Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[jakematic]

The solid silver one is the best fit too... although it's also going to require some very very careful tuning.
Plastic rings form easily to the sections, and conform over time unlike metal.

Hey, if ya haven't got to modify something, then it's not a mod
Much like any hobby... you're either a builder or assembler

Several people have expressed their amazement at my stick-to-it attitude on the stainless.
I'd rather find out what it takes to complete the job, and get the info out there now than have someone unhappy later.
Or worse never complete their mod build....

 

[TruckerMSA]

Fatdaddy just posted this.

Sent from the Truck O shop

 

[Steamer861]

I hate to be the negator Cause it's a nice diagram but were can you solder a + wire directly to the SS Pin to address the voltage drop? I'm just stating the obvious
Don't shoot the messenger

Fatdaddy just posted this.

Sent from the Truck O Shop

 

[Kataphraktos]

I hate to be the negator Cause it's a nice diagram but were can you solder a + wire directly to the SS Pin to address the voltage drop? I'm just stating the obvious
Don't shoot the messenger

I assume the v drop is from current passing from one type of metal to another that have not been joined via solder?

 

[jakematic]

I assume the v drop is from current passing from one type of metal to another that have not been joined via solder?

I'm also concerned about galvanic issues, and the effect of e-liquid on that.

From: https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf

As the series suggests, steel and aluminum are relatively compatible, but if brass and steel contact, the steel will corrode because it is more anodic than the brass.

No material is truly 'stainless', 'bulletproof', 'waterproof', 'leakproof' etc... they are relative descriptors.

Kudos to everyone for working toward a solution.

 

[gdeal]

Trucker thanks for posting that. While soldering is one issue. The other is the design. I now see understand why my oring jumps, so I took a closer look at the actual part.

Basically the oring is only under compression from the atty. Once that compression is released there is nothing to hold the oring in place other than coincidental pressure from the threads on the 510. The flange on the ss pin needs to be larger than the hollow brass connector.

Part without compression:

Part with full compression:

Part with no compression and the oring placed:

So you can see that SS flange can be compressed so that the oring will come to sit on top of it, instead of staying underneath.

This can easily be remedied if Dennis increases the flange diameter from 4mm to 5mm or 5.5 mm.

The floating feature has a range of 1.75 mm which if it you did this as well as resized an appropriate oring would fix this issue. It would somewhat limit the floating feature but you really dont need that large of a range.

 

[TruckerMSA]

Trucker thanks for posting that. While soldering is one issue. The other is the design. I now see understand why my oring jumps, so I took a closer look at the actual part.

Basically the oring is only under compression from the atty. Once that compression is released there is nothing to hold the oring in place other than coincidental pressure from the threads on the 510. The flange on the ss pin needs to be larger than the hollow brass connector.

Part without compression:

Part with full compression:

Part with no compression and the oring placed:

So you can see that SS flange can be compressed so that the oring will come to sit on top of it, instead of staying underneath.

This can easily be remedied if Dennis increases the flange diameter from 4mm to 5mm or 5.5 mm.

The floating feature has a range of 1.75 mm which if it you did this as well as resized an appropriate oring would fix this issue. It would somewhat limit the floating feature but you really dont need that large of a range.

You talking about the flange on the SS needle? If so, what about grinding down the center pin flange a lil bit? Would that also help?


Sent from the Truck O Shop

 

[mikepetro]

I think gdeal is talking about something like this:

 

[mikepetro]

It has me wondering. At work we have instruments that are used for testing gases. We run small spaghetti type ss tubing into a compression fitting to hook up these instruments. Once you put the nut on the tubing you then "flare" the end of the tubing. There is a special flaring tool to create the flare. I am wondering if something like that could be applied here. As in the "double Flare" shown below.

Or the 180 shown below.

Something like this tool but in a smaller more appropriate size. I know they do exist as we have this tiny SS and Brass tubing with the flares on several instruments at work.

I am seeing this tool widely available for 3/16 tubing, what size tubing would be needed?

 

[gdeal]

You talking about the flange on the SS needle? If so, what about grinding down the center pin flange a lil bit? Would that also help?


Sent from the Truck O Shop

Yes. I am talking about the Flange on the SS needle. I dont think grinding down the brass center pin would help. In the second pic you can see that the SS Flange is the same size as the hole in the delrin insulator. So there is not effective lip to hold the oring in place. I think it is going to need either a larger SS flange or perhaps a M2 washer like this McMaster-Carr

Edit: I missed Mike's graphic...that is exactly what I was thinking....

 

[TruckerMSA]

Yes. I am talking about the Flange on the SS needle. I dont think grinding down the brass center pin would help. In the second pic you can see that the SS Flange is the same size as the hole in the delrin insulator. So there is not effective lip to hold the oring in place. I think it is going to need either a larger SS flange or perhaps a M2 washer like this McMaster-Carr

Edit: I missed Mike's graphic...that is exactly what I was thinking....

Hmmm, interesting, I think it will work.


Sent from the Truck O Shop

 

[gdeal]

I am seeing this tool widely available for 3/16 tubing, what size tubing would be needed?

Something like this may work:

Stainless Steel 304 Hypodermic Tubing, 15 Gauge, 0.072" OD, 0.0625" ID, 0.00475" Wall, 36" Length: Industrial Metal Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[TruckerMSA]

I have sent a msg to Dennis to see if he could make the flange wider to 5mm or 5.5mm. I'm waiting for his response.


Sent from the Truck O Shop

 

[mikepetro]

Something like this may work:

Stainless Steel 304 Hypodermic Tubing, 15 Gauge, 0.072" OD, 0.0625" ID, 0.00475" Wall, 36" Length: Industrial Metal Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Tube and Wire Forming | Colorado HypoTube

http://fourslideproducts.com/tube-forming-tube-fabrication/
Scroll down to: Tube End Forming - Flanged End

 

[jakematic]

Went down that path in August looking at rivets and plumbing inserts.
Maybe you guys will find a better way

 

[mikepetro]

Just an idea????

 

[jakematic]

Applied directly from the tube.

Coats 1 and 2 were wiped quickly with a paper towel while still in open time (before it dries) and it gets absorbed quickly.
Coat 3 was allowed to run heavily, part rotated then wiped quickly again.

The button is not quite that reflective looking, but I shot it with a flashlight on it.
Note the rake made from some wire to the right - very handy for moving parts around and mounting/dismounting from a gloved hand while finishing.

Will be trying this on my St Paddy's day mod [green body, white ring, orange top/button] when it arrives in a couple weeks.
For the record... and I know someone I know is thinking this already... I couldn't bear to order a yellow body to correctly duplicate the German flag....

After drying for 30 minutes.
Note there is a little fuzz from the paper towel I'm hoping will sand out with 1200 grit wetsand

 

[mikepetro]

I tried this on some DNA Screen bezels before. I used a polythene glove and applied the glue with my fingertips, no lint.....

And wax paper makes a great work surface, the CA wont stick to it.

 

[gdeal]

Just an idea????

No o-ring? how will it seal?

 

[mikepetro]

No o-ring? how will it seal?

A flat washer (silicone or similar substance). Even a sheet of silicone and a couple of hole punches might work.

Think garden hose washer, but appropriate OD and ID.