Edit: Noticed the comment about the tab being a "safety device" posted while I was composing this post. It is not designed as such.
Hence the quotes. Regardless, it functions as described.
Peki or Pekae?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Edit: Noticed the comment about the tab being a "safety device" posted while I was composing this post. It is not designed as such.
Peki or Pekae?
Guys, need some advice. I painted 2 pekos and a couple more GDNAs and I've come to the conclusion that I suck at painting. So now I'm thinking my next peko is probably going to be just a simple colored shell from Sculpteo. What's the best way of keeping this protected? I've read something about polyurethane but I also read that these should be brushed on? Is there anything I can use that I can spray on?
Thanks
I've done this as well! Cut a spare spring in half and used on both my Pekos, nothing fancy, just wedged them in there and they stay put just fine. Battery nice and snug!I had a little play on battery while pressing button , it was the battery tab bending
Here is my redneck fix for it ( it also help tab moving up and down too much therefore deformation of it ;
![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Havent really thought about it, but a smaller version with squonk pass through could be cool. Have you considered something like this? (too techy?)
Amazon.com: Universal Cell Phone Flip Case fits most Prepaid Phones - Black: Cell Phones & Accessories
Hey B. Nice mod! I like those flames! Unfortunately, shipping my mods off isnt an option for me at this point. When you say any clear coat, you're not just talking about the Krylon Matte or Glossy are you? Any particular coating you recommend for DIYers?
The PeKo I use the most is also my original (v1.0) beta. Like yours, it has virtually no space for the positive tab to flex. However, I've done some unintentional drop tests on my gDNA and the first such test bent the tab (a different tab) quite a bit, to the point where the battery rattled and the mod wouldn't fire. That convinced me that a tab with enough room under it to exceed it's elastic limit should have a buffer to prevent exceeding that limit. Here's my quick & dirty buffer:I see battery contact damage as something that the design can't account for unless only a very specific battery were called out for. Let me explain my reasoning. I am in construction and work 60 to over 80 hours a week. <yes over 80 sometimes. I have 2 Pekos (Peki?) that are my at work ADV devices, one being my original beta unit which is my favorite although the finish looks like hell after all the abuse and the other is my backup. I even managed to snap off an RM2 with the thread part still in the 510 of the beta and have not had a contact failure. Here is what I see is the difference. The beta has the original battery tab, but it is smashed darn near flush with the Nylon bottom of the internals.
![]()
This is because the beta units were a hair shorter and the current ones were made a little taller to allow for more battery selection. I use HE2 flat top batteries so the tab has very little room to move any more than it is already and I have never had to bend it back up which will induce work hardening at the bend each time it is permanently bent either way.
![]()
A very small bend like when I drop mine does not induce a permanent change in the metal so it will not cause work hardening. If you are experiencing contact failure due to having to re-bend the contact I would suggest limiting the travel of the contact to a minimum by using flat top batteries and mod something to limit the travel of the battery downward. Perhaps modded Nylon washer(s) from the hardware store glued to the bottom around the contact.
Edit: Noticed the comment about the tab being a "safety device" posted while I was composing this post. It is not designed as such.
His description of trap simply means put the one end of the spring into your fire button, the other side of spring just lays on top of your mod shell, make sure its seated properly and then tighten everything up.Morning all, could some kind soul possibly help me out. I am at a loss and I tried working on this till like 4am and I am so frustrated.
The Peko I got was great and then I took it apart as I was going to see about painting it. Well I decided to hold off on painting and I can not for the life of me get this fire button figured out. I should have probably just left it alone as I have arthritis in my hands. I can not figure out what his instructions are saying.
" Place the spring (or magnets) into the button around the button nut. Screw button nut onto the contact screw trapping the spring (magnets). If you use magnets make sure they are opposed and repelling each other. You can put an o-ring around the button nut first to slightly decrease the available travel in the button, so the magnets increase the repulsion force by being forced closer together."
TRAP what??? am I supposed to try and trap one end of the spring between the bolt and top nut or what? I can't figure it out and I'm frustrated and ticked off and my hands are swollen now..............sigh, sorry to vent. It's just stupid that 100's of people are putting these together and I can't seem to get it. The fire pin does not go up or down either when I turn the button left or right. Something is wrong and I can't figure out why.
I thought maybe I should try finding some magnets instead but he still says to trap those too and I can't figure out he means.![]()
Thank you to anyone that might be able to help me with this.![]()
Okay, so I do now have it firing ( thank you again ) but it will not adjust up or down and the button is very stiff. I am thinking the spring might the issue. Is there a place I can buy just a new spring ( This one looks to be a little stretched out ) That or does someone happen to know what sized magnets I can use or where I might be able to buy them? Thank you again for all the help. It's really an awesome little mod and I have very small hands so it is the perfect size![]()