Wear latex gloves! I almost glued the tube to my thumb... lol
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using David Copperfield's magic fairy dust.
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Wear latex gloves! I almost glued the tube to my thumb... lol
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using David Copperfield's magic fairy dust.
Mostly just the CE3, one of the tank cartos that came with the kit would do a battery reset any time I went over 3.5v with it and it would leak juice out of the connector if it was more than a third full. I have since replaced it with a Boge carto and it is working perfectly but I don't go over 3.3v with the Boge being dual coil 1.5 ohm it gets hot at anything higher.
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it was an easy quick fix... it doesn't look as pretty as when I got it though. Make sure to use a disclaimer for the people that glue their fingers to the tube...lol.
You know it will happen... just like putting the "caution: contents are hot" on coffee cups... ha ha!
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using David Copperfield's magic fairy dust.
I had the same problem with one of my Revive's and also a CE5. It would either not fire or do a reset to 5 volts. I thought it was a battery issue to begin with. I ended up changing the EGO adapter out for another one and I haven't any problems since.
Some of my CE3's won't screw all the way into the adapter without losing contact. I'm not sure if it is the adapter that is too long or the contact in the carto/tank is at the wrong height, but I just loosen it up a bit and it then makes contact. Also if I take off the adapter and screw the carto/tank directly into the base I haven't had any problems. Minor issue though on the CE3's.
Take it apart and look at your coils. If it is made correctly, it should look like this:
On some of these, the cup is to far below the inlet holes, and/or the wick is far down in the cup creating sharp bends which restricts wicking.. Gently push the cup up from below by putting the fill needle in the airway at an angle and push the cup up till the top is even with the bottom of the inlet holes. If the wick is pulled down into the cup, gently lift it up so it looks similar to the picture above. If you break it, you own it lol.
Do not fill all the way to the top! Fill only to about 1/8' below the wicks. There must be a little air in the tank.
After you align the wick, use a fingernail clipper to cut the wick almost even with holes.
For thick juice, I file crescents in the tube where it seats above the wicks. This allows adjustment to get the flow correct for different juice viscosities.
It's late so rather than write a longer post, here is a redacted PM I replied to that may be helpful though some of it is out of context:
As you'd expect, the thinner the juice, the less fiddle factor there is. My wife exclusively vapes Dekang 555 PG, and other than straighten up the wicks in 2 of the 4 I fill for her at a time, I've not done anything else to her LR CE3's other than clean them a few times.
Now for my 100%VG Boba's, and 60/40 PG/VG DIY juice, those have needed the mods as discussed. I read where you are also a VG heavy vaper. So we have run into similar experiences. So my thoughts and experiences below are mainly for the thicker juices.
1) move the wick/coil up so its about horizontal to the holes
The cup is just below the inlet holes, and the wick nearly even, and the coils spread out a bit. The very best of ones I have opened are made this way. Others have been much farther down, and some in between. The amount of adjustment possible has varied from very little, to being able to push the cup up to where I want it, along with the wick.
Another QC issue is some have the coils wrapped too close together. On a couple, I can see when dry-burning the outer wraps get hotter quicker than the middle two. So they can be shorted as well. I know your a coil wrapper, so check for that. Really is a PIA to have to do this crap, but when right, they're more than worth the trouble.
2) fill and vape (no wick trimming)
No thinning. Hit and miss IMO. While it does work, I have a couple I pulled out to much, and now flood. I do trim them closer to the inlet holes though. Does seem to help.
After adjusting the cup/wick, I trim them closer to the holes, and do just the opposite of fluffing. I tamp the wick edges down in the slots with the object being for the air bubbles to be able to escape from the top of the wick. May be hokum, IDK, but seems like whenever I fill one and it starts giving dry hits, I often have smaller bubbles coming from below the wick, rather than big old fat bubbles coming out from atop of the wick.
Another thing. I take em apart and clean/dry burn often. Mine start to go downhill pretty quick after the second refill. Again, that's with my carto killer juices, so YMMV.
I'm amazed how rugged the coils are. I've not popped one yet, and I've dry-burned the crap out of my main two.
About the filling. Fill till the juice just reaches the metal coil cap of the air-tube. In other-words, about 1/4" below the wicks.
I try to about vape it dry before refilling. I either shake it down to get the remaining juice away from the wicks, or set it down upside down if I'm going to fill later. Sometimes, it seems as though if I start flooded, I stay flooded. (Have since found it is actually better to refill when it approaches 3/4ths empty...no end of juice flooding)
3) if its still not wicking right, file some crescents
This flat out works. When you put the air-tube on, hold it up to a light look at how much light you can see through the wick holes from the other side. If you can't see any light coming through, the holes are not big enough, or the wick needs to be moved some. After observing this a few times, you'll get a feel for how large a void you want before you even fill it.
4) if it over wicks, turn the stem to effectively make the crescents smaller
Yep. The adjustment is from stock to as deep as you chose to file the crescent. About halfway to the next ledge is more than enough.
