protovapor xpv

[mculley47]

Have any of you guys had problems with the 510 pin getting pushed down? I have been super careful but it still seems like mine might be pushing its way down. About how much taller is it than the rubber seal around it? Mines close to flush


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[newyork13]

I haven't had any problems with the pin, using a Protank and Aspire BDC.

Have any of you guys had problems with the 510 pin getting pushed down? I have been super careful but it still seems like mine might be pushing its way down. About how much taller is it than the rubber seal around it? Mines close to flush


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[hazozita]

Have any of you guys had problems with the 510 pin getting pushed down? I have been super careful but it still seems like mine might be pushing its way down. About how much taller is it than the rubber seal around it? Mines close to flush

No problems with mine. It sits just a bit proud of the seal. Although it's not adjustable in the flush version of the 510, I've not had any connection problems with anything I've put on it (variety of carto tanks and RBAs).

 

[jameth]

Have any of you guys had problems with the 510 pin getting pushed down? I have been super careful but it still seems like mine might be pushing its way down. About how much taller is it than the rubber seal around it? Mines close to flush


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The center pin on my KFL sticked out like 1 to 2 mm from the 510, and could not be adjusted in anymore. I was still tighting it down pretty good on my XPV and VS dna, but did notice that it was pushing my center pins in a bit more then I liked.

A few mins with a metal file on my KFL 510 center pin, and I had my KFL nice and flush, and connectors are all looking good.

You can carefully shift the XPV center pin up just like you can on other 510 connectors, just get something in there and gently lift it up a bit.

I think you would have to have a REALLY messed up protruding center pin on an atty, and REALLY crank that sucker down on the XPV, to actually cause any real damage.


I do think that the 510 connector on the XPV is probably it's weakest point, would be cool to see a custom milled stainless steel top cap that could be easily replaced and super durable.

 

[cecsystems]

On mine; the KFL+ didn't fire... but the Russian 91% did, so all good, however, just for giggles I will try to pull the pin up to see if I can get the KFL working... good call Jameth.

 

[mculley47]

Yeah I'm thinking mine didn't move, but it's just kind of a deep one. My mvp 2 is the same way


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[jameth]

My MVP 2 pin moves a lot!

The KFL that had the pin sticking out a bit would always push it way far in so that nothing else would connect at all untill I pulled up the MVP2 center pin.

The XPV seemed more able to handle it better then the MVP2.

 

[Obi Wan Vapori]

My MVP 2 pin moves a lot!

The KFL that had the pin sticking out a bit would always push it way far in so that nothing else would connect at all untill I pulled up the MVP2 center pin.

The XPV seemed more able to handle it better then the MVP2.

Have not taken mine apart to see how everything works but when my center pin does not make a connection because of switching tanks I just take a small screwdriver and give the center pin a half turn out. Not to be insulting but ya all know that it screws in and out? I really would not recommend pulling on it...

 

[Obi Wan Vapori]

Sorry jameth, guess I need to read posts slower. See now you were referring to a different mod.

OK, that's my DUH for tonight.

 

[Burnside]

I've been really enjoying my XPV for the past month now. Only problem I've had is the ohms are not registering on the digital readout anymore. I was told by protovapor that this issue is resolved by power cycling the battery by disconnecting it and then reconnecting. The process seems a little complicated so I might just wait for the video tutorial to come out (hopefully protovapor will get the video done sooner than later). Beside not reading the ohms, it is working great, and seeing as I know the ohms range of the protank2, I don't really need this feature right away anyways.

I really like the XPV DNA20, and I would definitely recommend it to anyone interested in variable wattage vaping. Protovapor's customer service is top notch and that makes the XPV an even more worthwhile purchase.

 

[tmcase]

I've been really enjoying my XPV for the past month now. Only problem I've had is the ohms are not registering on the digital readout anymore. I was told by protovapor that this issue is resolved by power cycling the battery by disconnecting it and then reconnecting. The process seems a little complicated so I might just wait for the video tutorial to come out (hopefully protovapor will get the video done sooner than later). Beside not reading the ohms, it is working great, and seeing as I know the ohms range of the protank2, I don't really need this feature right away anyways.

