Protank 2 base won't let airflow

[supersport13]

My PT2 base stopped flowing for some reason. It was like one second it was working great and the next time I put it on....bam...no airflow. So I use my mini PT2 base for my regular PT2 and it works fine. I read somewhere that taking the little white rubber cap that sits on top of the wicks can be removed to make a better vape, but it seems as if it might flood if I do that. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[wonner]

What device are you putting the PT2 on?

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Dakota Jim]

There are little holes on the side of the 510 threads on the base, are they clear? and make sure you are not screwing the tank down so tight you are covering these holes up when you attach it to your battery.

If you have to really crank it down tight to get a connection for it to fire you may need to pry the positive terminal inside the 510 threads up a very small amount on the battery itself - use a needle and be careful (remove the battery 1st if it's a mod)

oh and

Welcome to the ECF

 

[sistercreepy]

I have airflow issues with my pro tanks also. I replace the coil heads and it seems to fix them but not for as long as it should in my opinion. I have 5 or 6 different tanks I vape on all day long so any single one of the pro tanks doesn't get a work out per say. I bought a Kanger Pro Tank III...put in a new head and within 6 hours of use I was having airflow issues. I replaced the head and it's working now but the point is I shouldn't have to replace a brand new head after a couple hours. I like the pro tank but I won't be spending anymore of my hard earned cash on them. I'm going to check out other options like the Davide and the Puritank. As of right now my Evod tanks are my "steady Eddie's". If the "white rubber cap" your referring to is the one that goes over the stem of the coil...you don't want to take that off. You'll have juice all over the place.

 

[elfy]

I use kanger protank II minis, and Ive found that the heads kinda suck...


Hit my blog entry, there is a video and what Ive learned about redoing the coils myself and the vapor production is MUCH better - way better flavor too.

 

[supersport13]

Wow, thanks for all the helpful info! I'm using my PT2@ on an ego c twist. Dakota Jim, I know the holes are clear because when I unscrew it about a 3rd of the way off it vapes, but then the tank is kind of floppy on my ego. It was weird though, because it happened all of a sudden. Maybe the threads stretched on the base?

 

[supersport13]

There are little holes on the side of the 510 threads on the base, are they clear? and make sure you are not screwing the tank down so tight you are covering these holes up when you attach it to your battery.

If you have to really crank it down tight to get a connection for it to fire you may need to pry the positive terminal inside the 510 threads up a very small amount on the battery itself - use a needle and be careful (remove the battery 1st if it's a mod)



oh and

Welcome to the ECF

I might try prying on the head like you said. Maybe the positive terminal got pushed down a little bit.

 

[e-pipeman]

Clean all of your bits. The only atomiser I think that water should be allowed on is the Protank/Evod head. Wash the head in cold water and let it stand for a few days. Let it dry.The main thing is to screw them in really tightly or else not only will you have air-flow issues but also the dreaded gurgle, which is pants.

 

[supersport13]

Clean all of your bits. The only atomiser I think that water should be allowed on is the Protank/Evod head. Wash the head in cold water and let it stand for a few days. Let it dry.The main thing is to screw them in really tightly or else not only will you have air-flow issues but also the dreaded gurgle, which is pants.

I clean my bits with boiling water, let them soak overnight, pull them apart, dry burn them, and put them back together and let them dry.
I've tried different coils too, but still no airflow when it is screwed all the way down. Ive thought about maybe putting in a real tiny washer between where the base of my pt2 screws into the top of my ego, but would that short something out?

 

[SPeteW]

I have been rebuilding protank II for a while now. I think the draw is kinda tight, and I don't like that you have to keep them loose on your device(I use a provari) to get decent air flow. I drilled out all 3 air holes on my bases with a 1/16 drill bit. Now I can screw it all the way down and get full air flow. Another thing is make sure the head is screwed down all the way in the base or it will cause connection and leaking issues.

I always use the top silicon piece on the head. If you chose to rebuild the head (which I highly recommend) use a 1/16 drill bit, 12 wraps 28 gauge kanthal. I use cotton to rewick the head. Take a piece of cotton that is thin enough to thread through the coil, roll up the tip and pull through. Now here is where my build differs from most I have seen. I leave about 10mm of cotton sticking out both sides of the head. When you screw the head to the base pull up the silicon piece and tuck the cotton around the head. Not too tight and kinda keep it loose where the cotton first comes out of the head. When you are done the cotton wrap around and almost meet the cotton on the other side. Cotton lasts a few tanks depending on juice, I have about 10 heads I rebuild. I always have a spare with me and takes a few minutes a head to rewick once a week. Coils last a long time. I do dry burn mine between rewicking, just pulse it and don't let it glow long, just enough to clean the coil.

Another little tidbit, if you really like your protank II, buy a couple protank III heads and you can use the silicon insert and positive pin. The silicon insert seems to hold up to heat much better when dry burning and using both pieces makes rebuilding easier. As you can see this head has the protank III silicon insert and positive pin.

Hope this helps. My tanks never leak, and rarely get dry hit. They run 1.7-1.8 ohms and I run them at 9 watts, pretty much 4 volts. After a few tanks the dry hits might start, that just means you need to change out the cotton.

