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metalhed73

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Aug 1, 2013
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    Seen a lot of questions regarding rebuilding protank/evod/every clone that takes them heads. So i figured I would post up my process and what I have learned so far.

    What you will need:
    20130903_111357.jpg

    Disassemble the head:
    20130903_111457.jpg

    Wrap the coil on the drill bit:
    20130903_111842.jpg

    Put Coil in the head:
    20130903_111924.jpg

    Insert rubber insulator and bottom pin, remember one wire out side the insulator and one through, then insert pin:
    20130903_112147.jpg
     

    metalhed73

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    Aug 1, 2013
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      Pull Some cotton off of the ball, you really don't need much:
      20130903_112247.jpg

      Roll the cotton into a thin wick with one end tapered to make it easier to thread through the coil:
      20130903_112327.jpg

      Thread through the coil until you encounter resistence enough to move the coil instead of sliding cotton through (this would be the time to make final adjustments to the coil if needed):
      20130903_112427.jpg

      Trim Cotton:
      20130903_112517.jpg

      Insert chimney and slide on rubber grommet:
      20130903_112605.jpg



      At this point all you need to do is let it soak in a tank for a few minutes (doesn't take long with cotton) and enjoy the clean flavor of cotton.

      Some side notes:

      If you are getting gurgling or flooding at first give it some time before you consider adding any cotton flavor wicks to stop it, the cotton will expand as it completely soaks.

      Do not over compress the cotton to get it small enough to thread in, if you do it will expand in the coil and can choke off some of the wicking causing dry hits and poor performance.

      Never dry burn cotton, if flavor is tapering off do the following:

      gently pull wick out of coil
      dry burn coil (careful 32awg Kanthal will break if heated to much)
      roll new wick with above technique
      insert new wick
      soak and vape

      Edit: I realize the rubber grommet is not on the last pic but I do put it on and have not had any issues.
       
      Last edited:

      metalhed73

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      Aug 1, 2013
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        1.8ohms average

        The amount of cotton is the difference between flooding (gurgling sound and poor atomizer performance) and good performance.

        If it is leaking through to the battery connector you either don't have the "chimney" seated all the way or your head is not screwed into the tank base all the way. Also make sure the rubber insulator is in the correct way and seated all the way into the coil head.
         
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        kkanix

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        Jul 28, 2013
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          This is the best and easiest way to rebuild the head I have followed so far! I am a newbie but have tested building using 2mm Silica and 3mm Ekowool and although my first one from each were really good ones, cannot compare them to the cotton made.
          It has to do with someone's experience for sure but using this process I built 5 heads in just 10 minutes, could not believe it, all at average 1,8ohms, looking and working perfect.
          The taste of my liquids are better than ever!
          I do not have so thick drill bit but I believe that anything that can "just" fit in the head spaces can be used, I am using a piece of rounded pc psu power cable and it works.
          Was thinking to use also SS mesh before but thanks to you Metalhed I can stay with cotton - fast made - and really working ones!

          Also I was going to ask your vaping style and after how many days do you need to rebuild but who cares! It's a 2 minutes job! :D
           

          metalhed73

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          Aug 1, 2013
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            My protanks are travelers I usually rock a rda or genesis at home, thanks for the kind words most of my technique has been cobbled together off of this forum so I certainly can't take all the credit.

            If I am vaping heavy I might have to replace the wick once every 2-3 weeks and coil on twice that interval. I have about 7 heads and when I load my last good one I rebuild them all.

            sent in a scroll hidden in a .45acp hollow point
             

            newvap4me

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            Jul 23, 2013
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            Pasadena, CA, USA
              Hi metalhead73

              I am new to rebuildables and seen your post. Really great info. I am going to try using cotton once I understand rebuildables a little more.
              I posted a question yesterday but did not get many responses. You seem to have a lot of knowledge so maybe you can help me answer some of them.

              What type of Ekowool should I use hollow or braided?
              What diameter is good 1, 2, or 3?

              What gauge Kanthal wire, 32?
              Is it better to use Kanthal Ribbon?

              What type of stainless steel mesh, 316?
              Is 400 or 500 better?

              Thanks for any advice you can give.
               

              metalhed73

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              Aug 1, 2013
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                newvap4me,

                I have no experience with Ekowool so I am no good on help there, if it is similar to silica 2mm would be good from protank heads.

                32awg kanthal for regulated devices (other than DNA20 devices) 28awg for mechanical devices of mirco coils on regulated. Have only played a little bit with ribbon but have found that as a beginner you should stick with round because it is easier to work with.

                Mesh density is to me all about the thickness of the juice (VG/PG) high VG use coarse mesh like 325 or 400 for higher PG juice use finer mesh.
                 

                newvap4me

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                Jul 23, 2013
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                Pasadena, CA, USA
                  thanks metalhead73
                  I should have asked you this earlier but just thought of it now. For the protank rebuild how do you separate the chimney from the atomizer?
                  do you use pliers? I have tried removing the chimney before but it seemed really tight and did not end up doing it because I was afraid to damage the atomizer. Hope this question doesn't sound stupid.

                  Thanks again.
                   

                  metalhed73

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                  Aug 1, 2013
                  49
                  101
                  United States
                    No right or wrong way but whatever way works for you.

                    I probably use 3 times as much cotton and roll it between my fingers and thread it into the coil while its outside of base.

                    I do not use the rubber on air tube and zero dry hits vaping at 8 watts

                    No leaks... just another idea to try

                    have not had a reason to remove the rubber grommet thus far, of course as I said my protanks are my work/travel tanks so I rarely chain vape them which may explain why I have never had to remove the grommet.

                    Appreciate the input, no matter how much I think I know I always find there is more to learn.
                     

                    mgmrick

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                      It does not.... and wicks great for hv vaping

                      Curious, without the rubber grommet, what stops juice flow to the tip?
                      I've posted a few on this method as well, and am in love with cotton on this (the mini), but I'm using 30 Kanth, with 8-10 wraps on either a QTip stick or 5/64 drill bit, both the vape and flavor are fantastic
                       
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