Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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I have had that squonking problem sometimes. It seems to happen when a partial vacuum builds up in the top of the bottle. I cover the air hole/s and blow through the drip tip. Some bubbles go up in the bottle and it starts squonking just fine. If the atomizer doesn't have air holes that can be completely sealed with a finger I just loosen the bottle cap and put it back on to relieve the vacuum.
Adding water to thin my juice helps with this too.
Adding water to thin my juice helps with this too.
I've been away from the thread for a while.
I'm wanting to do some service on my 3.1 Printed Bottom Feeder and need to disassemble the innards. Yes...superglue on the Deans connectors and magnet. I've read that acetone is helpful and obtains some (nail polish remover). I had hoped it might work in a solvent like manner, but I suspect it is more for surface release. I've not made progress towards getting the inner works apart by liberally applying acetone to the Deans connectors and magnet.
Hints, tips and suggestions welcomed.
I'm wanting to do some service on my 3.1 Printed Bottom Feeder and need to disassemble the innards. Yes...superglue on the Deans connectors and magnet. I've read that acetone is helpful and obtains some (nail polish remover). I had hoped it might work in a solvent like manner, but I suspect it is more for surface release. I've not made progress towards getting the inner works apart by liberally applying acetone to the Deans connectors and magnet.
Hints, tips and suggestions welcomed.
I used a sharp blade to cut the half round sections off. Then glued them back in place for reassembly.
I've used an Exacto knife combined with acetone to gently cut along the edges between deans and plastic. It takes a loooong time, though, and a lot of care as you gently poke the tip of the knife between the 3D material and the deans, but they came out with zero plastic lost and the deans intact.
I only glue (and sparingly) the dean's and magnet to the main (bottom of the 3 layers) section. Never had any problems with them that way and disassembly is simple.
deans connectors and all? I guess you'd have to replace the connectors?
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Soaked in acetone..? How long a soak did you do? That might do the trick if the acetone doesn't react with other materials. Tnx!
I guess the deans connectors would be ok, they're hard plastic and metal, I was thinking the 3d plastic might disintegrate, but apparently not. Thanks dheiken.
I wonder what the composition of the adhesive used in the 3d printing process is...time for another google.
I wonder what the composition of the adhesive used in the 3d printing process is...time for another google.
Mike Pietro had a list of chemicals and their effect on the printed parts. If I remember correctly acetone was safe but isopropyl dangerous. Not sure though.
This form of 3D printing fuses small grains of Nylon together with a laser so no adhesive and the resulting item is Nylon through and through.
Actually I forgot it and let it sit until the Acetone evaporated. Had to soak it again to soften it back up.
No harm to the plastic, but it did make the black dye fade significantly.
I saw yours was white so I didn't bother to mention it, but should have for others benefit.
An overnight soak of the top end in a narrow glass with enough Acetone to cover the parts to be removed did the job. Thanks, dhaiken and others who offed thoughts.
I was thinking about tackling the mod this week and realized I'm never going to do it. I have had all the parts for 2 months now along with enough extras for another 20. It would be great if I could pass these parts off to someone that actually will use them in my area for close to what I spent. I should of known myself better.
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