protovapor xpv

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Rossum

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Re-Coiled my IGO W-4 with dual micros, coming in at 0.7 ohms, hits like a freight train on the XPV!
It will fire something that low?
Why wouldn't it? The dna 20 can deliver 6 amps. With a 0.7 ohm load, you're not pushing the current limit until 4.2V; the trouble is you're hitting the power limit of 20 watts at around 3.75V.. The biggest problem I see with such a low resistance load is that it you're only going to be able to operate it in a relatively narrow range of power, roughly between 15 and 20 watts.

What puzzles me is why one would want to run such a low-resistance coil on a dna 20. A low resistance coil is needed on a mech mod, 'cause that's the only way you're going to get serious power out of it. But on a dna 20 a coil in the range of 2.0 - 3.0 ohms will still get you the full range of power (7 - 20 watts) and seems much more sensible, no?
 

jameth

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Why wouldn't it? The DNA 20 can deliver 6 amps. With a 0.7 ohm load, you're not pushing the current limit until 4.2V; the trouble is you're hitting the power limit of 20 watts at around 3.75V.. The biggest problem I see with such a low resistance load is that it you're only going to be able to operate it in a relatively narrow range of power, roughly between 15 and 20 watts.

What puzzles me is why one would want to run such a low-resistance coil on a DNA 20. A low resistance coil is needed on a mech mod, 'cause that's the only way you're going to get serious power out of it. But on a DNA 20 a coil in the range of 2.0 - 3.0 ohms will still get you the full range of power (7 - 20 watts) and seems much more sensible, no?


The DNA20 will send the full power of the battery through if you set the wattage lower then it can step down the voltage to, so it is possible to get over 20 watts, and it is still "protected" by the DNA20 to some degree.

Your absolutely right that going that low in ohms is not needed for the DNA20 devices, and kind of restricts some of what you can do.

I wasn't really targeting .7 ohms in that build, I was actually gonna just do a single coil build, but happened to have just enough left over kanthal on the piece I cut to do a second coil, and figured what the hell.

I am still having a lot of fun playing with all the variables in coils, inside diameter, kanthal guage, total length, style of wrapping, methods of wicking, ect... It is really nice to be able to push anything from a 0.7 ohm coil, all the way up to like a 4 ohm or more if you wanted to, all on ONE device.

So yea, sub ohm isn't needed on DNA20 devices, but it is doable, and really just becomes another option in your tool belt when it comes to playing with coil design!
 

jameth

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I love educating myself on these forums. Why a mech and why a REO?


A mechanical mod has pretty much nothing to fail. By design a mechanical mod uses a "mechanical action" as the fire switch, instead of a manufactured switch that has many points of failure. In most mech mods you are pushing a spring loaded pin against the battery itself to fire your atty. Very durable, nothing to fail really.

The REO in particular I like for a few reasons, it's a box, and I love box mods. It's a bottom fed mod, which I really like the idea of, it acts like a dripper, but is fed from the bottom of the atty by squeezing a little bottle in the case. This in particular is nice when you frequently traverse large changes in elevation, most of your bottom coil tanks will flood to some degree in this scenario, but a bottom fed dripper would have no problems. Also the REO is known to be incredibly durable, made in USA,ect.


I can't really see myself putting the DNA20's down when I get the REO, I mostly want it for the utility of if for years to come no matter what.
 

newyork13

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Between posting my question for you, and your reply, I took at look at the REO website. It's really interesting. So, if one wanted to switch juices with a REO, then one would have several juice bottles and alternate?

I never considered altitudes's effects. How large a change in altitude is needed to cause issues? I'm wondering if living in VT at 700' and regularly traversing altitude change of between sea level and say 2000' would qualify?

A mechanical mod has pretty much nothing to fail. By design a mechanical mod uses a "mechanical action" as the fire switch, instead of a manufactured switch that has many points of failure. In most mech mods you are pushing a spring loaded pin against the battery itself to fire your atty. Very durable, nothing to fail really.

The REO in particular I like for a few reasons, it's a box, and I love box mods. It's a bottom fed mod, which I really like the idea of, it acts like a dripper, but is fed from the bottom of the atty by squeezing a little bottle in the case. This in particular is nice when you frequently traverse large changes in elevation, most of your bottom coil tanks will flood to some degree in this scenario, but a bottom fed dripper would have no problems. Also the REO is known to be incredibly durable, made in USA,ect.


I can't really see myself putting the DNA20's down when I get the REO, I mostly want it for the utility of if for years to come no matter what.
 

jameth

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Between posting my question for you, and your reply, I took at look at the REO website. It's really interesting. So, if one wanted to switch juices with a REO, then one would have several juice bottles and alternate?

I never considered altitudes's effects. How large a change in altitude is needed to cause issues? I'm wondering if living in VT at 700' and regularly traversing altitude change of between sea level and say 2000' would qualify?


Yea switch out bottles for new flavor.

I think a couple thousand feet change probably can contribute to something like a protank or EVOD flooding yea, since they work on a under a vacuum, so when the air pressure changes, it causes it to either flood or not wick well.

I work on remote mountain tops from time to time, and go from just under 3000 ft, to as high as 8500 ft or more depending where I am going.

When I know I am going into a situation like that, and am using a bottom coil tank, I will turn it upside down so that the wick channels are in open air inside the tank, that will allow it to breath without pushing liquid out. It helps to stick a little piece of napkin or something in the end of the drip tip because there will usually be a drop or two that will come out from condensation in the airpath and whatever is in the coil area. Once your no longer fluctuating in elevation / pressure, then flip it back over and vape as usual.
 
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mculley47

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Why wouldn't it? The DNA 20 can deliver 6 amps. With a 0.7 ohm load, you're not pushing the current limit until 4.2V; the trouble is you're hitting the power limit of 20 watts at around 3.75V.. The biggest problem I see with such a low resistance load is that it you're only going to be able to operate it in a relatively narrow range of power, roughly between 15 and 20 watts.

What puzzles me is why one would want to run such a low-resistance coil on a DNA 20. A low resistance coil is needed on a mech mod, 'cause that's the only way you're going to get serious power out of it. But on a DNA 20 a coil in the range of 2.0 - 3.0 ohms will still get you the full range of power (7 - 20 watts) and seems much more sensible, no?

Yeah I agree with you. I'm not gonna sub ohm with mine. I just don't know a ton about the dna20 yet. Somebody told me it would only fire 1 ohm and above


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

cecsystems

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Glad you were able to resolve your own issue Jameth. It is reassuring to know that it can be worked on fairly easy.

Cannot help but wonder if taking your top cap off earlier may have agitated the loose connection. I guess it could be a possibility. Regardless, kudos to you for fixing your own gear and showing us details.


:toast:

I kind of wondered that to with regards to opening up the top to see the "guts"; but even so, thank you for doing it... saves the "rest" of us from looking... lol.
 

hazozita

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What’s on everyone’s wish list for the next version of the XPV? For me, I’d love to have the ability to have a removable battery plus retain the option to charge it in the device. Best of both worlds. I’d also like to see an adjustable 510 connection with the flush 510 mount option (it’s adjustable in the ego version).

I’d keep everything else the same – great size, feel, and build quality. Although, an option for a red case would be nice....
 

Mattnatti

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I am not sure I would change much.
Well built DNA mod that is comfortable to carry, works well, looks cool, custom options, lightweight, sub $200 and get it delivered to your door in around 10days. Sounds like a winning package to me.

I am sure there are some refinements they will do, I just hope they don't change it too much.
 
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