Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[BobC]

No biggie, Pdibs (Peter) is making beautiful wood mods and wood shells for the GDNA 3.1 and Rossum has both

 

[BobC]

When I had a short in my 510/atomizer base I melted the delrin. The button didn't get hot. I pulled the battery, let things cool down, fixed the atomizer base and it worked fine. The delrin is misshapen and I had to sand it down to be able to adjust the nut/screw combination but it is still going strong 2 months later. Only the delrin melted, not the button. I don't remember all the details.

Depends where and how solid the short is, your case sounds like a dead short at the screw,

 

[ronnbert]

What those guys said...^^^ "Short" or you are seriously sub-ohming and dont have good solid connection between your atty positive pin and the vented screw.

If your button is getting hot, and your not super sub-ohming, you're shorting at the 510,

My guess it's at the screw top, shorting against the attie 510 negative or the 510 insert casing. BE CAREFUL.

Check that the o-ring around the 510 screw is still in a good position, and that the screw head is not touching the attie 510 negative side

It is ~.22ohm build, not sure of your definition of super subohm. Funny thing is, this is the best performance I have had out of this unit after some fiddling last night, but the button getting hot is a bit unnerving. It may be that the screw is touching the 510 -_-

 

[Rmervin]

On the losing 18490 front:

I'm comparing a 2.9" Sun Box to a 3.4" Printed Electric Knock Out, a difference in size that may only matter to my vest pocket. An additional loss in height is from the recessed 510 in the SB drip cup (maybe .4 inches)...The Sun Box uses a 4ml rectangular bottle. Never used a REO and I can only imagine that a PEKO could make an 18 amp AW feel more like a battery on a .9 ohm dual coil than a Sun Box can. Am I wrong to dream?

 

[rudedog]

hey Bob I went to my local ace hardware and was lookin for the infamous 1311 paint to paint my peko....and I felt like an idiot asking the guy hey wheres the 1211 paint...????well after lookin fer a bit I said heck with this crap and picked up a can of "hammered"it looks like robs silver grey hammertone reo's and I must say the cap looks Purdy cool.oh yeah b4 I forget....so the 1311 paint is just like say a bricklayer sending a young tender to go get a bucket of headjoints?or a skyhook??for a framing crew...HAH HAH HAH that was a good one though.been a while since id been gotten with that type of gag...you guys!!ima take ya'll snipe huntin this summer too!or maybe goo get a jackalope!!

I guess this would have to come with a 1MM bottle and a sip-it straw

 

[BlueSnake]

hey Bob I went to my local ace hardware and was lookin for the infamous 1311 paint to paint my peko....and I felt like an idiot asking the guy hey wheres the 1211 paint...????well after lookin fer a bit I said heck with this crap and picked up a can of "hammered"it looks like robs silver grey hammertone reo's and I must say the cap looks Purdy cool.oh yeah b4 I forget....so the 1311 paint is just like say a bricklayer sending a young tender to go get a bucket of headjoints?or a skyhook??for a framing crew...HAH HAH HAH that was a good one though.been a while since id been gotten with that type of gag...you guys!!ima take ya'll snipe huntin this summer too!or maybe goo get a jackalope!!

Sorry, but I can never make any sense of most of your posts. Krylon 1311 is a spray clear matte finish. I have no idea what you mean in your post except for the Hammertone.

 

[BobC]

hey Bob I went to my local ace hardware and was lookin for the infamous 1311 paint to paint my peko....and I felt like an idiot asking the guy hey wheres the 1211 paint...????well after lookin fer a bit I said heck with this crap and picked up a can of "hammered"it looks like robs silver grey hammertone reo's and I must say the cap looks Purdy cool.oh yeah b4 I forget....so the 1311 paint is just like say a bricklayer sending a young tender to go get a bucket of headjoints?or a skyhook??for a framing crew...HAH HAH HAH that was a good one though.been a while since id been gotten with that type of gag...you guys!!ima take ya'll snipe huntin this summer too!or maybe goo get a jackalope!!

Ahhhhh, I remember the ole Skyhook one fondly

Pics of the cap (ya can't talk about it without a pic)

As Bluesky said 1311 is a real matte sealer

 

[drmarble]

I got my krylon 1311 at my local walmart.
My ACE hardware store didn't carry it.

 

[rudedog]

we obviously come from 2 diff worlds then my friend and I wont hold it against you. actually its call attention deficit disorder and or ADHD.makes it hard for one to stay on task or get to just the point.let me know if this explains why you have a hard time following me.hope you don't take this as me being a jerk,if so sorry not my intention.but hey a do have fairly good grammer ya must admit! but my punctuation sucks but hey cant win em all.take care BS

Sorry, but I can never make any sense of most of your posts. Krylon 1311 is a spray clear matte finish. I have no idea what you mean in your post except for the Hammertone.

 

[rudedog]

thanks,if I have to ill go to WM I just try to not go there and looks like ace didn't in my lil town didn't carry it either.so is it a big deal to use just regular rust-oleum?sorry for asking such a dumb question but I don't have any experience with 3d printed plastic.---Rick

I got my krylon 1311 at my local walmart.
My ACE hardware store didn't carry it.

