Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it
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Ditto, i originally used a wisp of cotton and had a lot of leaks, now i twist a much bigger piece of cotton down as tight as i can get it. No leaks.
What's everyone doing for scorched grommets? My first rebuild a while back i was roasting that thing dry burning. Now i double the legs over and twist, and just tap once till i see my coils light up then im done. I still get a few very small scorch marks but thats all i have for now without soldering non resistance wire to the legs.. not at all interested in that.
Doubling up the legs will throw my resistance off by a bit, but good enough for now.
Thanks.
Doubling up the legs will throw my resistance off by a bit, but good enough for now.
Thanks.
I built a protank coil similar to this a few days ago. I watched a tutorial on YouTube that showed a 28 ga Kanthal, 12/11 wrap micro coil with a cotton wick. No flavor wick. I screwed up and cut my Kanthal too short, so I only got a 10/9 wrap. It metered out at 1.3 ohms and my Innokin SVD can handle that, so I decided to give it a try. At 7.5 watts, this setup gave me the best vaping I have had so far. Great flavor and very thick vapor. I thought I had found my perfect setup. The next day, I took a trip to the grocery store. Since I live in Florida, it was about 88° outside. The protank started leaking more than I have ever seen. I've been experimenting with adding flavor wick and it still leaks like crazy when I go outside. I think the leaking is mostly due to the reduction in viscosity caused by the heat. The best I've been able to do is use a flavor wick made from 2 strands pulled out of 2.5mm silica wick and I switched to a 30/70 pg/vg juice. The added viscosity slowed the leaking, but didn't stop it. Also, adding the flavor wick reduced the quality of the vapor greatly. If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it.
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Heat can thin out juice and cause problems
When I make mine cotton wicks I am using more cotton than most people. Roll it tight in my fingers and force into coil. I am using 32 gauge kanthal and mine come out at about 2.4 ohms. I remove the gasket on air tube and vape at 8 watts on kmax and 12 watts with svd without issues. Kmax produces more power than svd
When I make mine cotton wicks I am using more cotton than most people. Roll it tight in my fingers and force into coil. I am using 32 gauge kanthal and mine come out at about 2.4 ohms. I remove the gasket on air tube and vape at 8 watts on kmax and 12 watts with svd without issues. Kmax produces more power than svd
I tried 6-7 wraps with .3mm kanthal A1 ribbon on a 1/16 drill bit and squeezed them together (I think they are touching). Came out to 1.9 ohms. I can't believe how much vapor and good throat hit I am getting out of an evod on an ego vv. Probably twice as much or more than the stock atty. The tricky part for me was figuring the right amount of cotton so you don't need need flavor wicks and you don't get dry hits. Hasn't leaked once.
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try with more cotton. I'm beginning to believe this setup is not going to work in a warm climate.
Metalhed ... great tutorial!!! Works like a champ. First time tried it, the coil came out perfect. Less than five minutes and back in business. Made several since. Going to have my wife switch over to a Protank mini so we can recoil the same heads. So far all the coils have come out between 1.6 - 1.9 ohms. Working out a system to use a mech mod. Have found that this resistance works well for the juice being used and the voltage/current supplied by the small UltraFire 18350 1200mAh batteries used in my Vamo. Will switch to a similar IMR 18350 when going mechanical. That all being siad, you've really helped getting over the hurdle of recoiling attys.
If you are looking to take your protank to the next level with a mech look HERE I do a 28awg microcoil with about 6-7 wraps and it is a totally different animal on a mechanical (now pretty much my all day rig)
It seems like almost every time I try to rebuild a ProTank coil, it ends up shorting. It'll be solid until I put the chimney on. Then it varies a few tenths of an ohm. Then, as soon as I put the tank on, it stops working. I wish I could figure out what i'm doing wrong.
After you get the coil set in place, how do you cut/snip/break off the extra wire? If you still have a little nubbin of wire sticking out past the outer diameter of the coil base, it may be shorting out...?
Thank you so much. This is exactly the thread I was looking for. No more shelling out a couple of bucks every other tank.
Thanks for the thread man ive been reading like crazy about rebuilding lately this seems like an easy method to start with
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Have you checked to be sure the chimney isn't contacting the coil in any way?
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Nice work! As long as you have a nice coil with no serious short, the performance greatly depends on the cotton. I built two coils back to back, one on a T3S and one on an Evod. The T3S loves 25/75 pg/vg, the Evod loves 50/50 because of the slight difference in the wicks I put through.
I have been around 12 tanks through the Evod @ ~11W and it's been unstoppable. So impressed.
I have been around 12 tanks through the Evod @ ~11W and it's been unstoppable. So impressed.
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