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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
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just recently switched from ego and a pro tank to a peko with a zennith, on the first draw, i said "THIS is what vaping is supposed to be"
I love the warmth, the clouds are a plus too....
I love the warmth, the clouds are a plus too....
Because it's SO nice!. Really, I like it because I love the jolt it gives, and I prefer a warmer vape. I remember back in my Ego or MVP days, I'd go through maybe 5 or 6ml of juice and could go a couple days between charges. Now, I can do 5ml before breakfast and check my batteries at lunch!
None of that appeals to me in the least. Guess that's why we're all different.
Yup, if we all liked the same thing, there wouldn't be such a nice variety of goodies out thereNone of that appeals to me in the least. Guess that's why we're all different.
.Well, after this weekend, I am officially too stupid for even the Peko....
I replaced the magnets on my button with the spring... Did this Friday evening...
Ever since, the darn thing would fire intermittently. Like I would be pushing the fire button and it would be working for like half a second and then i would go to take a draw, and it would quit. Almost as though my Peko was saying "Im ready, get a vape..." "SIKE!!!!" I was just about ready to toss the thing across the room....
So by the time i got a chance to fix it, it was sunday and turns out the nut that holds the solder lug to the firing pin... I put the nut on before I put on the soldering lug, hence when i pushed the button, most of the times it just moved the head of the firing pin down, but broke connection with the soldering lug, but occassionally, the soldering lug would get caught on a screw thread and would travel with the firing pin successfully make the connection until it slipped off the thread and broke the connection again....
To go from a Peko running a dual coil total .3 ohms back to a freaking Ego with a protank on it for my entire memorial day weekend was complete crap....
Now, i know why so many people have more than one Peko... time to get a back up....
I replaced the magnets on my button with the spring... Did this Friday evening...
Ever since, the darn thing would fire intermittently. Like I would be pushing the fire button and it would be working for like half a second and then i would go to take a draw, and it would quit. Almost as though my Peko was saying "Im ready, get a vape..." "SIKE!!!!" I was just about ready to toss the thing across the room....
So by the time i got a chance to fix it, it was sunday and turns out the nut that holds the solder lug to the firing pin... I put the nut on before I put on the soldering lug, hence when i pushed the button, most of the times it just moved the head of the firing pin down, but broke connection with the soldering lug, but occassionally, the soldering lug would get caught on a screw thread and would travel with the firing pin successfully make the connection until it slipped off the thread and broke the connection again....
To go from a Peko running a dual coil total .3 ohms back to a freaking Ego with a protank on it for my entire memorial day weekend was complete crap....
Now, i know why so many people have more than one Peko... time to get a back up....
Dethnode - I 120% represent Pekos, i was a solid Reo user and once I built my first Peko I was amazed. The featherweight body and awesome performance had me hooked. Not to mention the whole design, being rounded off and a front sqounk hole, is also awesome! The one thing I hated about Reo was the blocky design and side sqounk hole.
So that being said, i sold all my Reos after using my Peko only for a few days. Now I have 4 running pekos and 1 Gdna with dna40.
I did NOT buy 4 Peko because the other ones arent reliable.. I bought them because i enjoy building them/ tinkering, and they hit HARD. Ever since building my first, ive never took one out and about and had it fail on me. Their awesome mods and Gdeal is my hero!
Just saying Dethnode, dont let your issue ruin it for these little printed beauties.. Get that issue fixed and make sure everything is nice and tight and youll never need a back up. That is, unless your like me and are just addicted to Pekos and anything gdeal creates!
;-)
-M
So that being said, i sold all my Reos after using my Peko only for a few days. Now I have 4 running pekos and 1 Gdna with dna40.
I did NOT buy 4 Peko because the other ones arent reliable.. I bought them because i enjoy building them/ tinkering, and they hit HARD. Ever since building my first, ive never took one out and about and had it fail on me. Their awesome mods and Gdeal is my hero!
