Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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Kataphraktos

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Is the white dyed by shapeways or is it the natural color of plastic?

Someone should second me on this, but from what I gather from other conversations, the white, black and alumide (now called "metallic plastic") are "real" colors of the plastic, all others are dyed.
 

jakematic

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I love this stuff. I applied around 6 coats to my purple mod, and it still retained most of the grainy look and feel the original plastic had. It looks the same as the day I finished the mod. I just ordered two more cans of the stuff.

Perfect... that's exactly the look I'm going for. For one of them....
Have run across many people concerned about the fragility of a CA finished piece in my research but am pushing ahead on that anyway.


Someone should second me on this, but from what I gather from other conversations, the white, black and alumide (now called "metallic plastic") are "real" colors of the plastic, all others are dyed.

Have you seen the one I destroyed, and then accidentally put in the mod eating bin ?
White is the source powder color for all SF prints, except alumide - unless something changed today.

Read on the blog today they are working on dying the powder, but I suspect serious challenges to batching production time and delivery....

Edit
I was wrong - the detail black is acrylic polymer and in fact not dyed.
Mouse over the samples here: https://www.shapeways.com/material_sample_kits
 
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gdeal

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I believe white is the source material. The black dye they use is different from the color dyes and uses a different process. Apparently it more difficult for them to do (and its reflected in their price). Alumide (Metalic Plastic) has metal mixed in the Nylon material.

The black detail polymer acrylic polymer is a softer material, Early on, I ordered an internal made from it. It was slightly too flexible, but it does works great for buttons and smaller, more solid pieces. That material is more expensive than the white and colored plastic, but I find it much nicer to the touch and typically comes out a lot smoother.
 

mikepetro

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I believe white is the source material. The black dye they use is different from the color dyes and uses a different process. Apparently it more difficult for them to do (and its reflected in their price). Alumide (Metalic Plastic) has metal mixed in the Nylon material.

The black detail polymer acrylic polymer is a softer material, Early on, I ordered an internal made from it. It was slightly too flexible, but it does works great for buttons and smaller, more solid pieces. That material is more expensive than the white and colored plastic, but I find it much nicer to the touch and typically comes out a lot smoother.

Chemical resistance is different between the white/dyed nylon and the detailed black acrylic as well. I use a lot of 99.9% pure isopropyl for cleaning my mods and attys etc, and I have found that it doesnt affect the Nylon at all, but I know from first hand experience (an "oh s**t" moment) that it can haze and soften the detailed black acrylic. Havent tried acetone on the detailed black, not sure what it would do, but I would be scared try it on a piece I needed.
 

ratchet62

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Chemical resistance is different between the white/dyed nylon and the detailed black acrylic as well. I use a lot of 99.9% pure isopropyl for cleaning my mods and attys etc, and I have found that it doesnt affect the Nylon at all, but I know from first hand experience (an "oh s**t" moment) that it can haze and soften the detailed black acrylic. Havent tried acetone on the detailed black, not sure what it would do, but I would be scared try it on a piece I needed.

Don't try it!!!!! Acetone will dissolve acrylic. It may also slightly etch nylon. Alcohol will at a minimum craze acrylic, especially if it has internal stresses. Alcohol should not hurt nylon at all, at least not over the short term.
 

jakematic

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Chemical resistance is different between the white/dyed nylon and the detailed black acrylic as well. I use a lot of 99.9% pure isopropyl for cleaning my mods and attys etc, and I have found that it doesnt affect the Nylon at all, but I know from first hand experience (an "oh s**t" moment) that it can haze and soften the detailed black acrylic. Havent tried acetone on the detailed black, not sure what it would do, but I would be scared try it on a piece I needed.

Follow up to your post last night....
I remember clearly the acetone did not leach any dye from the BSF but it did from the nitrile gloves.

Also since my back ... and other things... kept me up until 0530 I did a crapload of research on the CA.
My mistake was not letting it dry fully between coats, and too humid a day - aka fogging.

