Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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rudedog

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I cracked my delrin tryin to force the 6/32 tap through.so now I take it way slow and drill(7/64th) out the delrin b4 tapping and use pg for lube with the tap.


You don't need to drill it, just tap it to 6-32. If your not going to tap it, try just powering a 6-32 screw through existing threads. That is better than just drilling out the existing threads.
 

rudedog

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kool glad ya got it worked out,my 2nd peko's gonna be here Monday!yess cant wait.may have to get complicated and try a Gdna....hmmm or am I jumpin the gun.really the fiddling and sandin cutting down pieces to fit perfect was the fun part,ocd/add/adhd all get going when building one...lol.but its fun fer sure.



You guys... it was totally my 510! I just switched out the 510 I got in my other parts kit, and the Nuppin threads immediately, and tightens down solidly, flush to the mod. Seriously night & day. That first 510 is just not right, not by a long shot. So glad I ordered an extra pack of 3 from FD.

ETA: And I picked up a 11/62 bit and drilled out the bottle. Easier squonking! I am just so pleased with my little black mod- just ordered shell #2! White polished, due to arrive 3/18.
 

rudedog

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yepp now I hog out the delrin with the 7/64ths and use the pg to lube the tap and it may squeak while going through but haven't had any probs since,really thinkin about the Gdna but prolly need to do something that has some soldiering in it b4 I tackle a big build like the gdna.just not sure what to do,they have lil radio kit things ive heard.any idea's to be able to get some spearience soldiering?


Good thing you had extra 510 with delrin right Rick? Thank god for the 3 pack of 510's!

-Mark
 

Rossum

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I cracked my delrin tryin to force the 6/32 tap through.so now I take it way slow and drill(7/64th) out the delrin b4 tapping and use pg for lube with the tap.
Scratching my head how one might do that. The delrin already has a 3mm threaded hole in it. The standard "tap drill" size for 6-32 is a #35, which is 2.794 mm, and 7/64" is a bit smaller than that.

BTW, you're not supposed to "force" a tap though. You screw it in some, and you back off and clean the cuttings out of the flutes when you feel resistance build. Then you screw it in some more. Lather, rinse, repeat. ;)
 

rudedog

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well im sittin here with MY 7/64 drill bit and a new delrin out of the package and the bit will not fit.so maybe your DB is diff then mine or the delrin is diff I don't know.i didn't wanna use a 1/8th DB cuz I wasn't sure if it'd be to big and I'd messup another delrin piece.btw I have used a tap before but never in the delrin material and with metal as long as ya back it out when it gets tight then go back for more your good.i thought maybe just maybe with the delrin I could just go slow....NOT and it cost me...lol.but as sure as I am typing I sit here with the 7/64 and it wont fit.i hate not havin a camera.my DB doesn't have 7/64 on it but its from a set I got new and that's the hole it came out of...lol.

but the first time I tried to tap w/o drilling the tap didn't just hog on through as I was lead to think.anyways I have my way and everyone else has thiers.just a bit of background for me,ive done lotsa engine builds and motorcycle builds so I have some knowhow of tools so if I seem a lil grr to you its the testosterone thing going on....you know what I mean...kinda ill dare he tell me how to use a tap type thing.dont read that wrong that im all ready to kill something...just a mechanic/construction guy thing is all...ok?i have a hard time with the computer crap but I am learning.hey I can get pics off my FB thing and get them loaded on here so now if I could just get a dang camera! and learn to do the getting them to FB id be golden.

anyways Rossum I just want to make sure ya know I aint mad or anything I just sometimes have a tuff time taking what others say as advice and not a beatdown in words...make any sense to you??can ya tell me if I use a 1/8th DB if the 510 pin for the peko will still have enuff material to still thread in?sorry for the loooong post but hate leaving stuff unsaid.if I truly think someone is an idiot ill tell them...maybe not here in public but I will tell them.and no im not sayin your an idiot...lol.see how this typin crap can get trouble started so easy....lol




Scratching my head how one might do that. The delrin already has a 3mm threaded hole in it. The standard "tap drill" size for 6-32 is a #35, which is 2.794 mm, and 7/64" is a bit smaller than that.