Just saying Dethnode, dont let your issue ruin it for these little printed beauties.. Get that issue fixed and make sure everything is nice and tight and youll never need a back up. That is, unless your like me and are just addicted to Pekos and anything gdeal creates!
;-)
-M
oh, dont get me wrong, I love my peko, and would never consider anything but a peko, or same form/fashion of bf backup....
Since you have pekos and a dna40, can you contrast and compare them for me????
I was thinking about getting the Gdeal DNA40 as a second device, but I really want to get it in a 26650 version, or even better perhaps the anticipated sx350 version of the gdeal mod.....
Since you have pekos and a dna40, can you contrast and compare them for me????
I was thinking about getting the Gdeal DNA40 as a second device, but I really want to get it in a 26650 version, or even better perhaps the anticipated sx350 version of the gdeal mod.....
Does anyone use loctite or another thread locker on any off the threads? My only concern is the conductivity of the loctite.
The nuts on the brass rod seem to come loose more often on my 26650 than 18650... Love my Peko's!
The nuts on the brass rod seem to come loose more often on my 26650 than 18650... Love my Peko's!
I don't know about using locktite, but I think I read about some using a small amount t of solder. I don't have the 26650 yet, but I have 3 18650s and one yet to build and haven't had a bit of problems with those ones.
I considered solder, but was looking for something that would allow for easier disassembly... May just convert the rod to wire
It wouldn't take but just a little spot of solder to prevent it from loosening. If you needed to dismantle, just reheat and a little solder wick and you're good to go.
If you get everything tightened properly it shouodn't come loose.
The Peko is a straight up simple mod that always performs. The DNA also performs well but i will say, if you cant solder, and solder well, this build is not for you. Its ALOT of delicate soldering. As to which device I would choose, i couldnt pick just one. I like both, but the DNA has some awesome features, temp control being the big one. And if my chip ever fails I do have an extra that I got from mike petros last co op.
-M
Does anyone know the size of nut that goes on the positive post of the 510? I spent all day painting and fitting my 26650 to get all the way down to securing the positive connection only to get the wrong size in the kit. Just my luck
If I am following the instructions right, what makes sure there is a good connection from the negative firing button to the bolt/extension? It appears to just float....
If I am following the instructions right, what makes sure there is a good connection from the negative firing button to the bolt/extension? It appears to just float....
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Should be 6-32Does anyone know the size of nut that goes on the positive post of the 510? I spent all day painting and fitting my 26650 to get all the way down to securing the positive connection only to get the wrong size in the kit. Just my luck
I'd also like to get a nut for the other fire button so if the nut and bolt is know I can switch between the two to find which one I like best.
The nut that goes on the vented screw is 6-32.
The negative fire pin screw is secured by a 3mm brass nut on the other side of the small solder lug. That solder lug is secure with the mini-nut combo to the large solder lug. The large solder lug is secured with the large brass nut that comes with the 510 connector.
Now it makes sense... I was saving that last brass nut for the vented 6-32 screw when it was to go on the button. Doh.
Livewire might want to check their kits as mine was short one nut. A quick trip to Home Depot will fix this
Good news, Home Depot has the 6-32 nut I needed. Having serious issues with the button though....
If I am doing this right, I can not get the negative to press down (vertically) to fire the mod. It is like the two connection ends are fighting each other. My guess would be to make off-sets to compensation for this but want to ask if anyone has pictures of their 26650 button assembly.
Can't believe I am having more problems with a Peko than a GNDA (went together perfect). It is all user error which makes it worse......
If I am doing this right, I can not get the negative to press down (vertically) to fire the mod. It is like the two connection ends are fighting each other. My guess would be to make off-sets to compensation for this but want to ask if anyone has pictures of their 26650 button assembly.
Can't believe I am having more problems with a Peko than a GNDA (went together perfect). It is all user error which makes it worse......
The button on the 18650 model has a lock/adjustment feature. Turned all the way clockwise is locked, turned all the way anti-clockwise is auto-fire. It's probably the same on the 26650
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