didn't you use something like this on the Woodvil you converted to a DNA: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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didn't you use something like this on the Woodvil you converted to a DNA: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178
I plan on sealing my display and board with silicone calking which dries clear, because I am prone at getting juice/water everywhere. That liquid electrical tape looks like a great way to seal the board and I may use that instead. At any rate putting clear silicone in the display recess on the bottom seems like a good idea to keep it clean and protect the mod from a "drunk seanap".
Also, I ordered my mod in white and I plan on getting hydrographics applied. For those curious do a google search for "hydrographic [your city]" and there should be business in your local area that specialize in this. There's all sorts of patterns from camo, to wood, stone and designer.
Here's a quote from one of my local shops:
"Hydro Graphics by Voyles Hydrographics is a unique scientific process of transferring images through many steps. All items must be properly cleaned to accept the hydrographic process. Most items then go through a lengthy prep from sanding to priming. All surfaces require different types of primers. After proper prep and priming, the items must then be painted with multiple coats of specific paints from waterborne to solvent, depending on the application, in our paint booth and then be baked in our paint booth. After dipping and inspecting for proper etching the item gets rinsed thoroughly with soft water to remove starches and chemical activator from the film. After adequate drying, all our items receive coats of automotive clear coat paint in flat or gloss finishes."
There's some pretty crazy designs you can get, and I got a quote for $40. What do you guys think?
http://www.voyleshydrographics.com/filmpattern.php
Also, I ordered my mod in white and I plan on getting hydrographics applied. For those curious do a google search for "hydrographic [your city]" and there should be business in your local area that specialize in this. There's all sorts of patterns from camo, to wood, stone and designer.
Here's a quote from one of my local shops:
"Hydro Graphics by Voyles Hydrographics is a unique scientific process of transferring images through many steps. All items must be properly cleaned to accept the hydrographic process. Most items then go through a lengthy prep from sanding to priming. All surfaces require different types of primers. After proper prep and priming, the items must then be painted with multiple coats of specific paints from waterborne to solvent, depending on the application, in our paint booth and then be baked in our paint booth. After dipping and inspecting for proper etching the item gets rinsed thoroughly with soft water to remove starches and chemical activator from the film. After adequate drying, all our items receive coats of automotive clear coat paint in flat or gloss finishes."
There's some pretty crazy designs you can get, and I got a quote for $40. What do you guys think?
http://www.voyleshydrographics.com/filmpattern.php
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It looks cool but I would have them to do a test piece to make sure the printef part doesnt melt or warp
Central Montgomery County. Technically I actually live here.
yea I used that on one of my woodies. it works good. I even rinse it out in the sink every once in a while without worrying about it too much. I considered silicone but I think silicone will hold heat in a lot more than this liquid plastic coating. clear silicone might work good on the screen
Just a note, I received and installed the new 3.1 internal shell, it's perfect, very stable
Ok, I've got most everything ordered that I dont all ready have, just trying to put mod together in my mind and have a question. On post #262 on the order list #5 3mm nut. Is this the right part I can't figure out where it goes on mouser picture looks nothing like I've seen in build pics.
The part is right (see the spec info)... the picture is wrong on Mousers site. Its a 3 mm nut that is 4 mm long. This nut is used in the top cap to secure the battery thumb screw. (which you re-purpose from the Fatdaddy 510)
only one thing stopping me from doing this - McmAster Carr - going to order the screws and the brass expansion inserts but they do not inform you of the shipping cost at the checkout - and As I live in the UK - this is important as they could royally fleece me on shipping
anyone know where i can get these inserts in the UK?
anyone know where i can get these inserts in the UK?
only one thing stopping me from doing this - McmAster Carr - going to order the screws and the brass expansion inserts but they do not inform you of the shipping cost at the checkout - and As I live in the UK - this is important as they could royally fleece me on shipping
anyone know where i can get these inserts in the UK?
Not the exact same product, but the specs look good. These should work with minimal modding effort.
M2 BRASS INSERTS - HEAT INSERT FOR PLASTIC QTY: 25 | eBay
M2 M2.5 M3 M4 STAINLESS COUNTERSUNK SOCKET SCREW ALLEN KEY BOLTS SCREWS DIN7991 | eBay You want the M2 8mm selection.
And free delivery for the UK.....
cool - thanks for that - added to my cart
just a quick question regarding the poly-fuses...
I see that you're using two 7A poly-fuses in parallel - that is effectively doubling the trip current yeah? - approximately - not factoring in the heat derating etc..