There are some awesome straight razors, knives and shaving brush forums I'm scared to get involved with now.
Rossum warned me about ECF and I need no other diversions at the moment !


Edit: And now I'm getting confused as to which material is which with all the naming conventions. Which is why I try to use the ShapeWays-ized names
 
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BobC

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..........
There are some awesome straight razors, knives and shaving brush forums I'm scared to get involved with now.
Rossum warned me about ECF and I need no other diversions at the moment !

Woah Jake, no need to end it all over a spotty squonk casing, how can we talk ya back from the ledge :p
 

mikepetro

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Follow up to your post last night....
I remember clearly the acetone did not leach any dye from the BSF but it did from the nitrile gloves.

Also since my back ... and other things... kept me up until 0530 I did a crapload of research on the CA.
My mistake was not letting it dry fully between coats, and too humid a day - aka fogging.

There are some awesome straight razors, knives and shaving brush forums I'm scared to get involved with now.
Rossum warned me about ECF and I need no other diversions at the moment !


Edit: And now I'm getting confused as to which material is which with all the naming conventions. Which is why I try to use the ShapeWays-ized names

Wooden pens too, thats where I first heard of this.
 

jakematic

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Woah Jake, no need to end it all over a spotty squonk casing, how can we talk ya back from the ledge :p

<heard over bullhorn> "PUT THE SILICA WICKED CLEARO DOWN AND STEP BACK SLOWLY" :lol:
Long story short I threw out the brand new hex drivers, which I didn't need pants for, accidentally while throwing out some junk in the other hand.
THEN it dawned on me that had to be what happened to moo cow.

Side note: my first 'pet' was a Jersey milker named Moo my grandaddy gave me.
Used to follow me around like a dang dog. Most delicious plate sized Porterhouse steaks I've ever had.
That's life on a ranch...


Wooden pens too, thats where I first heard of this.

ZOMG if you have a nice lathe [don't make me buy one Mike] you can make great pens.
Especially if you use boiled linseed oil, which leads to my next point.
I've come to the conclusion that wood is a different animal to apply CA to thinking back about NGR and the finish room at an old workplace.

My search criteria was: ca super glue gel finish -pen
Three invaluable resources:

http://www.huntchat.com/showthread.php?t=47955

Razor Restoration Tutorial: Using CA Finish

 

tiburonfirst

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Chemical resistance is different between the white/dyed nylon and the detailed black acrylic as well. I use a lot of 99.9% pure isopropyl for cleaning my mods and attys etc, and I have found that it doesnt affect the Nylon at all, but I know from first hand experience (an "oh s**t" moment) that it can haze and soften the detailed black acrylic. Havent tried acetone on the detailed black, not sure what it would do, but I would be scared try it on a piece I needed.

oh, how outdated! ;) let's get with it and pick an up-to-date coating! :D

nanopool GmbH
 

mikepetro

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I'm intrigued by the cerakote now! I ordered some colored pieces but might order another set in white or the metallic plastic and try out the cerakote. They sent me a few color samples and they look pretty freakin awesome.

Nice rich colors, decent texture, and durable as all get out.

Edit: You do have to bake it on, I did mine at 175 for 2 hours as that is the lowest temp my oven will go. Worked just fine.

The nice thing about baking the finish on is that after the 2 hours you have a fully cured piece that you can use right away. Most other finishes took overnight (or longer) to cure nice and hard. Paint it, get it in the oven, and by the time you have cleaned up your paint mess, and put it all away, it is almost done.
 
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caveat

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Ordered some!

On an unrelated note, I ordered two DNA's from Evolv and they only shipped me one and I was thinking I'd have a hell of a time getting that resolved. I filled out the contact form on the web site over the weekend and just got a second shipping notice a few minutes ago! No hassle! No fuss! Just thought I'd through out a Kudos for them.
 
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