Judging by the 10 I've inspected, they have a great design, that can be made perfect with an adjustable tube, and better attention paid to how the workers manufacture the coil. I'd gladly pay double for a premium quality version of this. Would be a bargain considering the longevity of these.
Don
I just ordered this Ambroid Pro Weld Plastic Cement with applicator 2 oz | eBay
Supposed to "weld" the plastic and leave no residue. Got it to fix my stardust type clearos that have cracks. Have been using these things for 6-8 weeks, and they still work great except for the cracks.
I'll grab some for my next ce6. Thanks, Harleydiva!
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using David Copperfield's magic fairy dust.
Followup on V8, after two week use.
As I mentioned before, and substantiated by LordDavon, the V8 is a powerhouse. Far more vapor and taste when a device is on the V8 than when that same device is on another power source.
Also, as I've mentioned before, I've fried several coils with the V8. Some when setting what I thought would be a safe Voltage, and some by accident. It is the accidental loss of E1s, CE4+s, and some other devices that has prompted this additional comment on the V8.
The single short coming of the V8, in my opinion, is the inability to LOCK the Voltage that is set. I was vaping almost exclusively with the V8 set at 3.0 Volts. What happened on several occassions is that I inadvertantly bumped the DOWN button, wound up at 6.0 Volts, and promptly fried a coil.
What I have done in an attempt to prevent this from happening is to set the V8 to either 3.1 or 3.2 Volts. Then, should I accidently tap the DOWN button, the V8 goes to the next lower Voltage and does not roll over to 6.0 Volts. This has saved me from an accident several times.
An alternative to being able to lock the selected Voltage on the V8 would be to program it so that when you reach the 3.0 Volt setting it does not roll over to 6.0 but rather stays at the lowest Voltage. Perhaps Eric could make this suggestion to the manufacturer, and who knows we might have a Version 2 in the future.
RodeoGeorge
As I mentioned before, and substantiated by LordDavon, the V8 is a powerhouse. Far more vapor and taste when a device is on the V8 than when that same device is on another power source.
Also, as I've mentioned before, I've fried several coils with the V8. Some when setting what I thought would be a safe Voltage, and some by accident. It is the accidental loss of E1s, CE4+s, and some other devices that has prompted this additional comment on the V8.
The single short coming of the V8, in my opinion, is the inability to LOCK the Voltage that is set. I was vaping almost exclusively with the V8 set at 3.0 Volts. What happened on several occassions is that I inadvertantly bumped the DOWN button, wound up at 6.0 Volts, and promptly fried a coil.
What I have done in an attempt to prevent this from happening is to set the V8 to either 3.1 or 3.2 Volts. Then, should I accidently tap the DOWN button, the V8 goes to the next lower Voltage and does not roll over to 6.0 Volts. This has saved me from an accident several times.
An alternative to being able to lock the selected Voltage on the V8 would be to program it so that when you reach the 3.0 Volt setting it does not roll over to 6.0 but rather stays at the lowest Voltage. Perhaps Eric could make this suggestion to the manufacturer, and who knows we might have a Version 2 in the future.
RodeoGeorge
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I agree that this is the only fault this device has. I have fried 3-4 myself all by hitting the down voltage button by accident. They either have to lock the voltage or keep it from rolling to 6v.
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I have already asked for this and other improvements, they are stonewalling
That's a shame because the V8 is a pretty nice product. I mean it's not a looker but if they would just tweak the electronics a little it would be great.
Just had someone get really upset about the top of the ovale V8 where the carto goes, it seems that it is poorly put together and looks like holes that shouldn't be there. They believed it was just theirs but I see the same thing on all of mine (random sample)
can you guys look at yours and see if yours look the same as this:
can you guys look at yours and see if yours look the same as this:
Mine is the same! I had to really look close to see it though. It certainly doesn't cause a problem and is covered by the adapter.
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Just had someone get really upset about the top of the ovale V8 where the carto goes, it seems that it is poorly put together and looks like holes that shouldn't be there. They believed it was just theirs but I see the same thing on all of mine (random sample)
can you guys look at yours and see if yours look the same as this:
Yup, mines got them, hasn't been a problem though as of yet, I am always using the adapter, that sucker is hard to unscrew!! Lol.
Yes, they are all like that. It is just from the mold, and not a defect. It may intentionally be there for airflow.
I agree, just making sure, don't want to get a bad rep somewhere out on facebook land
I actually told the person I thought they were vent holes
.. to my defense, I was in a rush and didn't really look all that thoroughly, I usually don;t do that but I do want to go to bed sometime tonight
I agree, just making sure, don't want to get a bad rep somewhere out on facebook land
I actually told the person I thought they were vent holes
Don't worry, the device is a 9.9 out of 10. The .1 is because the voltage wont lock, which hasnt been a problem for me!I
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