 

[mightymen]

When you screw your new heads into the base only make it snug not to tight it has a O-RING above the screw section that if you make it tight it will compress the O-ring. Tip if your having air flow issues take your tank with head in it turn it upside down and back off the head 1/4 turn with a screw driver if this fix's the air flow that's your problem. Caution is needed with new heads not to compress the little O-ring.

 

[elfy]

hm ill have to try that with the extra cotton bit, not really getting leaks (yet) but a few gurgles...especially if the tanks been laying flat or at an angle....bleh, now I need a better thing to keep my vape gear in, dont I?

...to the thrift store \o/!!

 

[MAF0Elffen]

Couple of quick things I've seen with mine...

Before that... Do not remove that little white cap/ring on the top of the coil head. That ring is the seal between the coil head and the tube that comes down from the drip tube. If you remove that, it will leak and flood the coil (and battery).


First thing to look at is remove the atomizer from the battery and see if there is liquid there. If you suck and you hear a gurgling sound, most likely fluid there. Dry it. Then put a tissue on the bottom of the atomizer and blow... clean.

The beauty rings that come with the Kanger... I drilled two 1/16" holes in the blank sides of that ring to let more air in. I did that for my first one... My local store had rings with bigger air slots... That's what I replace my Kanger beauty rings with now (and now I just toss the ones that are included).

Next is watching what eliquids you use in them. I like Vanilla's. They have a lot of sugars or other ingredients in them that caramelize on the coils. I like those kinds of flavors and am just aware that that's going to happen... So I clean them regularly. (washing and burning) I take apart the coils heads to do this. Which is fairly easy on Kanger coils. If you are using a sweet tasting eliquid and they keep getting a burned taste to them after a while, that is what happens.

I've had one coil I let go for a while without rinsing... And inside the head was almost completely plugged. You can't do a burn to clean these without taking the head apart. There is an extra wick that lays on top the coil wound wick, so if not, stuff gets trapped between there. But, also, because it's built that way, that's how I think it does work so well (when clean). Look for a video on YouTube which goes into good detail on that.

 

[devauto]

My PT2 base stopped flowing for some reason. It was like one second it was working great and the next time I put it on....bam...no airflow. So I use my mini PT2 base for my regular PT2 and it works fine. I read somewhere that taking the little white rubber cap that sits on top of the wicks can be removed to make a better vape, but it seems as if it might flood if I do that. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I suggest trying to pull the center pin of the coil (not the battery) out just a little bit. What's happening is that you are installing the tank too tight, and it is causing the center pin of the tank to compress the white insulator, which in turn causes it to expand outwards and block the airflow holes in the base. By pulling the center pin out just a touch, it relieves the pressure put on the insulator and opens the airway again.

When you put the tank on the battery, DO NOT tighten it down hard, it only needs to be "snug" so that it stays in place. Tightening it past this point will cause the problem all over again. The general rule for ANY part of your setup is to ONLY tighten until snug, it's how they perform best. When you over tighten any part of it, you can actually cause problems with your gear. If tanks are put together too loose, they can leak, too tight and they can also leak. The trick is finding the right amount of tightness to keep it working without any problems.

HTH!

 

[steel bender]

I have been rebuilding protank II for a while now. I think the draw is kinda tight, and I don't like that you have to keep them loose on your device(I use a provari) to get decent air flow. I drilled out all 3 air holes on my bases with a 1/16 drill bit. Now I can screw it all the way down and get full air flow. Another thing is make sure the head is screwed down all the way in the base or it will cause connection and leaking issues.

I always use the top silicon piece on the head. If you chose to rebuild the head (which I highly recommend) use a 1/16 drill bit, 12 wraps 28 gauge kanthal. I use cotton to rewick the head. Take a piece of cotton that is thin enough to thread through the coil, roll up the tip and pull through. Now here is where my build differs from most I have seen. I leave about 10mm of cotton sticking out both sides of the head. When you screw the head to the base pull up the silicon piece and tuck the cotton around the head. Not too tight and kinda keep it loose where the cotton first comes out of the head. When you are done the cotton wrap around and almost meet the cotton on the other side. Cotton lasts a few tanks depending on juice, I have about 10 heads I rebuild. I always have a spare with me and takes a few minutes a head to rewick once a week. Coils last a long time. I do dry burn mine between rewicking, just pulse it and don't let it glow long, just enough to clean the coil.

Another little tidbit, if you really like your protank II, buy a couple protank III heads and you can use the silicon insert and positive pin. The silicon insert seems to hold up to heat much better when dry burning and using both pieces makes rebuilding easier. As you can see this head has the protank III silicon insert and positive pin.

Hope this helps. My tanks never leak, and rarely get dry hit. They run 1.7-1.8 ohms and I run them at 9 watts, pretty much 4 volts. After a few tanks the dry hits might start, that just means you need to change out the cotton.

View attachment 278064View attachment 278065

Umm, if you have a protank 2, I would not suggest getting protank 3 coil heads even if you're only going to use them for parts as the coil heads won't work with the pt2, so only some of the parts would be reusable.

