Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[dhaiken]

Can I ask you guys for some help? I was building my second gdna a few weeks ago. Got everything wired up, put the battery in to test, heard a whine, battery started sparking, smell of burnt electronics in the air. I pulled out my batt and was pretty sure I had burned out my board. At the time I thought I had a short in the 510 screw, so today I received a new DNA40 board, wired it up, checked the 510 screw to make sure it was insulated and tried again. I put in the battery and the same thing happened. Sparking, battery got hot fast but because I was ready for it, I pulled it out before I started smelling the burnt electronics.

So my question is, how do I know where the problem is? Just to try and isolate the problem, I connected the entire assembled top cap portion to my other gdna. it fired up fine, no trouble. So I figure the problem is in the way the board is wired. I took another look at the build doc and I could swear my wiring is right. i'm attaching some pics to get some opinions. I'm really lost so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

EDIT: Ok i must have gone cross eyed comparing my board to the wiring diagram. I figured out the battery is wired to the wrong hole. Yep I guess that would do it Trying again tomorrow. If anyone sees anything else wrong, would appreciate any comments. Thanks

I am betting that board is fried as well.
Hope not for your sake.

 

[kingdal]

Ok here's the latest in my ongoing saga. Soldered the battery to the right hole, tested...it's alive. I dry fit everything together, connected the top cap, screwed in an atty, it all works to my relief. I even changed the orientation of the screen and adjusted wattage to fire a dual coil atty. All good. So i took everything apart and started gluing everything that needed gluing. Put everything back together, hit the switch and...nothing. At first I thought the bottom shell was too long and to eliminate that, i took the top and middle frame and connected the top cap assembly directly to the bottom connectors. Still nothing. Until I put an atty on and burned my finger on it while hitting the button. So at least I know the board works. Except the screen is dead. I thought maybe it inadvertently went into stealth mode but the data sheet says error and lock messages will be shown even in stealth mode. Just to be sure, I tried (and still trying) to reverse the stealth mode thing but nothing.

I gotta say, I'm getting real frustrated. So close and to have it fail now, this build feels more like magic than science. I had an easy time with the first one but this one feels jinxed lol. I cant figure out what the heck is going on. Anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Thanks

 

[Tbev]

Check your ground from the board...both ends of the wire.

 

[Steamer861]

Sorry to hear about your luck this time
I have had builds go terribly wrong also, at least your chip is not a complete right off If your small screen is not working you can send it in to Evolv for 10.00 and have it replaced When I had builds go wrong I start over, pull the chip, test it on a test board and go from there. On a positive note, mine all worked out for me in the end.
I'm sure it will for you to

Ok here's the latest in my ongoing saga. Soldered the battery to the right hole, tested...it's alive. I dry fit everything together, connected the top cap, screwed in an atty, it all works to my relief. I even changed the orientation of the screen and adjusted wattage to fire a dual coil atty. All good. So i took everything apart and started gluing everything that needed gluing. Put everything back together, hit the switch and...nothing. At first I thought the bottom shell was too long and to eliminate that, i took the top and middle frame and connected the top cap assembly directly to the bottom connectors. Still nothing. Until I put an atty on and burned my finger on it while hitting the button. So at least I know the board works. Except the screen is dead. I thought maybe it inadvertently went into stealth mode but the data sheet says error and lock messages will be shown even in stealth mode. Just to be sure, I tried (and still trying) to reverse the stealth mode thing but nothing.

I gotta say, I'm getting real frustrated. So close and to have it fail now, this build feels more like magic than science. I had an easy time with the first one but this one feels jinxed lol. I cant figure out what the heck is going on. Anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Thanks

 

[Podunk Steam]

I think Shapesways might have finally come around with providing the quality prints they were doing before last year's cluster f.

I'm not so sure about that. They've cost me a lot of time and effort with lame pre-print checks they keep botching. A partner and myself have a Shapeways shop with about 20 items that could be printed and I closed the shop so I wouldn't get a bad rep pinned on me.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Ok here's the latest in my ongoing saga. Soldered the battery to the right hole, tested...it's alive. I dry fit everything together, connected the top cap, screwed in an atty, it all works to my relief. I even changed the orientation of the screen and adjusted wattage to fire a dual coil atty. All good. So i took everything apart and started gluing everything that needed gluing. Put everything back together, hit the switch and...nothing. At first I thought the bottom shell was too long and to eliminate that, i took the top and middle frame and connected the top cap assembly directly to the bottom connectors. Still nothing. Until I put an atty on and burned my finger on it while hitting the button. So at least I know the board works. Except the screen is dead. I thought maybe it inadvertently went into stealth mode but the data sheet says error and lock messages will be shown even in stealth mode. Just to be sure, I tried (and still trying) to reverse the stealth mode thing but nothing.

