Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

kingdal

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 13, 2012
585
668
The Far Side
Guys, need some advice. I painted 2 pekos and a couple more GDNAs and I've come to the conclusion that I suck at painting. So now I'm thinking my next peko is probably going to be just a simple colored shell from Sculpteo. What's the best way of keeping this protected? I've read something about polyurethane but I also read that these should be brushed on? Is there anything I can use that I can spray on?

Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: B2L

B2L

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
7,844
45,313
Jacksonville, FL
Guys, need some advice. I painted 2 pekos and a couple more GDNAs and I've come to the conclusion that I suck at painting. So now I'm thinking my next peko is probably going to be just a simple colored shell from Sculpteo. What's the best way of keeping this protected? I've read something about polyurethane but I also read that these should be brushed on? Is there anything I can use that I can spray on?

Thanks

I pretty much came to the same conclusion. You can use any clear coat from matte to glossy depending on the look/feel your going for. I've tried several and found them to all be pretty equal.

Some other options would be to send it off for a paint job. Drunk_J and Dready Mark are both known for their finishes, I'm not sure if they are doing send ins but you could contact them and see.

My last one I sent to Darren at OCD mods for a Cerakote finish which I am very happy with. After several weeks now of pocket carry it still looks just like the day I got it, it seems as if it's going to hold up for a long time. The pic doesn't really do it justice.

image.jpg
 

B2L

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
7,844
45,313
Jacksonville, FL
I used the Krylon matte on that mod when I got it, it was a black polished from Sculpteo, intending to just seal it and go. I ended up, probably user error, with a really cloudy finish. That's when I decided to send it off.

The one I had the best luck with, I don't remember the name now, was a clear coat automotive finish spray I picked up at Auto Zone. I'll find the can and edit this post when I can get out to the workshop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kingdal

junquedujour

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 14, 2011
892
805
southwest misery
@gdeal - ya ever think about adding something like this to the design?
Omni 22 - Eclyp

i bought some of them, but with the big spacer and having to use the 510 adapter, it just adds too much bulk for my liking plus it made my peko leaky. as a non-male, i really like the idea of a clip since *pocketing* a mod is just not comfortable or flattering. ;-D
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

rudy4653

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 2, 2012
2,481
10,129
CT
I had a little play on battery while pressing button , it was the battery tab bending
Here is my redneck fix for it ( it also help tab moving up and down too much therefore deformation of it ;
b48f276fcf65663b428afc2615c95e98.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've done this as well! Cut a spare spring in half and used on both my Pekos, nothing fancy, just wedged them in there and they stay put just fine. Battery nice and snug!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SkinyFatMan

junquedujour

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 14, 2011
892
805
southwest misery
Havent really thought about it, but a smaller version with squonk pass through could be cool. Have you considered something like this? (too techy?)

Amazon.com: Universal Cell Phone Flip Case fits most Prepaid Phones - Black: Cell Phones & Accessories

i dug thru my *junque* and did find an old cell phone case, but it has a top flap which pushes the button when closed. so i have to cut it off or keep searching. the peko actually fits in the case with room to spare...
 
  • Like
Reactions: muzichead

Moxienator

Super Squonker
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2014
932
2,346
Central Mass
Hey B. Nice mod! I like those flames! Unfortunately, shipping my mods off isnt an option for me at this point. When you say any clear coat, you're not just talking about the Krylon Matte or Glossy are you? Any particular coating you recommend for DIYers?

I used spray shellac. it has held up reasonably well after almost 6 months of constant use....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: kingdal

Rossum

Eleutheromaniac
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 14, 2013
16,081
105,232
SE PA
I see battery contact damage as something that the design can't account for unless only a very specific battery were called out for. Let me explain my reasoning. I am in construction and work 60 to over 80 hours a week. <yes over 80 sometimes. I have 2 Pekos (Peki?) that are my at work ADV devices, one being my original beta unit which is my favorite although the finish looks like hell after all the abuse and the other is my backup. I even managed to snap off an RM2 with the thread part still in the 510 of the beta and have not had a contact failure. Here is what I see is the difference. The beta has the original battery tab, but it is smashed darn near flush with the Nylon bottom of the internals.

2015-06-142013.09.15_zps2mqxl5di.jpg


This is because the beta units were a hair shorter and the current ones were made a little taller to allow for more battery selection. I use HE2 flat top batteries so the tab has very little room to move any more than it is already and I have never had to bend it back up which will induce work hardening at the bend each time it is permanently bent either way.

2015-06-14%2013.36.44_zpsdgs34wwy.jpg


A very small bend like when I drop mine does not induce a permanent change in the metal so it will not cause work hardening. If you are experiencing contact failure due to having to re-bend the contact I would suggest limiting the travel of the contact to a minimum by using flat top batteries and mod something to limit the travel of the battery downward. Perhaps modded Nylon washer(s) from the hardware store glued to the bottom around the contact.

Edit: Noticed the comment about the tab being a "safety device" posted while I was composing this post. It is not designed as such.
The PeKo I use the most is also my original (v1.0) beta. Like yours, it has virtually no space for the positive tab to flex. However, I've done some unintentional drop tests on my gDNA and the first such test bent the tab (a different tab) quite a bit, to the point where the battery rattled and the mod wouldn't fire. That convinced me that a tab with enough room under it to exceed it's elastic limit should have a buffer to prevent exceeding that limit. Here's my quick & dirty buffer:

50hdajm.jpg


Yep, some rolled up masking tape, sticky side out, because you can tailor its thickness to get exactly what you want/need.

