Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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ValHeli

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I would like the bumblebee one. (I'm having flashbacks of Steve Vai's Jem guitars):headbang:.... PM me how much you want for it ValHeli. :D

bro, if only I had mail here in Baghdad, I'll trade you guys for a blank one. I just enjoy doing this :lol::lol::lol:

ValHeli-Your marbling is magic.What is the medium?

I use humbrol paint mixed w/ thinner for this. I've read that magic marble paints are much easier to use
 

Kentastic

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bro, if only I had mail here in Baghdad, I'll trade you guys for a blank one. I just enjoy doing this :lol::lol::lol:

Yikes, well you just stay safe. I can always buy a magic marble kit and practice on random plastics in my house. I wonder if my wife would like a swirly purple hair dryer?.... probably. She's weird... she married me.
 

ValHeli

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Yikes, well you just stay safe. I can always buy a magic marble kit and practice on random plastics in my house. I wonder if my wife would like a swirly purple hair dryer?.... probably. She's weird... she married me.

That's not a bad idea at all! Visit their FB page and you'll see all sorts of items that's been swirl painted. Christmas is around the corner so you have an excuse to practice on ornaments..LOL

 
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caveat

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My bad if this question has already been asked. I've read 70+ pages of this thread and have not found the answer.
Does anyone have any experience on the Cerakote heat treatment finish. Will it deform the alumide material?
Works like a charm.

I did a few pieces and no problems. It's right on the edge at 170 though so YMMV.
 

splinter164

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I am new to vaping (3 months), but have done enough research on ECF to understand that a BF system is a superior delivery method. And the beauty of controlling the wattage via DNA removes much of the screwing around when changing to different juice formulations.

So, my order is in to Shapeways this evening.

I am a fairly accomplished woodsmith and hang out at a woodworkers version of ECF. I use and contribute to the vast knowledge pool on that site. That said, the teamwork, sharing, insight, genius and comradery exhibited in this thread is impressive as hell!!! My thanks to gdeal, all the various beta testers, parts finders, etc. (and Pdib for the beautiful inspiration in the Oliver).

Well done, lads, well done.
 
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Aal_

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I am new to vaping (3 months), but have done enough research on ECF to understand that a BF system is a superior delivery method. And the beauty of controlling the wattage via DNA removes much of the screwing around when changing to different juice formulations.

So, my order is in to Shapeways this evening.

I am a fairly accomplished woodsmith and hand out at a woodworkers version of ECF. I use and contribute to the vast knowledge pool on that site. That said, the teamwork, sharing, insight, genius and comradery exhibited in this thread is impressive as hell!!! My thanks to gdeal, all the various beta testers, parts finders, etc. (and Pdib for the beautiful inspiration in the Oliver).

Well done, lads, well done.

Consider yourself lucky, 3 months in and you are at the leading edge of vaping gear. Congrats.
 

turbocad6

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hey guys, I posted this in another thread but think it might help you guys here so figured I'd post it here as well :) I'm a bit late to the party with the fatdaddy BF 510's because I've built my own till now, but figured I'd at least try the fatdaddy's. got them today and and out of the box they just don't work so I figured out a fix that works great and is easy and fool proof :) maybe one guy can get a roll of this stuff and send a few inches to everybody...

well I came up with a way to make these 510 connectors work great. I came up with a few different alternatives but the best one required me to drill out the plastic insulator to 3/16". was easy to do little by little with the drill bit by hand with no drill, I then inserted a 3/16" OD silicone hose into the barrel of the plastic insulator bottomed to the bottom stop. this silicone bushing is all that's needed, get the length right and just slip the needle in. the silicone has enough give that it allows the head of the needle to sit high enough to contact an atty before it is fully seated and allow the needle to compress and let any atty sit flush and absorb any discrepancies in length from different atties.

the silicone bushing is substantial and there is no chance of leaking as it's a snug enough fit to the outer wall of the insulator drilled to 3/16" and the 1/16" ID is perfect for the needle to slide through with just enough resistance that it can move yet is fully sealed too. I lubed it with vg as I assembled it and it works perfect, should be perfect and durable

