers #6 Brass Large OD Flat Washer | Fastenal
4) One stainless steel nut 6-32x1/4x3/32 18-8 S/S Small Hex Machine Screw Nut | Fastenal
5) Tubing McMaster-Carr
6) Bottles 6 ml LDPE Squeezable Plastic Dropper Bottles 50 | eBay


Pre-drilled Screws “Vented” – Typically ~ 1mm hole

6-32 Version

Hollow screw – Reduce head diameter/height (5.5 mm head diameter, slightly flatten top)
18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Vented, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, 3/4" Length, #6-32 Threads (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
or
Vented Fasteners


Full parts list also available here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_egiFI_57VwbjIwS21WbnBKQmc/edit?usp=sharing
 
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Rossum

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Shapeways, go here:
https://www.shapeways.com/designer/gdeal

You need a body. There are two versions, one uses a ring spacer between the body and the cap as "trim", or a longer version which is intended to be used without. The latter will probably require more "hand fitting" to match up perfectly with your cap.

If you get the shorter body, you'll need a ring spacer as well. There are available both thick and thin. Personally, I don't care for the thick one much. I think the parts now fit will enough to use the thin one. But opinions on this may vary.

You'll need an internal assembly.

You'll need a firing button. There are four versions to choose from. Two for the quiet Alps switch (which is hard to get / on back order right now) and two for the noisier ball tact switch. Each is available in two heights. The original short one sits close to flush with the cap, while the taller one protrudes more. and may be more comfortable to use.

And of course the external parts are available in various materials and colors.
 

gdeal

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I was asked to post a pic on the 510 set up for modding the Fatdaddy to a Bottom Feeder. Here is how I did it. All the parts are in the parts list.

The screw head is sanded down (chucked in a drill) to 5.5 mm. The white delrin spacer needs to be sized to fit the screw.

Ij3lgIj.jpg


A0Fz4Yi.jpg


The top lip of the Fatdaddy and the large brass washer form a compression seal between the external top cap and the internal piece (not shown)
 

gdeal

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Excellent work Gdeal!

Can't wait to be squonking, regulated at 30W

any plans on taking this a step further, or do you finally have your "dream vape"?

Dream Vape? Still working on that. But the guy I need to complete it is too busy (busy as a bee...but I am very very happy for him.. so I wait...)
 
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