But I ask because the fuses you list on the parts from mouser have a 7A hold current and a 14A trip current. now wouldn't two fuses in parallel give a trip current of 28A? also would these two fuses also allow 14A to flow with no issues?
wouldn't the DNA 30 board have cooked before those fuses trip?
Also a 28Amp trip would also theoretically allow many 18650's to go past the C rating and so wouldn't offer much protection there for the battery either?
can anyone confirm this and what would be the best fuse to use there - a 12A trip more suitable? or indeed just ONE of those poly fuses would do the job - their internal resistance is tiny anyway at just 7 mOhms...
just a quick question regarding the poly-fuses...
I see that you're using two 7A poly-fuses in parallel - that is effectively doubling the trip current yeah? - approximately - not factoring in the heat derating etc..
But I ask because the fuses you list on the parts from mouser have a 7A hold current and a 14A trip current. now wouldn't two fuses in parallel give a trip current of 28A? also would these two fuses also allow 14A to flow with no issues?
wouldn't the DNA 30 board have cooked before those fuses trip?
Also a 28Amp trip would also theoretically allow many 18650's to go past the C rating and so wouldn't offer much protection there for the battery either?
can anyone confirm this and what would be the best fuse to use there - a 12A trip more suitable? or indeed just ONE of those poly fuses would do the job - their internal resistance is tiny anyway at just 7 mOhms...
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Mamu's post is one of the best here on ECF: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...g-appropriate-fuse-your-mod.html#post11996664
I am not the expert here but this is my understanding. Basically its a trade off for amp hold, size, low resistance and time to trip. If you have a hard short these fuses will trip in under .2 seconds. I would rather have my battery shut down almost instantly that worry about a slow sizzle of my DNA...
Plus the DNA doesnt fry instantly... The lower amp hold SMT PTC fuses in our range needs dont really have the fast of a cutoff time and the required amp hold. (there are some good ones available if you arent going to vape at 25 to 30 watts...)But if you see a more balance fuse spec and its small enough to squeeze into the device...post it up. I am sure people would be interested.
well that's going to hold me up and possibly write off this project for me - I've looked everywhere and aside from mouser can't find these fuses anywhere but there - and they are not expecting them in until the end of October..
Plus with their set rate of £12.000 GBP for shipping - just two of these fuses will cost me $27 dollars -- it just might be the straw that brakes this projects back for me unless I can find an available alternative to go there instead.. and personally for me I never go above 12 W in any of my mods... the only other poly fuses i can find are 6a hold with a 12a trip with a max V rating of 30V but I've no idea if they would fit in the available space of the mod case or not..
alternatives for the fuse would be appreciated if you can suggest - otherwise - it will be a non-starter for me as that is one of 2 parts that will hold me up - the other is ironically the small SS nut needed for the fat daddy 510 mod - not available in the UK - and have to buy in packs of 100 from the US again at SILLY prices
Plus with their set rate of £12.000 GBP for shipping - just two of these fuses will cost me $27 dollars -- it just might be the straw that brakes this projects back for me unless I can find an available alternative to go there instead.. and personally for me I never go above 12 W in any of my mods... the only other poly fuses i can find are 6a hold with a 12a trip with a max V rating of 30V but I've no idea if they would fit in the available space of the mod case or not..
alternatives for the fuse would be appreciated if you can suggest - otherwise - it will be a non-starter for me as that is one of 2 parts that will hold me up - the other is ironically the small SS nut needed for the fat daddy 510 mod - not available in the UK - and have to buy in packs of 100 from the US again at SILLY prices
Fuses aren't needed. Its for added safety.
The mod will function fine without then. On the 3.0 beta I didn't even touch them.
The mod will function fine without then. On the 3.0 beta I didn't even touch them.
I never fuse the dna's personally, I don't see any reason to. what is it protecting that the dna doesn't already protect itself from? the only reason I could see to add a fuse is to protect it from a wiring fault
That nut doesn't need to be SS. It's not in contact with e-liquid. IMO, a brass nut would be fine. In fact, I'm using a thin brass 6-32 nut in my current build.the other is ironically the small SS nut needed for the fat daddy 510 mod - not available in the UK - and have to buy in packs of 100 from the US again at SILLY prices
Also, it doesn't need to be a 6-32; it just needs to fit whatever drilled ("vented") screw you're using as your 510 centerpost. A 6-32 screw is darn close to 3.5mm if metric hardware is easier to find. An M4 vented screw could also be made to work.
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