Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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mackman

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Prep note that I thought I'd pass along.
When reducing the length of 510 thumb screw thread to 5 mm by sanding or grinding (pg 18 of assembly guide) take care to preserve the integrity of the threads. The 3mm Hex nut (#3 on pg 17) is threaded onto the thumbscrew.
I used a fine metal Dremel cut off wheel to reduce the threads of the thumbscrew and with some filing of the screw was able to thread the nut to the screw.

CAM00560.jpg
 
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BobC

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Use a small, sharp, accurate pair of side cutter/dikes.
Angling them as shown in the picture will make it easier and safer to do.

Clip the legs toward the edge of the DNA board.


zpyG7Qg.jpg

[shown tilted up]


GENTLY rock the switch back and forth to break the other legs, or clip them

Or.......Just use a fingernail and flick the switch cover off, easier and not irreversible
 

Alexander Mundy

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The cover of the switch. Take a look at the switch in the picture I posted. It is impossible for it to fire without the little metal piece that pushes against those interior posts. With the switch cover and interior piece on it will fire sometimes when squonking. Real easy to remove the cover, just pry it off with a fingernail or if like me and fingernails are short a small screwdriver. Got to get back to work now.
 

BobC

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Cool, due to the inherent tolerance variable of 3D printing, there is no one answer to how to prep your SW parts.

In general, clean off fabrication dust, scraping any ridge or edge to clean out any dust there, dry fit the parts together including the buttons and 510
If anything doesn't fit or is too lose shave it or use glue on the part that fits loose
 

Rossum

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It seems there may be several steps in prepping the Shapeway parts. Taking out of bag, gloves, brushing dust, trimming/filing, perhaps other prep including clear-coating.
I've never been fastidious enough to bother with gloves. Yes, you'll probably want to clear-coat or otherwise seal the exterior of the shell parts. But in the end this is a "tool mod" made of plastic, not a piece of art or sumpin' ;)
 

gdeal

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You dont necessarily need to wear gloves. But the material is absorbant and can pick up lint/dust etc. More so with the non-polished plastics than WSF. If the material gets a stain or dirty you can wash it so long as the dirt particles are not embedded in the pores. So if your hands are clean and you are working in a clean environment, no issues. If you do happen to get something on the material, painters tape easily removes it by rolling it over it. If, for another example, you got juice on the parts, just wash it with dish detergent. But this is all just prep work for doing a finish on anything, regardless of material. Its gotta stay clean. The last thing you want is a bit of fuzz caught in the base coat of your finish. So better to take good measures that it doesnt happen in the first place. But if some does happen, most of the time it can be cleaned up.

"Not a piece of art"....Harumph :)

tumblr_inline_n9id2mSiJv1qf6i04.jpg
 

mikepetro

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For cleaning WSF, I use a glass bowl with acetone and "Nail Art" brushes to give the part a good scrub while submerged. I am amazed at how much sticky polymer dust slime is left in the bowl when I am done. The Nail Art brush bristles stand up to acetone, although the brush handle doesnt unless you buy the real expensive ones, so just done splash the handle.
 

Steamer861

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Nice my dna's showed up last week :) Bin 2 weeks waiting for Shapeways. Shipping date is tomorrow but 4 pieces still in production, after 2 long weeks of checking status everyday:( Must be real busy over at Shapeways right now :(


received my dna today and placed the shapeways order. woot woot.
 
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