Nobody is selling anything we are just sharing shipping cost, do to the mxxronxxors this probilly won't happen
Last edited:
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Nobody is selling anything we are just sharing shipping cost, do to the mxxronxxors this probilly won't happen
Actually, there's already interest from 17 people for 20 sets of parts in the Coop thread. So it probably will happen. But if you're in a big hurry, and you want 10 sets of parts, nothing prevents you from ordering them yourself, right now, today, and the total shipping cost of the parts split between 10 mods isn't going to be particularly significant.
I think he's expressing a difference of opinion with the management here. Sorry, but this place is private property. Their house, their rules. Don't like it, build your own house.
Hmmm, Yes, it looks pretty good that it will happen, but it's a little premature to get frustrated, we've worked a couple of months on this to make it all but a slam dunk to build, so a little patience would be appreciated
Yea that the one issue here, but like lots of DIY mods, there just isnt one place to get everything at once and get the exact amount of what you need. I have a box of so many spare/extra parts from different builds its ridiculous. I always get at least 2-3x (sometimes 10x) of everything and I dont toss anything away. I still have the silicone caps that came on carto's from two+ years ago.
But for guys who dont mod part horde like I do, I think B2L willingness to help out fellow ECF'er is great and a good show of character.
But for guys who dont mod part horde like I do, I think B2L willingness to help out fellow ECF'er is great and a good show of character.
if someone is doing a group buy of the parts I'd be in I'll pay the extra shipping to canada
You need to get yourself ECF verified and then head for the Coop interest thread.
The DNA board itself is not particularly sensitive about getting a bit of juice on it; it's the OLED display that tends to fail if it gets wet.
Over-squonking would cause juice to come out of the air hole of the atty. On this mod, that's about as far from the display as you can be.
It's not sealed, although the area most prone to leakage where the bottle is right below the 510 could be caulked to seal it from the electronics after assembly and testing, I suppose. Personally, I don't plan to do that. I do check for leaks every time I change batteries or fill the bottle. In several weeks of use, I've seen nothing significant in the way of leaks.
Over-squonking would cause juice to come out of the air hole of the atty. On this mod, that's about as far from the display as you can be.
It's not sealed, although the area most prone to leakage where the bottle is right below the 510 could be caulked to seal it from the electronics after assembly and testing, I suppose. Personally, I don't plan to do that. I do check for leaks every time I change batteries or fill the bottle. In several weeks of use, I've seen nothing significant in the way of leaks.
Definitely get verified, link to verification here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/283955-how-become-verified-member.html
The process can take a little while, j0ker does it all himself while working it around little things like family and making a living. You may or may not make it in time for this depending on how fast things go.
Thanks g, I'm excited about trying my hand at building and looking forward to sharing the experience. I think the real show of good character here is the person who designed this and is making it available
Last edited:
I oversquonk like it's going out of style. The juice stays on top of the mod, on and around the 510. None of it leaks between the mod and 510 into the main body of my build. I have not touched the portion of the 510 assembly that is inside the body, and it is as dry as the day I finished it.
I found some staining on the 3.0 internals when I converted to 3.1. Appears to have come from the bottle and was probably my sloppiness refilling bottles. I did a couple of thin "soak in" coats of CA on the inside of the body and the bottle section of the internals to prevent liquid from soaking into them. (while they were apart and let sit overnight so they didn't stick together) I now check each time I refill or replace the battery and do a quick wipe inside the bottle opening with a piece of paper towel or tissue.
I wonder what would happen if the display and ribbon were dunked in thinned CA?
(Probably like Schrodinger's cat until someone tried it)
I wonder what would happen if the display and ribbon were dunked in thinned CA?
(Probably like Schrodinger's cat until someone tried it)
As far as using it, the only thing I would like changed is on Evolv. I wish the DNA power lock function was in the flash memory section so it stayed on when changing batteries. I use the pinky under the mod way of holding it (which is ingrained from using my Dibi OliveR) and end up unknowingly changing the power settings 1/10 Watt at a time unless it is power locked.
So as far as the bottle is concerned, here is how I currently do my Bottle Mod. I set it up as a step by step instruction guide in Imgur. Its a bit easier to go through it in their format.
https://imgur.com/a/RB8YK
https://imgur.com/a/RB8YK
IMO, its a better way to seal. Keeping the dripper tip gives a secondary point of compression on the tube to prevent leakage. It also eliminates the need for the oring. Screwing the bottle top onto the screw provides a secondary compression to prevent the tube from coming off the positive pin. It also make the connection rock solid, so your bottle isnt flopping around.
- Status
Similar threads
