hey..i was trying to reply to another thread on the protank and for some reason it wont let me....actually it wont let me post anywere but here
for those of you who have tried the protank and complain about how "airy" the hit is on it. remeber, the metal thread protector (beauty ring) thats included with your protank acts like an air regulator on the eGo battery. with the protank installed and tightened up, screw the collar down for a more airy draw, screw the collar up for a tighter harder draw. with the collar screwed up, i found that the vapor production is outstanding with huge clouds of vapor. also remember your not hitting an analog. i own several Kangertech Protanks and use them almost exclusively. found that trick out early on.... if adjusted properly and one of the wicks removed in the protank, it pretty much outperforms just about anything ive used to date.i use my protanks on an eVic which doesnt allow for the collar to be used, but the tank screws down far enough on the top that its not needed. i do however keep them handy fr my eGo twist batteries and any other eGo style batteries i have as back ups.
ive seen lots of people complaining about the airy draw of the protank, but not one time someone mention that the included collar acts as an air intake regulator...
Protank leaking problems?
the protank inner seal mating surface is prone to burrs and sharp edges from the factory. ive seen a couple that had edges so sharp if you removed the base and screwed it back on, the sharp edges would cut the innder seal and it would leak right into the mouthpiece/tube.
two things to remember. NEVER overtighten the base. sqishing the seal down, sharp edges or not is a disaster waiting to happen. IT WILL LEAK. i tighten it down just barely snug and then install on my battery. it always gets another little twist going on, and seals just right
if your protank has sharp edges inside where the seal mating surface is (look with a magnifying glass or jewelers loope) get yourself a piece of fine emery cloth and glue it to a pencil eraser and spin it around in the mating surface of the seal.
OR
if you have a dremel tool ( this is what i use) get yourself one of the small flat tipped rubber polishing wheels for it and polish the burrs off.
with no burrs and base installed properly you can not beat the protank.
for those of you who have tried the protank and complain about how "airy" the hit is on it. remeber, the metal thread protector (beauty ring) thats included with your protank acts like an air regulator on the eGo battery. with the protank installed and tightened up, screw the collar down for a more airy draw, screw the collar up for a tighter harder draw. with the collar screwed up, i found that the vapor production is outstanding with huge clouds of vapor. also remember your not hitting an analog. i own several Kangertech Protanks and use them almost exclusively. found that trick out early on.... if adjusted properly and one of the wicks removed in the protank, it pretty much outperforms just about anything ive used to date.i use my protanks on an eVic which doesnt allow for the collar to be used, but the tank screws down far enough on the top that its not needed. i do however keep them handy fr my eGo twist batteries and any other eGo style batteries i have as back ups.
ive seen lots of people complaining about the airy draw of the protank, but not one time someone mention that the included collar acts as an air intake regulator...
Protank leaking problems?
the protank inner seal mating surface is prone to burrs and sharp edges from the factory. ive seen a couple that had edges so sharp if you removed the base and screwed it back on, the sharp edges would cut the innder seal and it would leak right into the mouthpiece/tube.
two things to remember. NEVER overtighten the base. sqishing the seal down, sharp edges or not is a disaster waiting to happen. IT WILL LEAK. i tighten it down just barely snug and then install on my battery. it always gets another little twist going on, and seals just right
if your protank has sharp edges inside where the seal mating surface is (look with a magnifying glass or jewelers loope) get yourself a piece of fine emery cloth and glue it to a pencil eraser and spin it around in the mating surface of the seal.
OR
if you have a dremel tool ( this is what i use) get yourself one of the small flat tipped rubber polishing wheels for it and polish the burrs off.
with no burrs and base installed properly you can not beat the protank.
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