Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[KurrptSenate]

if that's the case that's great

but I can't imagine it would be a good feeling to know someone else is profiting from your design. I didn't see anything else on that site

 

[finagle69]

if that's the case that's great

but I can't imagine it would be a good feeling to know someone else is profiting from your design. I didn't see anything else on that site

I'm sure he's fine with it.

 

[Rossum]

but I can't imagine it would be a good feeling to know someone else is profiting from your design.

Depends on the circumstances. I'm reasonably confident he has no objection to this. My impression is that these designs are a hobby for gdeal, that he has another (more lucrative) means of making a living, and that he'd like to see as many people as possible be able to use the mods he's designing.

 

[tiburonfirst]

I thing its a good idea. Parts on demand. Co-ops, if and when they happen can take months especially with the long lead time on a couple of the parts. (either custom or out of stock) And they are a ton of work.

But this doesnt mean that there cant be additional co-ops if someone is willing to run them. I post all the parts in the build docs. You can still buy them by yourself as well.

ahem! i'm willing to do a co-op for a sxs!

 

[Alexander Mundy]

if that's the case that's great

but I can't imagine it would be a good feeling to know someone else is profiting from your design. I didn't see anything else on that site

As a small business owner and a Beta tester whom has purchased the parts myself I can tell you that there isn't any profit there. I would be loosing money to sell at those prices. Time = money and overhead of website, commerce, etc. That is why i have never sold MM to anyone, it just wouldn't be profitable. (Although time allowing I have given some freely without even asking shipping.) Its a tough world out there and with the added cost of government sticking it to the small business owner we aren't driving Ferraris. (At least all the ones I personally know whom are honest and don't come from money)

 

[BlueridgeDog]

if that's the case that's great

but I can't imagine it would be a good feeling to know someone else is profiting from your design. I didn't see anything else on that site

By logic, since his designs have only been on commercial 3d sites, other web sites that point to his 3d store are only driving people that need the items his way....which is probably moot as these appear to be more a labor of love and interest in the community than a business venture.

 

[KurrptSenate]

then it's all gravy baby

 

[BobC]

do you mean to imply i wasn't fast enough with the counting????????????

Never Tibs, I always tell ya, you're the best counter on ECF

 

[tiburonfirst]

Never Tibs, I always tell ya, you're the best counter on ECF

much, much better!

 

[BobC]

By logic, since his designs have only been on commercial 3d sites, other web sites that point to his 3d store are only driving people that need the items his way....which is probably moot as these appear to be more a labor of love and interest in the community than a business venture.

Again, this is not a business for George,

 

[KurrptSenate]

Guys this is a modding forum and a modding thread for a mod. Lets stay on topic. There should be no discussion of buying or selling anything here per ECF rules.

That said, just for clarity..I already mentioned that I am okay with that site selling parts. He is just providing a service for a fee. The guy running it is not a member of ECF (yet) and is not on the beta team. I have suggested to them that they should join ECF, become a supplier and start a supplier thread. But that is up to them, so we will see.

Overall, I think having parts readily available is a good thing if you want a parts kit quickly. If you dont want the convenience of getting a parts kit there or like his price, you can start an interest thread here in the co-op section (glad to help out) or if you want, just buy all the parts yourself. I include vendor links in all the build docs.

With that said, I need to go finish the v4.2 build and build doc, so its back to the soldering station for me. Hopefully I get a break on RL stuff and get this together quickly.

My DNA 40 should be here this week. Can't wait to order the 3d parts

 

[BlueridgeDog]

My DNA 40 should be here this week. Can't wait to order the 3d parts

Agree! Ready for 4.2.

 

[Vince159]

Agree! Ready for 4.2.

Me Too!

 

[Kataphraktos]

By logic, since his designs have only been on commercial 3d sites, other web sites that point to his 3d store are only driving people that need the items his way....which is probably moot as these appear to be more a labor of love and interest in the community than a business venture.

I can assure you, aside from the thousands of bucks the beta team has spent in the race to be the first to build a new version as soon as gdeal posts one for us to build, we have all sent out hundreds of dollars worth of parts to countless people to facilitate completion of mods. Add to that the co-ops run by Proetus, Tibs, drunk_j, and myself - and you begin to get a sense of the Herculean efforts made by a large group of people to get hundreds of these mods into the hands of folks here.

 

[Tbev]

Please remember, the co-op kits were done at zero markup - what you paid is what it cost, including fees, as per co-op rules. (actually, it ended up costing me about $20 to run that co-op, but that's another story)

More feeders in the world makes it a better place!

 

[BobC]

If anybody is looking for quality a soldering iron, this one is currently on sale. Its the best price I have seen to date.. FRYS.com.|.American Hakko

I have one and it has flawless performance.

Now you know what to get me for my birthday

 

[kingdal]

Can I ask you guys for some help? I was building my second gdna a few weeks ago. Got everything wired up, put the battery in to test, heard a whine, battery started sparking, smell of burnt electronics in the air. I pulled out my batt and was pretty sure I had burned out my board. At the time I thought I had a short in the 510 screw, so today I received a new DNA40 board, wired it up, checked the 510 screw to make sure it was insulated and tried again. I put in the battery and the same thing happened. Sparking, battery got hot fast but because I was ready for it, I pulled it out before I started smelling the burnt electronics.

So my question is, how do I know where the problem is? Just to try and isolate the problem, I connected the entire assembled top cap portion to my other gdna. it fired up fine, no trouble. So I figure the problem is in the way the board is wired. I took another look at the build doc and I could swear my wiring is right. i'm attaching some pics to get some opinions. I'm really lost so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

EDIT: Ok i must have gone cross eyed comparing my board to the wiring diagram. I figured out the battery is wired to the wrong hole. Yep I guess that would do it Trying again tomorrow. If anyone sees anything else wrong, would appreciate any comments. Thanks

 

[Merlin21]

So here is the question.... Do you go for DNA 25 or do you go for the DNA 40 board? One of the reasons I never bought a 100 watt box is I will never get even close to going that high. I enjoy a 0.4-0.5 ohm coil in a RM2 on my Peko that should get in the 30 watt ballpark. So with a DNA 25 I could just do a higher ohm build and crank it up for a warmer vape. Am i missing anything?

 

[Steamer861]

NI200 builds usually require more power compared to Kanthol. So better to have 40 watts and not need it all than to have 25 and need more!
I usually build no lower than .7, most of the time 1.2 with Kanthol and with nickel I find my self using 25 to 30 watts

So here is the question.... Do you go for DNA 25 or do you go for the DNA 40 board? One of the reasons I never bought a 100 watt box is I will never get even close to going that high. I enjoy a 0.4-0.5 ohm coil in a RM2 on my Peko that should get in the 30 watt ballpark. So with a DNA 25 I could just do a higher ohm build and crank it up for a warmer vape. Am i missing anything?

 

[BobC]

NI200 builds usually require more power compared to Kanthol. So better to have 40 watts and not need it all than to have 25 and need more!
I usually build no lower than .7, most of the time 1.2 with Kanthol and with nickel I find my self using 25 to 30 watts

Most of my NI200 single coil builds don't require more then 20 Watts @ .13 ohms
Duals @.09 -.11 bring me to 25-30 watts