Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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Is there a difference between the two buttons in the amount of throw adjustment you can make?
Lol my thoughts exactly ..... shhhhh ... -whispering-do not provoke tibs .... we still need her...
The throw adjustment should not be affected. Its pretty complex, but see the attached screen capture from the CAD. With the high top cap, there is an extra 1.5 mm of recess that the screw can go into. Its only needed to fully screw down the top cap to lock the device to prevent from firing and if you use a button top like in the CAD. If you use a button top battery, you can either turn it up side down or sand the the brass bolt down slightly, if needed. The lower button was a special request.
I think Mundy has one set up with the lower button, so if he is around he can speak to his build as well.
Thanks Gdeal. Very helpful. Yes, I see Mundy posted his steel ring and low-button way back on the first page...
Kinda dirty because I carry it doing construction work. Note the low profile button which is a recent development. (Thanks G) Also note how it makes an RM2 look big. I would not recommend the stainless button and ring unless you want to do a LOT of work to size them and clean up the finish. I have customized (lmagine I would do something like that) the internal current carrying parts and am getting super low voltage drop with mid sub ohm coil.
Maybe I'll give one of each a try.
So, from what you said before, the same top cap can be used both with and without a ring, correct?
Getting excited. Stuck 2 sets of pieces in my cart. If SW comes through with a coupon, I think I'll add in a DNA v3.1 set, too. Many thanks again for all the hard work.
Yes, it is designed that way. Personally, I prefer the ring because it visually eliminates the seam between the top and bottom shells.
Yes. if you look at the picture I posted early, the magnets go in the same space as the spring. That space is the same for both high and low profile,
I apologies if this was answered i couldnt see it was answrred ; i just ordered a set this material is best out of the box or im gonna have to clear coat it when i recieve it ?
Low profile button works great, and I can still lock it. (I cut a little off the screw threads) Magnets work fine with plastic, but it took 3 in the "SS" button and rossum's "wire mod" between the battery contact and the atty ground to get it to work. The "SS" isn't so much SS because it is ferrous and short circuits most of the magnetic field inside the button itself.
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Yes. get all the extra printing material dust out of the holes and corners, wash in dish detergent and definitely seal it up! The material is porous. If you are not painting the mod, then Krylon Matt Acrylic #1311 is one of the easier to use. Its a thin light finish and keeps the grain on the material (if thats what you like) . People also use polyurathane and thicker coatings, so it a person preference thing.
So, where or how does one get a parts kit?
I love the fact that the engineering is already complete. I may just make my own components out of corian to looks like a marble mod, but I really like your internals and design.
Thanks
Geo
I love the fact that the engineering is already complete. I may just make my own components out of corian to looks like a marble mod, but I really like your internals and design.
Thanks
Geo
I don't mean to call out BobC specifically, but I've seen a couple of pictures of the PeKo where it looks like the atomizers are sitting crooked on top. These two pictures just exaggerate the affect, but even Mundy's picture makes it look like the RM2 is leaning a bit.
I'm just OCD enough that a leaning atomizer drives me bonkers, but I don't see it on ValHeli's or on some of the others so is there something we can do to stop this from happening or is just a roll of the dice that Shapeways gets the printing correct? Or am I being paranoid and it's just a trick of the camera angle and I should stop worrying about silly chit?
Ken
I'm just OCD enough that a leaning atomizer drives me bonkers, but I don't see it on ValHeli's or on some of the others so is there something we can do to stop this from happening or is just a roll of the dice that Shapeways gets the printing correct? Or am I being paranoid and it's just a trick of the camera angle and I should stop worrying about silly chit?
Ken
Sometimes you'll get lucky and get SW parts that just fit perfectly and sometimes they're too tight on tolerances. From my experience, I'd ream out the 510 hole or file it to down to ensure the 510 connector with my atomizer sits pefectly level on the top cap. This initial fitting also helps in making sure that the AFC hole is facing where you want it.
Ken, a lot of what you see may just be barrel distortion from the camera lense. Most of the pics are probably taken from only a couple inches away. I was looking at my pics from the first post. The one showing the internal looks like crooked. but the other pics you can see the same device and its aligned nicely.
But do as Val Heli just posted. If the hole is tight and you just screw the 510 in, it may not "tap" the plastic on a perfect angle. But its all tweekable.
But do as Val Heli just posted. If the hole is tight and you just screw the 510 in, it may not "tap" the plastic on a perfect angle. But its all tweekable.
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