Problem with RDA/Coils

[buildabane]

I'm new to rda's, but I am currently running a Tugboat on a Nemesis. So far the experience has been amazing. Awesome lung hits and lots of flavor.

Today I built (with a friend who knows how) a .5 ohm dual micro coil setup. Wicked it with cotton, juiced it, and fired away. Amazing..Smooth, creamy hits that were cool (temp wise). All of the sudden after adding some more juice a few hours ago, the temp of my vape skyrocketed. I can barely get down a drag longer than a second. It doesn't taste burnt, just very hot. What could be the issue here? I haven't done anything other than tighten the posts a bit. Using the same batteries at the same level of charge. What could cause a temp change like this? Seriously stumped on this one!

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[wonner]

Not familiar with the Tugboat but does it have adjustable air flow?

Did you change the air flow accidentally?

 

[buildabane]

Not familiar with the Tugboat but does it have adjustable air flow?

Did you change the air flow accidentally?

I think I have the Tugboat v1 - It has two relatively large holes for airflow. As far as the airflow on the Nemesis I have no idea.

 

[State O' Flux]

What could be the issue here? I haven't done anything other than tighten the posts a bit.

Two possibles come to mind...

> Tightening the posts may have reduced the resistance to it's true value. Without a description of the actual build, there's no way of knowing that for sure though. Use Steam Engine to model a build first... if the input data is accurate, actual resistance readings should mirror the SE results.

> To start... you had poor continuity between mech and atty, or in the mech itself - which has a similar effect to increasing atomizer resistance. At some point, this issue was inadvertently corrected... again, resulting in a true resistance value.

A 0.5Ω build should be "warm".

If you don't have a multi-meter (DMM) to diagnose mech conductivity, or at least an in-line volt meter... determining the latter condition would be difficult.

 

[buildabane]

Two possibles come to mind...

> Tightening the posts may have reduced the resistance to it's true value. Without a description of the actual build, there's no way of knowing that for sure though. Use Steam Engine to model a build first... if the input data is accurate, actual resistance readings should mirror the SE results.

> To start... you had poor continuity between mech and atty, or in the mech itself - which has a similar effect to increasing atomizer resistance. At some point, this issue was inadvertently corrected... again, resulting in a true resistance value.

A 0.5Ω build should be "warm".

If you don't have a multi-meter (DMM) to diagnose mech conductivity, or at least an in-line volt meter... determining the latter condition would be difficult.

Yeah, no ohm reader yet, it is in the mail with some other DIY goodies. I can, however, read certain coils on my MVP, provided that they aren't too low. Is there a method for a single or dual coil setup that will be readable by the mvp? Is there a non sub-ohm coil I can build that will put out some good vapor? I do have 26 gauge Kanthol - So I can give something else a try.

 

[buildabane]

Actually, the MVP just read the coil resistance I have now at 0.5....Didn't think it could go that low, but what the hell! I just need to find a relatively simple build for some 26 gauge kanthol to practice on.

 

[State O' Flux]

Is there a method for a single or dual coil setup that will be readable by the mvp?

Not trying to sound too much like your mom, but... I can't emphasis enough the fact that, until you have complete and accurate control over your build... your potential for personal injury and/or equipment damage is substantial.

When you have accurate data, plenty of folks will be willing to help you out. Until then...

I will not offer specific recommendations for builds, unless I feel the user has a good understanding of Ohm's law, battery safety... and an accurate meter - which at sub-ohm, the MVP is not a reliable substitute.

Refer to the Steam Engine link I provided and "build" some coils. As an investment in your personal knowledge, click my sigline hyperlink... and have yourself a read.

Cheers... safe vaping.

 

[buildabane]

Not trying to sound too much like your mom, but... I can't emphasis enough the fact that, until you have complete and accurate control over your build... your potential for personal injury and/or equipment damage is substantial.

When you have accurate data, plenty of folks will be willing to help you out. Until then...

I will not offer specific recommendations for builds, unless I feel the user has a good understanding of Ohm's law, battery safety... and an accurate meter - which at sub-ohm, the MVP is not a reliable substitute.

Refer to the Steam Engine link I provided and "build" some coils. As an investment in your personal knowledge, click my sigline hyperlink... and have yourself a read.

Cheers... safe vaping.

I've been using and applying OHM's law in school for years. That isn't the problem. I understand resistance, heat, and transfer. What I did not know is what could cause a voltage drop. And I do know better than to sub-ohm on an MVP, or to use it as a primary source of viewing resistance. My objective was to practice wrapping coils with the 26 gauge, and then use the MVP to check the resistance..Not to use them. I know that you need a good reader before you use a coil and I would never use a coil on my device unless I was 120% sure that it was safe and my batteries allow it. My question was what could cause that heating issue? And also inquiring about 26 gauge single coil builds. Just because I asked about them, doesn't mean that I was going to wrap one and throw it on my RDA and hope that it doesn't light my head on fire. Anyway, I will practice wrapping with spare 26 gauge and see what I can come up with..And no, they won't be getting any battery power until further testing.

 

[denske]

What mg nic are you using in your dripper? In my tanks i use 18mg, but in my RDA 18mg is almost impossible for me, i dropped down to 6mg for dripping.

 

[edyle]

I'm new to RDA's, but I am currently running a Tugboat on a Nemesis. So far the experience has been amazing. Awesome lung hits and lots of flavor.

Today I built (with a friend who knows how) a .5 ohm dual micro coil setup. Wicked it with cotton, juiced it, and fired away. Amazing..Smooth, creamy hits that were cool (temp wise). All of the sudden after adding some more juice a few hours ago, the temp of my vape skyrocketed. I can barely get down a drag longer than a second. It doesn't taste burnt, just very hot. What could be the issue here? I haven't done anything other than tighten the posts a bit. Using the same batteries at the same level of charge. What could cause a temp change like this? Seriously stumped on this one!

Any help would be appreciated!

1:
Well did you change the juice?
A different pg/vg ratio might cause the change in temperature.

2:
Tightening the posts will cause a change.
When you wrap a new coil, you test fire it and get thing warm and when you check the screws, good chance they seem loose because of the heat and you screw them in and test fire again.


Sometimes my vape changes on me, but when it does, I just adjust the wattage

 

[buildabane]

No change in juice - I am just running a .5 micro and it seems to be getting the job done. Good vapor and good flavor. It is getting gunked up black pretty quickly though.

 

[Newportlocal]

Just throwing out a random thought may or may not be your issue. Are the air holes lined up with your coils. If not line the air holes up with them.

 

[ProjektMayhem]

Go to Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and use that to model some 26 gauge builds like was stated earlier. That really helps me out a lot when I'm trying to figure out what to build and how many wraps and all that. It will also tell you what the surface area of your coil is going to be which is a good thing to know. More surface area touching juice, more vapor.