 

[junquedujour]

the local walmart here did not carry the krylon 1311, but the one up the road did. gdeal posted a GREAT comparison pic of the with/without krylon 1311 when the parts were exposed to water - maybe in the GDNA thread ?? can't remember, but it made a believer outta me.

i used it mostly to coat/protect the insides that may get exposed to juice.

i didn't use it for the outside with oil-based paints - BUT i've heard back from one that was gifted, that i should have cuz the oil based paints are fading where the case gets held the most.

lesson learned.

i will stay with the krylon 1311 for the innards, but i am going to get a can of the brush-on polyurethane to seal the outside of my cases like Drunk_J uses cuz i like that shiny option of the polyurethane finish.

yeh, the *ooooo shiny* never really leaves the soul, eh?

 

[junquedujour]

whew! found the post where gdeal shows 'n tells about sealing:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nted-dna30-bottom-feeder-33.html#post14225894

I normally dont treat the WSF internals. The tolerances and interfaces are too tight. But the material is porous and can possible get stained. So I did a little experiment tonight to see if they could be sealed and do so without compromising all the holes, slots, grooves and rails. I put together two fresh internal units. I lightly sprayed all the parts on one unit with Krylon #1311. I did two coats. The first coat sunk in to the material, The second coat laid on top of the surface. I didnt pool the acrylic on the second spray, it was more of a misting. This acrylic spray is one of the thinnest coating surface treatments I have use. It added basically zero thickness to the parts and everything assembled perfectly after sealing the material.

I did a quick test by placing a drop of water on each assembly, it was the juice tube side and I tilted them slightly to gauge pooling vs. run off vs absorption. It worked very well. Sealed parts on the left vs unsealed on the right.

Treated - Pretest material - no real noticeable difference in material.

One drop of water placed on each part- Treated part pools water, untreated absorbs instantly.

15 second after the water was dropped. - Treated spreads out but stays on the surface, un treated water spreads through out the part.

Close up on the last pic... Shiney spots are the water reflecting light. Notice the bottom half of the treated part isnt wet...

 

[Rmervin]

I got my krylon 1311 at my local walmart.
My ACE hardware store didn't carry it.

I used Polycrylic because Lowes doesn't sell Krylon...15-30 minutes of squinting at cans, and explaining exactly what I was sealing...I settled on Minwax based on one wearied fellows recommendation and especially since another suggested Rustoleum (?). I miss Ace, Walmart, no...just no.

* I did read the Rustoleum cans, it was stain/paint and seal in one shot and I had other ambitions. Why no Walmart?...long story.

 

[junquedujour]

the 3ml bottle from reomods ?

that's with the cap screwed down tight.


p.s. THANKS K-Omo for the calipers. ;-)

 

[junquedujour]

or one of these square ones? i know some were using one of the sizes in the reo mini at one point:

http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Plasti...26247705&sr=8-5&keywords=plastic+sauce+bottle

copied from the description: Made in Japan * Material: Plastic * Assorted Size: * 4 small Bottles holds 0.15 fl.oz * 4 medium bottles holds 0.3 fl.oz * 4 Large bottles holds 0.45 fl.oz *

 

[BobC]

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006152/1583304-empty-dropper-bottles-for-e-liquids-5-pack-5ml

 

[junquedujour]

stealth schmealth - fact is, it would be adorable.

 

[BobC]

Better?
3 ml Natural Bottle with Dropper Tip Insert and White Cap

 

[junquedujour]

Better?
3 ml Natural Bottle with Dropper Tip Insert and White Cap

i have a couple of those that were samples for eliquids. the ones i have are extremely thin and chintzy feeling. i don't know if the threading would hold up after refilling a few times.

 

[muzichead]

It is ~.22ohm build, not sure of your definition of super subohm. Funny thing is, this is the best performance I have had out of this unit after some fiddling last night, but the button getting hot is a bit unnerving. It may be that the screw is touching the 510 -_-

I am running a .24Ω build on my 18650 Peko right now and no problems with hot buttons or anything out of the ordinary. You most definitely have a short somewhere. The first thing I would check would be the solder lug that goes to the 510 and is tightened down with the slotted nut...

hey Bob I went to my local ace hardware and was lookin for the infamous 1311 paint to paint my peko....and I felt like an idiot asking the guy hey wheres the 1211 paint...????well after lookin fer a bit I said heck with this crap and picked up a can of "hammered"it looks like robs silver grey hammertone reo's and I must say the cap looks Purdy cool.oh yeah b4 I forget....so the 1311 paint is just like say a bricklayer sending a young tender to go get a bucket of headjoints?or a skyhook??for a framing crew...HAH HAH HAH that was a good one though.been a while since id been gotten with that type of gag...you guys!!ima take ya'll snipe huntin this summer too!or maybe goo get a jackalope!!

I used the Hammertone on my Peko as well as the top caps for both, my Mephisto and Nuppin'. I also gave everything about 6-8 coats of #1311 to protect them after I painted them. The Hammertone only shows good on the top of the top cap and the bottom of the Peko. The sides didn't leaved the hammered effect because I didn't sand it down at all. I mostly just like the color so it has stayed this way... Not sure what color I will do my 26650 that is out for delivery today.