Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Well, your original statement didn't have it spec'd quite that narrowly.
Just how long do you plan to keep that SX-350/26650 design of yours under wraps?
Well, your original statement didn't have it spec'd quite that narrowly.
Just how long do you plan to keep that SX-350/26650 design of yours under wraps?
<== What he said
I normally dont treat the WSF internals. The tolerances and interfaces are too tight. But the material is porous and can possible get stained. So I did a little experiment tonight to see if they could be sealed and do so without compromising all the holes, slots, grooves and rails. I put together two fresh internal units. I lightly sprayed all the parts on one unit with Krylon #1311. I did two coats. The first coat sunk in to the material, The second coat laid on top of the surface. I didnt pool the acrylic on the second spray, it was more of a misting. This acrylic spray is one of the thinnest coating surface treatments I have use. It added basically zero thickness to the parts and everything assembled perfectly after sealing the material.
I did a quick test by placing a drop of water on each assembly, it was the juice tube side and I tilted them slightly to gauge pooling vs. run off vs absorption. It worked very well. Sealed parts on the left vs unsealed on the right.
Treated - Pretest material - no real noticeable difference in material.
One drop of water placed on each part- Treated part pools water, untreated absorbs instantly.
15 second after the water was dropped. - Treated spreads out but stays on the surface, un treated water spreads through out the part.
Close up on the last pic... Shiney spots are the water reflecting light. Notice the bottom half of the treated part isnt wet...
I did a quick test by placing a drop of water on each assembly, it was the juice tube side and I tilted them slightly to gauge pooling vs. run off vs absorption. It worked very well. Sealed parts on the left vs unsealed on the right.
Treated - Pretest material - no real noticeable difference in material.
One drop of water placed on each part- Treated part pools water, untreated absorbs instantly.
15 second after the water was dropped. - Treated spreads out but stays on the surface, un treated water spreads through out the part.
Close up on the last pic... Shiney spots are the water reflecting light. Notice the bottom half of the treated part isnt wet...
SW screwed up and gave me polished metallic internals instead of the SWF I ordered, best thing ever, no need to treat, no stains, 3 times stronger then SWF
To me, it's the only way to go
If Gdeal designs an sx350 mod i would be really ......, last week i picked up a PI mod for a huge amount of money
Lol, that's your own dang fault...
Sent from the Truck O Shop
I just received a red and a black kit from Shapeways, with gold steel and nickel plated steel thick rings and tall ball tact buttons. The rings are both a tad tight, and will need to be modded ever so slightly to fit. While shaving down the lip of the plastic body and top cap would be easier, I think I will opt to shave down the inner lips of the rings, as I don't want to risk shaving too much off the body parts and compromising them. I will not use a dremel, but will hand file them to avoid any inadvertent slips.
What kinda modding 'round things' is that? Pull that dremel outta that holster and show us what you're made of
OK I gave in and went with the dremel, the metal rings would have taken too long with a file, it is a bit difficult to get in on the interior crevices and apply enough force at such an awkward angle. It is very easy with the dremel and a small stone attachment, took a few minutes to get both rings just right.
I don't believe these are out of spec, as the two would coincidentally be out of spec an equal amount. I think the metal, being grainy where the plastic is smooth, has a bit more material on every surface due to the graininess that protrudes. I suspect I took off about 0.1mm from each of the inner diamaters of the lips of the ring.
I don't believe these are out of spec, as the two would coincidentally be out of spec an equal amount. I think the metal, being grainy where the plastic is smooth, has a bit more material on every surface due to the graininess that protrudes. I suspect I took off about 0.1mm from each of the inner diamaters of the lips of the ring.
The mod is relatively easy in hindsight. When you get your first steel ring and it doesnt go right on the body you get that sinking feeling like you are screwed. But once you mod one...the next is childs play.
Just saw this on Facebook:
We at Fat Daddy Vapes apologize if orders take a little bit longer to get out in the next week or so. As you may know Dennis (fat daddy) has been in the Philippines. He has been battling flu like symptoms, this morning he was taken to the hospital and is currently in critical care. Those of us stateside will continue to process orders, but email response and international orders may take longer than usual to process. We apologize for the inconvenience.
We at Fat Daddy Vapes apologize if orders take a little bit longer to get out in the next week or so. As you may know Dennis (fat daddy) has been in the Philippines. He has been battling flu like symptoms, this morning he was taken to the hospital and is currently in critical care. Those of us stateside will continue to process orders, but email response and international orders may take longer than usual to process. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Here is some info from my Scientist friend about CA:
(This is in response to me asking him why the acetone/CA mixture foamed up and got hot on me when I stirred it with a Ty-rap.)
The last bit about "haze" correlates with the information that jakematic shared when he played with this process.
(This is in response to me asking him why the acetone/CA mixture foamed up and got hot on me when I stirred it with a Ty-rap.)
The last bit about "haze" correlates with the information that jakematic shared when he played with this process.
I was looking at lipo, I think what manufacturers should focus on is 7.4V input. Batteries in series should not be a big taboo as before. I mean with a good chip and maybe some safety fuses we should all feel safe. Better yet use a 2S lipo. I'm thinking of building a vamo (i like that it can go to 30 watts at 7.4v input) using a lipo pack.
- Status
Similar threads
