Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[tiburonfirst]

Speaking of hobby king, I ordered some wires from their EU Warehouse which is supposed to be in Netherlands. 1 month later and no sign of the package. I contacted them and they said I didn't opt for the tracking option for shipping and they can't do anything. You think I can submit a dispute in PayPal?

check the pp tos for europe - over here it would amount to 'item not received' - just recently the time frame for filing was increased. used to be you had 45 days so you might want to open a claim asap!

 

[mikepetro]

Mike just posted a good repost from Mamu on this thread about fuses.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ound-1-us-only-co-op-closed.html#post14659975

Posting it here too, just in case.......

About fuses for the DNA40...
By Modder Mamu on Sunday, November 23, 2014 at 6:26am

Any modder has the option to add/not add fuses, but let's educate ourselves about why it's a good idea to add a fuse...



The primary reason for using a fuse is for circuitry overcurrent protection and also catastrophic batt failure protection if the batt itself fails and internally shorts. Secondary and an added benefit to overcurrent protection, some fuses (not all) will protect both the electronics and the batt from reverse polarity damage if a batt is inserted backwards.



The DNA40 has onboard reverse polarity protection as well as overcurrent protection, so if using a single 18650 batt, both the batt and the DNA40 are protected - adding a fuse here would be redundant to the onboard overcurrent and reverse polarity protection. However, if using dual parallel batts the DNA40 is protected from reverse polarity conditions and overcurrent conditions (with extreme current it may not - see below), but the batts are NOT protected.



With dual parallel batts and without protection (fuse or P-FET) on each batt, if one batt is inserted backwards the DNA40 will not be affected as it is protected, but the batt is not protected and will immediately get hot, hot, hot and vent due to the polarity short. Some fuses (i.e., Littelfuse 2920L700SLPR for the DNA40) when used singly on each batt in a dual batt parallel configuration will protect each batt from reverse polarity damage if one batt is inserted backwards. Nothing will happen if one batt is inserted backwards - no heat, no venting, no smoke.



So, let's take another situation that could (although rare but lol Murphy's Law and all that) occur if you don't add fuses when using dual parallel batts in the mod. One batt internally fails and shorts itself. ALL the current from that bad batt will be dumped into the good batt causing that good batt to also fail. With not having fuse protection, there is no telling what next might occur, but the huge current dump that now exists in the system could travel to the electronics and cause failure there (depends on the converter's onboard overcurrent limit and if the current dump exceeds that limit). Remember, we're working with high drain batts here and in some cases in the neighborhood of 60A or higher. If the extreme current dump from dual batt failure exceeds the DNA40's overcurrent limit, the DNA40 most likely won't survive - it'll get hot hot hot and release the magic smoke.



If you have wired a common fuse (2x in parallel connected common to both batts on the batt + end) and one batt fails and internally shorts itself, ALL the current from the bad batt will be dumped into the good batt causing that good batt to also fail. But with fuse protection, although common to both batts, the current stays at the batt level (i.e., the fuses protect the electronics).



If you have a fuse wired individually to each batt + and if one batt fails and internally shorts itself, the good batt will be protected by its fuse (no current from the bad internally shorted batt would be dumped into the good batt), plus the current stays at the batt level.



There you have it. But like I said, it's the modder's option.



The most basic safety device for a battery is a fuse...

Battery Safeguards; Protection Circuits

 

[dhaiken]

I uploaded the center piece. or do as Drunk_J suggested.

Thank you sir! I'll grab a couple of those.

 

[Aal_]

check the pp tos for europe - over here it would amount to 'item not received' - just recently the time frame for filing was increased. used to be you had 45 days so you might want to open a claim asap!

Yeah I have 45 days and there is an item not received option in the dispute. I will wait till mid of the week. Thanks.

 

[Steamer861]

Before you write off the internals You can try to dissolve the glue with nail polish remover
I would dab a qtip with the remover and soak the glue really good repeat a few times then wait a bit and try to take it apart It's worth a try

I got a DOA version of the DNA 40, or killed it myself. Have not determined the source yet.
However, I did not detect that until the Mod was completed and glued. Somewhat aggressively in some places.
I have salvaged all but the main center frame of the internals. I doubt my ability to successfully salvage it, though I haven't tried yet.
Is it possible to buy just that piece at Sculpteo instead of the complete internal assembly?
It would help in my current situation, and I would probably order a 2nd one and build it up as a backup.