 

[jocat54]

I suggest trying to pull the center pin of the coil (not the battery) out just a little bit. What's happening is that you are installing the tank too tight, and it is causing the center pin of the tank to compress the white insulator, which in turn causes it to expand outwards and block the airflow holes in the base. By pulling the center pin out just a touch, it relieves the pressure put on the insulator and opens the airway again.

When you put the tank on the battery, DO NOT tighten it down hard, it only needs to be "snug" so that it stays in place. Tightening it past this point will cause the problem all over again. The general rule for ANY part of your setup is to ONLY tighten until snug, it's how they perform best. When you over tighten any part of it, you can actually cause problems with your gear. If tanks are put together too loose, they can leak, too tight and they can also leak. The trick is finding the right amount of tightness to keep it working without any problems.

HTH!

I agree this is the problem. That is why the mini base works.
Mine has been sitting idle because it is just too sensitive to installing on the battery. I have ordered a mini base for it and hopefully will fix the problem because I really do like the PT2.......................when it works.

 

[steel bender]

My PT2 base stopped flowing for some reason. It was like one second it was working great and the next time I put it on....bam...no airflow. So I use my mini PT2 base for my regular PT2 and it works fine. I read somewhere that taking the little white rubber cap that sits on top of the wicks can be removed to make a better vape, but it seems as if it might flood if I do that. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Ok, so something similar just happened to my pt2 base and the coil that was in it. I'm not really sure exactly what happened, because I'm usually very careful about making sure not to over tighten anything, but the threading on both the base and that coil got screwed up. When I tried to use it, there was absolutely no airflow. I switched to my pt1 base with the same coil and it worked, but not very well. So then I put a new coil in with my pt1 base (using it in the pt2 tank) it's working perfectly. So something I did damaged that base and coil and I will have to pick up a replacement base somewhere, in case I screw up my base from the pt1.

After this happened I ran across pbusardo's youtube vid on the protanks, and he was having a similar problem.

A PBusardo Review - ProTank II, Mini ProTank, Davide, & a Contest - YouTube

Long story short he had two pt2's and if he tightened both down all the way, one had airflow and the other didn't. So, some early made bases may have had a defect, or like me, it's possible to damage them. So you either have to keep it slightly unscrewed or get a new base.

Edit: it was around 10 mins into the vid, where he was going over the issue

 

[supersport13]

I have been rebuilding protank II for a while now. I think the draw is kinda tight, and I don't like that you have to keep them loose on your device(I use a provari) to get decent air flow. I drilled out all 3 air holes on my bases with a 1/16 drill bit. Now I can screw it all the way down and get full air flow. Another thing is make sure the head is screwed down all the way in the base or it will cause connection and leaking issues.

I always use the top silicon piece on the head. If you chose to rebuild the head (which I highly recommend) use a 1/16 drill bit, 12 wraps 28 gauge kanthal. I use cotton to rewick the head. Take a piece of cotton that is thin enough to thread through the coil, roll up the tip and pull through. Now here is where my build differs from most I have seen. I leave about 10mm of cotton sticking out both sides of the head. When you screw the head to the base pull up the silicon piece and tuck the cotton around the head. Not too tight and kinda keep it loose where the cotton first comes out of the head. When you are done the cotton wrap around and almost meet the cotton on the other side. Cotton lasts a few tanks depending on juice, I have about 10 heads I rebuild. I always have a spare with me and takes a few minutes a head to rewick once a week. Coils last a long time. I do dry burn mine between rewicking, just pulse it and don't let it glow long, just enough to clean the coil.

Another little tidbit, if you really like your protank II, buy a couple protank III heads and you can use the silicon insert and positive pin. The silicon insert seems to hold up to heat much better when dry burning and using both pieces makes rebuilding easier. As you can see this head has the protank III silicon insert and positive pin.

Hope this helps. My tanks never leak, and rarely get dry hit. They run 1.7-1.8 ohms and I run them at 9 watts, pretty much 4 volts. After a few tanks the dry hits might start, that just means you need to change out the cotton.

View attachment 278064View attachment 278065

ya know, I had thought about drilling those holes out...now I will! Nothing to lose now anyway. Thank you for your reply, that really helps!

 

[RedNBlack]

I use kanger protank II minis, and Ive found that the heads kinda suck...


Hit my blog entry, there is a video and what Ive learned about redoing the coils myself and the vapor production is MUCH better - way better flavor too.

Thanks elfy,
Video was very eye opening....
Makes me want to rethink my coil rebuilds....
Still loooking for the peas......

 

[elfy]

Oh my pleasure, Red....thank RiP for that, tho..he did all the hard work figuring out the methods.

I just got tired of posting that over n over here so I made the blog entry to save me (and everyone) some time.

My rebuilt heads are much better, might get a gurgle from laying the tank down or tilting it when I put it in my car, but overall...way better vapor.

I just hope more folks try it, because its such a huge advantage over stock Kanger heads. They work well for a few days and then rapidly turn to crap. This way folks arent discouraged from gummy/nasty heads and are better able to save a little money and keep on vaping and avoid the analogs if possible.