I really like the XPV DNA20, and I would definitely recommend it to anyone interested in variable wattage vaping. Protovapor's customer service is top notch and that makes the XPV an even more worthwhile purchase.

I had this problem with my Mamu DNA mod. The solution was to vape the battery all the down until it wouldn't fire anymore then recharge. The ohms started working again after doing this. Hope this helps you.

 

[Mattnatti]

No issues with 510 or ohm meter to report here.

 

[Rossum]

I've been really enjoying my XPV for the past month now. Only problem I've had is the ohms are not registering on the digital readout anymore. I was told by protovapor that this issue is resolved by power cycling the battery by disconnecting it and then reconnecting.

Why do I think they actually mean power-cycling the DNA 20? Sounds like a DNA 20 bug (which would be in no way Protovapor's fault), but I've not heard it mentioned before.

 

[mculley47]

Have not taken mine apart to see how everything works but when my center pin does not make a connection because of switching tanks I just take a small screwdriver and give the center pin a half turn out. Not to be insulting but ya all know that it screws in and out? I really would not recommend pulling on it...

You're talking about the center pin on the Kayfun or on the xpv?



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[hazozita]

Now that the DNA 30 is out, I wonder if Protovapor will be offering it in the upcoming XPVs?

Link is for the datasheet on the DNA30 on the Evolve site: http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf

 

[Rossum]

The DNA 30 looks to be form-factor compatible; it should be a drop-in replacement.

Personally, I don't see needing more that 20 watts. Heck, so far I haven't needed more than 10 (and am usually closer to 8), but then I haven't started building my own coils yet either.

That will change soon; first RBA is currently en route. After much deliberation and research, I decided to start with a Squape despite the fact that I think it's rather ugly.

 

[jameth]

Whoa! That is awesome that EVOLV kept it the same dimensions as the DNA20!

Part of me thinks its excessive, but there has been times with my dual coil RBA that I would have liked to go over 20 watts and still have it fully regulated.

In all reality though, all you need to do to get over 20 watts on the DNA20 is put something under 1 ohm, and drop the wattage on the DNA20 below what it can regulate, then the DNA20 just sends the full battery power through to the 510, which can be over 20 watts depending on the resistance of the atty.

The benefit of using the DNA30 to get over 20 watts is that it is still fully regulated, and you could still fine tune your actual output power.


IME running the DNA20 at full 20 watts drains even a 2900 mah cell quite fast, seems to me faster then the same cell in a mech, the regulation has some overhead and consumes additional power.

I am really curious if the DNA30 is perhaps more efficient in the 7 to 20 watt range then the DNA20 is, it is conceivable that the DNA30 would be more efficient and might give better run time.

 

[hazozita]

That will change soon; first RBA is currently en route. After much deliberation and research, I decided to start with a Squape despite the fact that I think it's rather ugly.

Don't think of it as ugly -- think of it as plain-looking! I love my Squape -- bought the clone to play around with, and it has impressed me to the extent that I'm going to get the real one. The ability to fiddle with the coil and wick without having to drain the tank is a big plus in my book.

 

[Rossum]

I am really curious if the DNA30 is perhaps more efficient in the 7 to 20 watt range then the DNA20 is, it is conceivable that the DNA30 would be more efficient and might give better run time.

I doubt you'll see a significant difference, and some of it might be attributable to the shorter (2 minutes vs. 4 minutes) screen time-out. Why the screen timeout still isn't configurable is a real head-scratcher to me. Personally, I'd be fine with it at 15 seconds.

 

[Rossum]

Don't think of it as ugly -- think of it as plain-looking! I love my Squape -- bought the clone to play around with, and it has impressed me to the extent that I'm going to get the real one. The ability to fiddle with the coil and wick without having to drain the tank is a big plus in my book.

Yep, the ability to play with the coil and wicking without draining the tank was a big selling point for me, considering this will be my first RBA. Plus not having to worry about the coil shorting on the base, and not having to fiddle around getting the extra wicking down to where it can pick up juice, etc. It's almost like those Swiss guys took a Kayfun and asked themselves, "How can we make something that works this well but is actually easy for a beginner to use?" Oh, wait, that's exactly what they did.