I had this hose because this is the hose I use in all my bottom feeder builds as my feed tubes, it's also great to make soft insulators from. what I did was make the main silicone insert be slightly shorter than protruding from the top of the plastic insulator and then cut another small ring to use on the needle to bring it to final length... this allows me to insert the needle and check final adjustment that I can fine tune by simply removing the ring and making the final ring fatter or thinner until i get the right thickness that it works on several atties. once you trim it right it should work on all of your atties

heres a few pics

20141006_214535_zps57bddccc.jpg


20141006_214624_zps64c66550.jpg




this is approx how high the final results will be, actually it's slightly less than this but to fine tune the length to perfect without having to keep removing and installing the main insert of this tube I cut it short of this and then add a ring that can be fine tuned easily as it will just slip in and out easily with the needle

20141006_214721_zps9d9a0404.jpg






cut short of the top so it has room to give for the separate adjusting ring

20141006_220333_zps98ff3ac3.jpg




this is the size ring that works for me with the main insert cut as shown above

20141006_220410_zps46b34eae.jpg




this thing will now make great contact with all my atties yet still let all my atties sit completely flush too and def no chance of leaks


this is the hose I used... this is enough to do well over 100 of these but it is good to have as feed tube hose and for insulators and stuff too. I use this hose all the time for insulating as well as feeding

White SiliconeTubing, 1/16"ID, 3/16"OD, 1/16" Wall, 10' Length: Industrial Rubber Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

TruckerMSA

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hey guys, I posted this in another thread but think it might help you guys here so figured I'd post it here as well :) I'm a bit late to the party with the fatdaddy BF 510's because I've built my own till now, but figured I'd at least try the fatdaddy's. got them today and and out of the box they just don't work so I figured out a fix that works great and is easy and fool proof :) maybe one guy can get a roll of this stuff and send a few inches to everybody...

That's perfect! Problem solved, thanks turbo!


Sent from the Truck O Shop
 

TruckerMSA

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hey guys, I posted this in another thread but think it might help you guys here so figured I'd post it here as well :) I'm a bit late to the party with the fatdaddy BF 510's because I've built my own till now, but figured I'd at least try the fatdaddy's. got them today and and out of the box they just don't work so I figured out a fix that works great and is easy and fool proof :) maybe one guy can get a roll of this stuff and send a few inches to everybody...

Can you post a pic of final assembly of the connector? Where did you solder the positive wire to?


Sent from the Truck O Shop
 

turbocad6

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Can you post a pic of final assembly of the connector? Where did you solder the positive wire to?


Sent from the Truck O Shop


I haven't installed this yet, just got it home last night. I'm thinking to make a clamp on terminal, kind of like a mini battery terminal so the pin can be removed and reinstalled easily... soldering to the pin would make it difficult to remove and reinstall, although the silicone will stand up to the heat of soldering no problem... to solder to the pin I would rough up a ring on the needle where the wire will attach then wrap the wire around tightly then solder... adhesion to the ss will be tough but should be able to get a good connection like this but if I can make a collet type brass terminal that's what I'd rather do. the collet that gdeal used would also be a good way to go, basically you will need to attach the wire to the pin itself not the lower brass retaining cap

also other types of hoses same size may work here but the silicone has the most give so will allow the best adjustment range in it's springiness... there can also be variations on this, a tiny ss spring can even be used instead of the upper ring I used, just cut the insert a bit lower, will still seal fine and then use a tiny spring but I didn't have the right sized SS spring.. should be ss because the spring will be in the juice stream. silicone as the spring works very well though
 
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SkinyFatMan

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That's not a bad idea at all! Visit their FB page and you'll see all sorts of items that's been swirl painted. Christmas is around the corner so you have an excuse to practice on ornaments..LOL



So this stuff is kind of a "DIY Hydrographic" sort of thing?
 

B2L

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So this stuff is kind of a "DIY Hydrographic" sort of thing?

Sorta kinda but not really :blink:

Same concept, the ink/image floats on the surface and the piece is dipped into it. With hydro graphics there is a pre printed image which you float and spray with activator. With swirling you drip the ink onto the waters surface and create your own pattern.
 
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