Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

BobC

Reformed Squonker
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 11, 2013
4,415
16,202
Downtown Charleston, SC
I'm really liking this mod but...i feel like it doesn't hit as hard as my other mods. Anybody have any tricks up there sleeve to get better conductivity? I am thinking about copper plating the solder lugs and positive contact and replacing brass rod with 10 copper wire. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I just can't seem to leave well enough alone....[emoji91]

I think it's cause you followed your own advise, and didn't tighten all the nuts down as tight as possible, so you prolly have resistance all over the place,
I'm running these (a few) for months, and all hit as hard as any
 

Roscoe01

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Sep 17, 2014
2,558
7,521
North Dakota
Yeah could be. I left my meter at the shop so can't troubleshoot.

I just pulled my battery and I suspect I may have a partial short in the 510. I am getting some arcing at battery. Guess I will have to put it down till I can put a meter on it. Another thing I should have done is clean all parts with alcohol before assay to remove machine oil from brass parts as they were a little oily.
 

junquedujour

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 14, 2011
892
805
southwest misery
Might I suggest Loctite Green for electronics? That way if you ever need to take it apart, your not going to ruin what your working on.

yeh, the possibility of having to take it apart again is a problem with the glue. this loctite green does seem like a better option. thanks!
 

BobC

Reformed Squonker
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 11, 2013
4,415
16,202
Downtown Charleston, SC
Yeah could be. I left my meter at the shop so can't troubleshoot.

I just pulled my battery and I suspect I may have a partial short in the 510. I am getting some arcing at battery. Guess I will have to put it down till I can put a meter on it. Another thing I should have done is clean all parts with alcohol before assay to remove machine oil from brass parts as they were a little oily.

One of the biggest reasons for shorting at the 510 is the o-ring dis logging from the screw, you can't put the screw in too tight against the 510 derlin or it will not sit correctly

Edit: Glad you found your problem
 

Kentastic

Not Batman
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 30, 2013
1,878
10,303
Central Californication
Page 15 of the build doc...



( I know...nobody ever reads the instruction manual... :D)



Real men don't need instructions. We just bang the pieces together until they fit, and if a few pieces fall off then they should never have been put there in the first place. Or..... duct tape!
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

Merlin21

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 19, 2012
430
442
Northern New Jersey
Guess what day it is.... Guess what day it is... Mike, Mike, Mike.....

1203141637.jpg

Anybody have any experience with this color of Rit Dye? Shooting for button and ring in Blue and body/topcap white or black..... I can not wait to get this up and running! :vapor:
 

ThreeDJ16

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Mar 19, 2013
3,035
12,291
USA
I love the dark one, looks like a burl, and the left one looks like slate

Thx. My fav is the copper. You have to hold it to really appreciate. The copper is metal flake and gets brighter copper color depending on the light. Here are a couple close ups, but there are more back in photobucket.




The left one is supposed to look like very oxidized silver.

 

Kentastic

Not Batman
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 30, 2013
1,878
10,303
Central Californication
Has anyone dealt with leaking juice gathering around the bottom rim of the top cap? At first I just thought it was accumulating there when I'd over drip and go down into that area and eventually drip down the sides of the internals. Then I thought maybe it was from where the top of the bottle/tube screws into the 510 screw and it would just get spread around as I'm using the mod, but tonight I cleaned my PeKo completely, made sure everything was tight and was very careful to not over drip, but when I slid off the body to replace my battery a few hours later, there was a nice ring of juice all around the top cap with some just starting to drip down the inner rails, but not any around the bottle/tube area. So the only place I can think of it coming from is the 510 connection right up by the bottom of my BF atomizer, or the atomizer itself. (using dual coils on a Nuppin') I even have an o-ring in place between the atty and the top cap, but somehow I'm still getting juice accumulating at what looks like the area where both the top cap and the top of the internals meet.

Anyone ran into this before and can tell me where what they did to fix it? Take it all apart and put some kind of gasket/seal around the 510 where it goes into the body? Any other places I should check? Advice?

Thanks,
Ken
 
Last edited:

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

Merlin21

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 19, 2012
430
442
Northern New Jersey
Good afternoon everybody... I am about to go purchase some Krylon clear matte finish to seal the parts..... I am thinking of getting this spray paint Fusion for Plastic® - | Krylon for the body and top cap before sealing. Anythoughts, concerns? Should I just go for Rit dye or will the results be better with that spray paint.... Thanks in advance
 

Kentastic

Not Batman
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 30, 2013
1,878
10,303
Central Californication
There are only two places it can come from like you said. From your description, I would guess that it coming from a leaking seal area between your atty and 510. If the oring is not seated well on the top edge of the 510, it can slowly let juice creep out, especially with a heavy squonk. Another oring method is to put a drip tip size oring around the 510 threads on the atty itself. The FD classic has a small semi circular recess that it will seal against.

I'll give the drip tip sized oring a shot. Couldn't hurt. If it doesn't work I'll be taking the whole thing apart this weekend to investigate where in the world it could be coming from.

Thanks GDeal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread