Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[Kataphraktos]

Hmmm, there is a hairline crack there when viewed through the 510 hole. That gap I circled is bugging me, I didnt see that in any of the pics on the Build Doc. I am thinking that maybe I need shave a few mils off the top and bottom surfaces of the 510 internal deck. Maybe it is just a hair out of tolerance. Do the top first to get the inner 510 surfaces sitting flush, then take whatever else I need off the bottom.

I did not have this issue when I swapped the v3.1 internals into mine, but I did have it with the previous v3.0. I actually built it to completion first, then shaved down the top of the internals to get rid of the bit of wobble I had. I had at least 6 coats of the clear Krylon on it, and didn't care as much if I filed the coats off of the internals.

 

[mackman]

Per Jakematic's suggestion I sealed my grey metallic plastic body parts with the semi gloss polyurethane. It has a nice sheen but no noticeable metallic "sparkling" of the black body. The grey body parts have a very defined uniform color and texture and am well satisfied with the fit of them and the internals to them.
I also did a dry fit of the internals per the assembly document. My internals were very clean and everything fit well. The one thing I did find was the mini connectors fit somewhat loosely in the internal slots. The 1st picture is before sealing and the other 2 after. The camera doesn't capture all the detail (sorry).

 

[jakematic]

I sealed my grey metallic plastic body parts with the semi gloss polyurethane

That looks fantastic Mack !

Might have to order it in that color too

 

[jakematic]

Stainless steel is a very difficult material to work with, and hardens as you work it.

ShapeWays doesn't 3D print metal - they print a model, make a mold, and then pour molten metal.
This is going to leave casting marks and not be to 'perfect' tolerances.

I spent the last 2.5 hours fine tuning a ring with hand files, sand paper, emery cloth, and a Dremel.
No doubt the other softer materials would be easier to get good fitment with.

My advice is that while it looks really classy, think twice before you order it.
You WILL need a good set of tools and have to be fairly handy to tweak it to fit.

 

[Kataphraktos]

That looks fantastic Mack !

Might have to order it in that color too

If gdeal ever wanted to to make these for retail sale, we know who he's gonna get to run the production line!

 

[rogue007]

Lookie here guys.......

Spring loaded 510 squonker pin



Details in the 'Parts' thread

 

[gdeal]

ok...here is a counter point on using the new Fat Daddy center pin. I notice with the fatdaddy that you can lose compression on the oring or it will shift and displace. This happened with both the provided silicone o-ring and a buna-70 oring that was similar in size. I first thought that the silicone o-ring was just too soft, but the buno 70 oring also displaced. I do think that a different size oring would be more optimal to use. The current oring provided with the ss tube has a much larger diameter than the ss tube, so this is probably a big factor in movement. I didnt have an oring this small with a CS thickness that would hug the ss tube but also seal to the outside threads. I imaging that that would stay in place better. With this connector you will need to re-check your oring seal every time you take the atty off the 510.

I am not writing this off yet. There may be better way to address it, I am sure some other folks will have good ideas.

Here are some pics from my test.

First view after placing oring in the 510 and then sliding the flanged ss tube into place...looks really good!

Very nice tight fit and it sealed with a Divo. So far so good!

Removed the Divo....ugh...o-ring movement.



Rinse, repeat with a Buno-70 oring...same issue.

Did I miss something, I really wanted to say "Its a win!"

 

[rogue007]

There's two delrin housings you can buy now.... He has one that is 3mm longer, I'm experimenting with that one now. There are two different housings.

 

[Nautilusfan]

Per Jakematic's suggestion I sealed my grey metallic plastic body parts with the semi gloss polyurethane. It has a nice sheen but no noticeable metallic "sparkling" of the black body. The grey body parts have a very defined uniform color and texture and am well satisfied with the fit of them and the internals to them.
I also did a dry fit of the internals per the assembly document. My internals were very clean and everything fit well. The one thing I did find was the mini connectors fit somewhat loosely in the internal slots. The 1st picture is before sealing and the other 2 after. The camera doesn't capture all the detail (sorry).
View attachment 373532
View attachment 373533
View attachment 373534

Really looks good!! Almost a gunmetal look to it Hmmmm

 

[gdeal]

There's two delrin housings you can buy now.... He has one that is 3mm longer, I'm experimenting with that one now. There are two different housings.

Can you double check your oring seal to see if what happened to me is just a one off experience? Nice mod for the longer FD510 BTW.

 

[Nautilusfan]

Stainless steel is a very difficult material to work with, and hardens as you work it.

ShapeWays doesn't 3D print metal - they print a model, make a mold, and then pour molten metal.
This is going to leave casting marks and not be to 'perfect' tolerances.

I spent the last 2.5 hours fine tuning a ring with hand files, sand paper, emery cloth, and a Dremel.
No doubt the other softer materials would be easier to get good fitment with.

My advice is that while it looks really classy, think twice before you order it.
You WILL need a good set of tools and have to be fairly handy to tweak it to fit.

Jake, that doesn't sound good at all! Way too much time invested!

 

[jakematic]

Jake, that doesn't sound good at all! Way too much time invested!

I never mind blazing a trail so that others can learn from my findings

 

[BobC]

Looks like a leaker to me, how'd it go for you?

 

[BobC]

I never mind blazing a trail so that others can learn from my findings

SO, what'd we learn?
Don't buy the metal ones

 

[jakematic]

SO, what'd we learn?

That I once had a gourmet French kitchen and now have a mod assembly plant covered in stainless dust

Don't buy the metal ones

8-o Never say die!
I'm gonna have metal no matter what it takes.

The only thing I can figure is gdeal may want to have a metal version CAD file with about 1-2mm extra in both axes.
Otherwise we're all in for some serious elbow grease with metal rings.

 

[BobC]

Uwe got the metal rings, and he also had to spend a bunch of time retrofitting them, too much work,
It's wood or it's polished metallic plastic for me

 

[jakematic]

he also had to spend a bunch of time retrofitting them

We're stubborn like that... it's why we get along so well

In my infinite wisdom I never put a metal ring on a completed mod
They seem to fit (close to) perfect until you put the internals in...

 

[gdeal]

Jake...if the metal parts are out of spec including their variances, we got to let shapeways know that they are dropping the ball. Can yoeu measure one of your offending parts and let me know the dimensions of the inner ring?

 

[jakematic]

Jake...if the metal parts are out of spec including their variances, we got to let shapeways know that they are dropping the ball. Can yoeu measure one of your offending parts and let me know the dimensions of the inner ring?

As accurately as I could, at the widest spots.
The inner ring is pretty darn close - and required little modification.
The shoulders of the outer ring took a lot of work though.


Edit: I don't think SW metals are as accurate as they could be for this type of thing.
Plastic is one thing, but metals are a lot more complicated, and polishing changes the dimensions.
Without going to an ultra high end process it may not be possible to get an 'off the shelf' fit.



Raw bronze

Raw brass

Premium silver

 

[gdeal]

The CAD part at that dimension is 48.475mm Looks like the variance is under 1%? But close only counts in grenades.....