I gotta say, I'm getting real frustrated. So close and to have it fail now, this build feels more like magic than science. I had an easy time with the first one but this one feels jinxed lol. I cant figure out what the heck is going on. Anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Thanks

Do your internals slide in and out freely? I busted a screen pulling one apart. The internals at the bottom outsides were on the tight side and when pulling upward with some force it let go but then caught part way up. The momentum from it letting go along with getting caught part way up flexed the bottom and broke the screen by the ribbon connection. Now I make sure and sand the bottom circumference of the internals if there is any friction with the inside of the body.

 

[Vince159]

Well, I'm gonna ask the $64,000; Is there a ball park date for the 4.2 to become available to print on Sculpteo? I've been faithfully checking the status daily, and it occurred to me...Why not ask

 

[BobC]

Too long a wait, make it 7:30

 

[Merlin21]

Well, I'm gonna ask the $64,000; Is there a ball park date for the 4.2 to become available to print on Sculpteo? I've been faithfully checking the status daily, and it occurred to me...Why not ask

Have to say I am guilty as well for checking daily

How does 8PM tonight sound?

Words can't describe how that sounds so ....

 

[Vince159]

How does 8PM tonight sound?

OH... Wow, that sounds incredibly cool and awesome! I'll be on standby with credit card in hand

 

[Vince159]

Question for you gdeal, on Sculpteo there's 4.2 for lrg screen, and sm screen, then there's on titled "body parts" for both lrg and sm screens; could you explain what body parts is?

 

[kingdal]

Do your internals slide in and out freely? I busted a screen pulling one apart. The internals at the bottom outsides were on the tight side and when pulling upward with some force it let go but then caught part way up. The momentum from it letting go along with getting caught part way up flexed the bottom and broke the screen by the ribbon connection. Now I make sure and sand the bottom circumference of the internals if there is any friction with the inside of the body.

Interestingly, when I was dismantling the board from the frame, the screen disconnected. Just fell off. So thanks for that tip, i know what watch out for next time. At any rate, I'm over the frustration bit. Just completed my 2d gdna with a new chip. All is good

Now i need to pull the epoxied connectors from the old frame in preparation for a new chip. How do I this without damaging anything?

 

[Vince159]

The body (body parts - ie the outside top cap and main body) It can be used for either the large screen or small screen dna. Its independent of screen size. The internals and baseplate are dependent on the screen size.

Thank you. Those pics look great. Masterful work.

 

[Merlin21]

Order DNA 40 board - Check
Order Kit - Check
Going to be sleeping on the couch for a while - Check

Waiting to see if I can get a 20% off code to order Shell and internals

Thank you GDeal and Beta testers for taking the time out of your personal lives to get this done.

What are the differences between the 3.1 and 4.2? I see there is a new lip around the fire button, never owned a 3.1 but was just curious

 

[moresalt]

Just got the email from livewire so I figured that the 4.2 was released on sculpteo....yup ordered 2. 1 large & 1 small. Oh and 2 parts kits from livewire. Unfortunately, I have enough parts for maybe 5 V3.1. And I still have 2 3.1's to paint yet. Now I'm going to have to order more extra parts for the 4.2

Gdeal, do you have any plans to make extra top caps & internals available like the 3.1? Not that I need them. I guess that I am pretty happy with the top caps for the 3.1, but I now have 4 extras.

 

[Vince159]

Got my order placed at Sculpteo, PLUS I saved about $25 bucks when I chose to let the order take a week or so longer; I'll still have it during the last week of March! What a deal. Thanks very much Gdeal! I sure picked the right day to ask about the release date

 

[RickCain]

SWEET!!!!

Glad to see all is live (no pun intended)...

Grabbed a V4.2 hardware with extra bottle and a white polished body. Amazing you can save so much by allowing 2 weeks for the parts from Sculpteo~!

Now if my DNA40's come from the co-op at the same time as all the goods I will be in heaven

 

[moresalt]

Sure, you want the same combo model as before. So you can just swap tops?

Yup, so when I wear the button down to the plastic I would have another top while repainting the first one...and no I don't do ceracote. I've spent enough on paints and sundries so now I have more invested in the painting than I do in the GDNA's.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Looks like a nice squonker!

I think they know it and are charging a big premium.

IMO 3D printing is very expensive compared to injection molding although the injection molding is a very large buy in expense.

 

[Vince159]

Yup, so when I wear the button down to the plastic I would have another top while repainting the first one...and no I don't do ceracote. I've spent enough on paints and sundries so now I have more invested in the painting than I do in the GDNA's.

I brush applied about ten layers of sealant to the top of my button. It won't be showing signs of wear for a looong time.