BTW, you're not supposed to "force" a tap though. You screw it in some, and you back off and clean the cuttings out of the flutes when you feel resistance build. Then you screw it in some more. Lather, rinse, repeat. ;)
 

rudedog

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ive got a kit for a 26650 I just need the body parts and im set for it.my white polished body is supposed to be here tomorrow.i let a friend of mine use the peko I just finished so cant wait to get my other kit going.most scarey thing with the Gdna is I guess I would be afraid of getting it too hot and melting all the soldier on the the board...lol.keep seeing all the lil silver dots turning into puddles on me...lol.itd be a whikle b4 I did one IF I ever do.took me forever to pull the trigger on one of the pekos.-Rick

just lookin to do my other delrin piece and the lil oring for the 510screw is missing in this kit.does anyone know the size of that lil thing?i surly don't want to have an oring sent...lol.maybe ace hardware may have it.....darnit




Rick, soldering so dead freakin easy! You can do it with zero practice. It almost solders itself once you get it hot enough. Its very easy my man. The gdna isn't for me, I'm a mech guy. Just buy more Peko's!!

-Mark
 
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rudedog

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used a 7/64 DB on the 1st one.i don't have any #erd drill bits.but if 7/64 is to big, would 3/32 be the right bit to use?looks like I may have to replacem if they strip then,live and learn.the 1st broken delrin made me start drillin them to 7/64th cuz I didn't wanna crack anymore delrin pieces.

wow I butcherd the past few pages for sure...looks like an adhd dude got loose in here...wait a minute that's EXZACTLY what happened...alls well...lol.

Rick, what did you use to drill and tap your first 510? Should be the same process as the first... btw...It is a #36 drill bit for a 6-32 hole... 7/64" would probably work, but your thread thickness won't be very thick and prone to stripping...
 
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BigB_117

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Been reading though this thread for a while now. Havn't read it all, but think I got the basics.

Just ordered myself a peko parts set from Sculpteo in black polished and a couple parts kits (gotta have spares to turn into #2 lol)

I want to keep it basic black because I suck at painting. I assume that I can dry fit everything, wash the parts, and then just seal them with some Matt clear correct?
 

SeanMoore

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dry fit everything, wash the parts, and then just seal them with some Matt clear correct?

From what I understand you should clear coat it some before you put your grubby paws on it fitting things. Maybe not the final coat but definitely some sealing against hand oils and shop crap.
 

BigB_117

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From what I understand you should clear coat it some before you put your grubby paws on it fitting things. Maybe not the final coat but definitely some sealing against hand oils and shop crap.

I can do that easy enough. Looks like it should be a pretty easy build honestly with sealing the parts probably taking the most time/prep.
 

BigB_117

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Yes bigB seal it as soon as you get it. The nylon is very porous. Collects dirt fast. As far as building it it's so simple. I built my first without the build doc. But the doc definitely helps. Use that and you'll be fine!!

-Mark

Didn't see your reply till just now. Thanks for the tips. Ill be sure to seal first and have my spray can and spray area ready.

So I'm thinking:

Wash parts
Dry
Spray with 1 coat
Dry fit and adjust/sand any parts that might need it
Final spray a few more coats
Build
 

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BigB_117

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If your parts come really clean, you dont need to wash them, but I would take a close look for residual power in every hole, corner etc. They do a good job removing most of it before shipping, but if some did get left behind, you dont want to seal it in. Washing may not remove it. I just take a sharp tip probe and run it around the corners...only takes a minute or two and anything left behind usually comes free easily.

BTW, On the 26650 I had a lot of powder stuck in the long channel for the brass allthread. Needed to poke a hanger wire through it to loosen it up. But after cleaning it out, the channel printed perfectly.

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks. Can't wait to start building. I can see myself selling a Reo and building a few of these.
 
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