 

[dhaiken]

Before you write off the internals You can try to dissolve the glue with nail polish remover
I would dab a qtip with the remover and soak the glue really good repeat a few times then wait a bit and try to take it apart It's worth a try

I think I will. I am probably going to remove the DNA & just soak the whole thing,
Even if it works, I think I will be ordering a backup or two.

 

[OthatGuy]

Anyone ever tap the Delrin insert of the 510 connector to fit the pos screw to make it a little better at being adjustable? I'm thinking about that I'd appreciate sobe feedback.

 

[BigLungs]

Anyone ever tap the Delrin insert of the 510 connector to fit the pos screw to make it a little better at being adjustable? I'm thinking about that I'd appreciate sobe feedback.

It's a 6/32 tap(if you used a 6/32 screw as the positive pin), as outlined in here https://imgur.com/a/ouV6h

I used a #35 drill bit then the 6/32 tap I had on hand.

 

[OthatGuy]

Thanks, that's my plan, did you do it? How's it working out, I don't see any downside. .

 

[BigLungs]

Thanks, that's my plan, did you do it? How's it working out, I don't see any downside. .

It's how I did mine, it's working just fine. It's easy to adjust, although I tend to keep the same atty on so no need.

Edit
I tighten the positive screw all the way down (without damaging the o-ring.)

When I need to adjust the length I loosen the ss nut on the end (so the washer with the positive wire soldered to it can spin freely) and then loosen or tighten the delrin insert. This allows all the adjusting to be done from the bottom.

Just back the delrin insert out, tighten your atomizer down to where you want it, then screw the delrin insert back down and tighten the ss nut.

 

[OthatGuy]

Awesome, thanks bud!

 

[Buckster]

Looking at either the mech Peko or regulated gdna. how hard is the gdna to build? Not sure my soldering skills are up for the task. Does the regulated device work so much better that I would be crazy not to try building it?

 

[OthatGuy]

It's not hard, there's very good instructions, I'm usually a mech guy, I prefer to run around 0.3ohm, and the dna40 is my first regulated device besides a provari, I gotta say not only an I very impressed with it, I'm just as happy!

 

[SeaNap]

Question: when soldering the DNA 40 up/down buttons, we can use a common - correct? Mamu diagram shows up+ down+ down- and the switches jumpered at the switch, but rossums build shows both + and - for each switch.

Also I think there's an error in the build doc in the DNA 40 wire size picture. It shows up+ as yellow and down+ as blue and does not account for the common - . I think both up/down + should be yellow, and up/down - would be blue.

Looking at either the mech Peko or regulated gdna. how hard is the gdna to build? Not sure my soldering skills are up for the task. Does the regulated device work so much better that I would be crazy not to try building it?

Get a nice soldering iron, I use, and recommend, a Weller WES51. It makes all soldering a breeze, and it's actually quite enjoyable build.


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[tiburonfirst]

this is ty's diagram -

this works for gdeal's bf

 

[tiburonfirst]

did i carry the right pic, gdeal?

 

[SeaNap]

this is ty's diagram -

this works for gdeal's bf

Yep that's the pic I was talking about, and that's how I wired it but I was just wondering if each switch needed to have its own +/- like Rossum wired in his pic and how the verbiage of the build doc states.



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[SeaNap]

Oh and now that I FINALLY dug into the coop kit I have to say Thank You Tibs! This kit looks tedious to put together and I appreciate the work you did!


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[Rossum]

Yep that's the pic I was talking about, and that's how I wired it but I was just wondering if each switch needed to have its own +/- like Rossum wired in his pic and how the verbiage of the build doc states.

I'm confident you can common the negative side of the Up/Down switches as shown in ty's diagram. Take a meter to the board and you'll see they're common on the board.

B - is common with atty GND.
B + is common with Fire +.
Up/Down - is common with atty Out (which is actually negative).

 

[mikepetro]

Yep that's the pic I was talking about, and that's how I wired it but I was just wondering if each switch needed to have its own +/- like Rossum wired in his pic and how the verbiage of the build doc states.



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Either method works, its just 2 different ways of doing it. TY's method saves having to solder a wire onto the board. Its a little harder to grasp though for someone without any electronics training.