Drop tests conducted (unintentionally) after the installation of this buffer have proven its effectiveness.
 
Last edited:

debinnv

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2013
1,396
3,394
Island Of Misfit Toys
Morning all, could some kind soul possibly help me out. I am at a loss and I tried working on this till like 4am and I am so frustrated.

The Peko I got was great and then I took it apart as I was going to see about painting it. Well I decided to hold off on painting and I can not for the life of me get this fire button figured out. I should have probably just left it alone as I have arthritis in my hands. I can not figure out what his instructions are saying.

" Place the spring (or magnets) into the button around the button nut. Screw button nut onto the contact screw trapping the spring (magnets). If you use magnets make sure they are opposed and repelling each other. You can put an o-ring around the button nut first to slightly decrease the available travel in the button, so the magnets increase the repulsion force by being forced closer together."

TRAP what??? am I supposed to try and trap one end of the spring between the bolt and top nut or what? I can't figure it out and I'm frustrated and ticked off and my hands are swollen now..............sigh, sorry to vent. It's just stupid that 100's of people are putting these together and I can't seem to get it. The fire pin does not go up or down either when I turn the button left or right. Something is wrong and I can't figure out why.

I thought maybe I should try finding some magnets instead but he still says to trap those too and I can't figure out he means.
frown.png


Thank you to anyone that might be able to help me with this. :)
 

Alexander Mundy

Ribbon Twister
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 1, 2013
4,408
26,100
Springfield, MO
This is what G posted somewhere else. I hope it helps.

Keep all the nuts loose until final assembly except this one. Pre-align with were it will be place in the top of the internal. Then tighten.
wLMOn6S.jpg


Stick the piece above through the bottom of the 510 opening and then attach the nut on the screw tight.
WLgXuFX.jpg


Insert the long nut into the button. May or may not need glue. Mine was tight and stayed in place.
AkFfAaF.jpg


Screw the button onto the screw - make sure the spring is in there first like above.
q0PdM6n.jpg


Then place the button with the spring aligned with the round groove in the top of the internal. While holding the button in place put the top cap on. Hold the top cap and screw in the 510 connector.
475bC8a.jpg
 

RGLP4Lyfe

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 29, 2014
1,344
3,846
PA
Morning all, could some kind soul possibly help me out. I am at a loss and I tried working on this till like 4am and I am so frustrated.

The Peko I got was great and then I took it apart as I was going to see about painting it. Well I decided to hold off on painting and I can not for the life of me get this fire button figured out. I should have probably just left it alone as I have arthritis in my hands. I can not figure out what his instructions are saying.

" Place the spring (or magnets) into the button around the button nut. Screw button nut onto the contact screw trapping the spring (magnets). If you use magnets make sure they are opposed and repelling each other. You can put an o-ring around the button nut first to slightly decrease the available travel in the button, so the magnets increase the repulsion force by being forced closer together."

TRAP what??? am I supposed to try and trap one end of the spring between the bolt and top nut or what? I can't figure it out and I'm frustrated and ticked off and my hands are swollen now..............sigh, sorry to vent. It's just stupid that 100's of people are putting these together and I can't seem to get it. The fire pin does not go up or down either when I turn the button left or right. Something is wrong and I can't figure out why.

I thought maybe I should try finding some magnets instead but he still says to trap those too and I can't figure out he means.
frown.png


Thank you to anyone that might be able to help me with this. :)
His description of trap simply means put the one end of the spring into your fire button, the other side of spring just lays on top of your mod shell, make sure its seated properly and then tighten everything up.

-M
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

debinnv

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2013
1,396
3,394
Island Of Misfit Toys
Thanks so much guys. I guess I was reading it a little TOO literally. :) The pictures should help. I tell ya I was feeling just so dang dumb as I know everyone puts these together pretty easily. I will give it a go again this evening. I had started reading through the thread and I did get to those pictures you posted. I was thinking ugh 150 more pages to go LOL.
 

debinnv

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2013
1,396
3,394
Island Of Misfit Toys
Okay, so I do now have it firing ( thank you again ) but it will not adjust up or down and the button is very stiff. I am thinking the spring might the issue. Is there a place I can buy just a new spring ( This one looks to be a little stretched out ) That or does someone happen to know what sized magnets I can use or where I might be able to buy them? Thank you again for all the help. It's really an awesome little mod and I have very small hands so it is the perfect size :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: B2L

B2L

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2012
7,844
45,313
Jacksonville, FL
Okay, so I do now have it firing ( thank you again ) but it will not adjust up or down and the button is very stiff. I am thinking the spring might the issue. Is there a place I can buy just a new spring ( This one looks to be a little stretched out ) That or does someone happen to know what sized magnets I can use or where I might be able to buy them? Thank you again for all the help. It's really an awesome little mod and I have very small hands so it is the perfect size :)

With my first PeKo, I set it up with the spring and found the same thing. I cut the spring in half with wire nippers and reinstalled it. I found the feel much more to my liking and am still using it that way. My second has magnets and I like that much better. Don't remember the magnet size but will go find it and edit this post.

Even better, the first post in Drunk_Js thread has links to just about anything you need to know, here it is Gdeal Bottom Feeders (Tutorials/Parts List/Pictures) - Please take questions to the spec thread | E-Cigarette Forum

Here's a link to the magnets used Redirecting
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread