Problem with my newer stainless VAMO compared to my older gunmetal one?

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anavidfan

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Now, im definately not an expert, but my saber touch has a safety spring that retracts like that when my atty has a short. Its happened a couple times to me, at first I feel the warmth and then I take cap off and see that the spring has collapsed. Check to see if rebuilding your wick coil or trying another device, like a carto or plain atomizer. If it doesnt stay warm then you have no problems.
 

PLANofMAN

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Now, im definately not an expert, but my saber touch has a safety spring that retracts like that when my atty has a short. Its happened a couple times to me, at first I feel the warmth and then I take cap off and see that the spring has collapsed. Check to see if rebuilding your wick coil or trying another device, like a carto or plain atomizer. If it doesnt stay warm then you have no problems.
It's a version 1 and version 2 spring. The shorter spring is standard on the SS Vamo.

I wonder if it could really be a simple case of stainless steel is a better conductor of heat than your gunmetal plated brass cap. I'd be willing to bet that both springs are reacting the same way, it's just that the stainless end cap conducts heat better, so you notice it more.
 

PLANofMAN

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Thanks for measuring the resistance of the bottom cap. That blows my theory out of the water. I typically only take about 5 second vapes, so I haven't run into this problem yet. My question is this, what are the ramifications of just ignoring this? Will it just drain my battery faster, or is this a serious safety concern?

EDIT: I should say I typically vape at 6-6.5 Watts, at 2-2.8 Ohms, with a joyetech 18650 2200 mAh battery.
 
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Aurora-Oblivion

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Ok, here are pics of the two caps with respective springs:


Gunmetal cap:
View attachment 165666

SS Cap:
View attachment 165669

Both1:
View attachment 165667

Both2:
View attachment 165668

Thanks for the pics! What wattage do you normally vape at when you notice the heat issue, and is that a chain vape session?

What resistance are you using when this happens? Also, did you stretch that spring, the thing long one? It looks very weak/thin so just curious if that is anything close to the natural shape, if it is close then it's nothing like the original spring I received which you'll see below.

The ones that came with mine both look like this, which oddly mine do not look the same as either of the ones you have? Maybe the large thick one is the same or close, just looks different due to the pics?

The smaller one in the middle of mine worked fine but allowed some battery play, both work great together though

keqsE.jpg


ECFgR.jpg


Just to recap what I mentioned previously. If I hit mine long and hard, chain vape, with either spring or both, at low ohms (1.3-1.5) and higher watts (7-10) I can feel the bottom get warm but not overly hot. Sometimes even at 2.2 ohms & 7-8 watts I notice it too if I'm hitting too frequently, or for long draws multiple times in a super short period.

If I hit it normally with the same low ohms, don't chain vape, it's fine and never gets warm with either spring or both. And I never see any firing lag, always instant and full power immediately

I am using the cheap 2200mah 18650 Joytech battery that HC sells, light blue
http://www.healthcabin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8054
 

Azphat12

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Ok, did some more testing.
I put my RBA on....around 9 watts with 32awg Kanthal at 2.5 ohms.

The bottom will get hot after awhile.
It doesnt right away... maybe after the 3rd or 4th vape (quick...almost chain vape)
If I stay on it for awhile....it really gets hot to the touch.
Normal vaping.... it mighty get warm but cools quickly.
 

EagleHawk

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I had the exact same problem with my stainless steel vamo. I messed around with it at various watt settings and rba`s and the bottom capwas getting extremely hot. It was the spring. I removed the stock spring and replaced it with a hot spring from my silver bullet and encountered the same problem.the spring was hot enoug my hand after only a few ten second drags. Something is definitely causing hard shorts in these units. I ended up sending mine back to the vendor I purchased from I felt the problem was at a dangerous level, easy to much heat that in my opinion is most likely caused by a hard short. I am far from knowledgeable in this arena but everything I have learned I'm the last three years of coping about battery as safety said to drop it like a hot potato. Hope this gets addressed by the mfg soon.
 
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Azphat12

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If it was causing a short....wouldnt the device shoot an error or shut off?
I am noticing the higher the watts, the hotter the cap will get.
If it was a short... would that happen? The more power, the more heat?
That sounds more of a resistance thing than a short....

Anyone know if the linked hot spring fixes it? Or maybe a spring bought somewhere else....
 

Azphat12

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Ok, just did a small test.

I placed my gunmetal bottom cap/spring on the SS Vamo.... and chain vaped for a few minutes.
It did NOT get hot. It got barily even warm... however...the RBA was pretty hot on the top cap from chain vaping.

I placed the SS bottom/spring back on.... vaped a little.... and it started getting hot.

Also... maybe its just me. But with the weaker spring, it seemed I had more vapor
As soon as I put the thicker spring back on, the vapor seemed less.....
 

DizGrizz

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OK...the bottom cap of your PV should NOT get hot, period. If it does, something is definitely WRONG. The spring and cap should be very, very, very low resistance (like less than .01 ohms) in short, zero resistance. All that you have said; especially the most recent post, indicates that either the spring that came with the SS Vamo has resistance itself or is making poor contact with the cap.
I would get some other springs and try them out.

Do you have an ohm meter?
 

DizGrizz

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Assuming your meter is not auto-ranging, set it to the lowest ohms range (if auto-ranging, no need). Clean the leads off. Short the leads together and scrub them a bit to get best contact and see what your meter reads. If it's not zero, make a note of it...this is your "zero ohms" baseline for the meter.
Now remove the SS cap, put one lead against the cap and the other against the top of the spring where it would make contact with the battery. Again, you might need to do a little "scrubbing" with the leads to get a good contact. It should read the same value you got when you shorted the meter leads.
If not, there is something wrong. Remove the spring and measure it from the bottom to the top with the ohm meter to see if it, by itself has resistance.
 

DizGrizz

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Upon some more reflection, a "hot spring" will have some intentional resistance but it should still be so darned low as to be hard or impossible to read with a normal meter.

EDIT: My dedicated atomizer ohm meter goes to 100ths of an ohm. I mean, atty resistance is only about 4 ohms max so very little resistance somewhere else is a bad thing.
 
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KevinNash

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Hello,

I posted mesurements here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/healthcabin/364027-bamboo-stainless-bottom-cap-conductivity-problem.html

The spring is too resistive that's why it's hot, there's no short of course, just spring resistance :unsure:.

I also tried copper conductivity grease between the spring and the cap, nothing changed.

Like Azphat12, if I use another Vamo cap Chrome or Black Chrome, with the thinner spring, all is perfect and the vape is a little bit better :) With the SS spring/cap, some voltage is lost in the spring.
 
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DizGrizz

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Thanks, Kevin. It sure sounds like the new spring is a fail...like they just used the wrong alloy for it.

Man, that's not good! If it overheats or damages the battery, you could have a serious batt melt-down on your hands!

DO NOT vape with the spring that is getting hot. Use the other spring/vamo that works and just get some other springs to try out.
 
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