Provari 3 battery life indicator inaccurate???
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I have seen this behavior with a friends P3. I stretched the spring a bit and that did not help, although that could be helpful and is worth a try. Then I cleaned the bottom cap and tube threads, both inside and outside threads, with alcohol and the IQ went from 36 to 89 and the P3 work great from then on. Give both of those a try and see if there is a difference in IQ. A low IQ is a pretty clear indication of a resistance problem somewhere and by trying a few things and checking IQ each time you should be able to solve this pretty quickly.
I have found reading the IQ quite valuable in pin pointing problems that cause vape quality issues. Please let us know how it goes for you.
BTW, I regularly use VTC5s and have a very high IQ with them and they perform great with the P3 so I don't think VTC5s are a problem at all if they are in good condition. If the batteries are marginal and have developed a high internal resistance, which batteries do as they degrade over time, that could certainly be an issue. But any good quality battery in reasonable shape should perform quite well. It's well worth cleaning the top and bottom of the batteries themselves as well to make sure they are clean and free of and residue that would cause resistance problems.
I sent an email to Provape with what I thought was asking the same question you are asking and this is their response.
A few months ago the low battery light would flash a lot sooner than it would normally and I would put it on the charger and put in a fresh charged battery. Next day the battery low light would start flashing and same scenario, I would replace with fresh battery.
So I checked the voltage on the Provari V2.5 before it went into the non digital charger (bought in the start up package) and it would be 3.2 - 3.4 volts. I thought the batteries were draining faster than usual but were only 4-months old. So I check each battery with a voltmeter and they were all at 4.1-4.2 volts off the charger but when checked on the mod they were showing 3.8-or lower volts?
Now I have a digital Xtar VP1.....batteries charge to 4.2volts @.5amps charge rate every time....voltmeter is 4.2 volts but the mod shows 3.8volts +or- everytime??
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Oh and I use nothing but AW IMR authentic batteries...
A few months ago the low battery light would flash a lot sooner than it would normally and I would put it on the charger and put in a fresh charged battery. Next day the battery low light would start flashing and same scenario, I would replace with fresh battery.
So I checked the voltage on the Provari V2.5 before it went into the non digital charger (bought in the start up package) and it would be 3.2 - 3.4 volts. I thought the batteries were draining faster than usual but were only 4-months old. So I check each battery with a voltmeter and they were all at 4.1-4.2 volts off the charger but when checked on the mod they were showing 3.8-or lower volts?
Now I have a digital Xtar VP1.....batteries charge to 4.2volts @.5amps charge rate every time....voltmeter is 4.2 volts but the mod shows 3.8volts +or- everytime??
{Moderated-Removed email response. Please read: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-forum-rules/51178-forum-rules.html
12. Communications considered private
Posting the content of PMs or personal emails on the forum is not allowed. All PMs and emails are deemed to be confidential and cannot be made public except with the prior written consent of the author.}
Oh and I use nothing but AW IMR authentic batteries...
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Turn off your Provi and read the voltage. It will be higher because its not firing the atty while it reads.
Maybe i've had 4 too many cocktails...but how can you read the voltage with the Provari turned "off"...??
My mistake on the V3 software.
Unscrew your atty and read the voltage.
Unscrew your atty and read the voltage.
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AW IMR is the way to go, regardless if others will work; just as my Audi will run on regular gasoline, but requires premium for optimal performance...
3.59v without a load is not the same as with a load. The P3 will be measuring the voltage at firing while it's under load. If the voltage drops to around 3.1v (I don't recall the exact number, but it will be close to this number) while firing the P3 is correct in refusing to fire further for safety and preserving the battery so it doesn't over discharge. The algorithm used to detect the proper voltage cutoff is pretty complicated, but since you were using a 18490 it is safe to assume the continuous discharge rating will be lower than a typical 18650 battery, so the resting (unloaded) voltage will be higher when you reach the battery cutoff voltage under load than it would be for an 18650 battery. If you're not getting good life out of a charge it could be weak battery, a weak spring, dirty threads, or anything that can cause excess resistance.
Reminder: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-forum-rules/51178-forum-rules.html
12. Communications considered private
Posting the content of PMs or personal emails on the forum is not allowed. All PMs and emails are deemed to be confidential and cannot be made public except with the prior written consent of the author.
Do not post emails from others on the forum. Thank you
12. Communications considered private
Posting the content of PMs or personal emails on the forum is not allowed. All PMs and emails are deemed to be confidential and cannot be made public except with the prior written consent of the author.
Do not post emails from others on the forum. Thank you
I used the batteries they sent me which was the AW IMR 18490's. They are button tops and have had zero issues with my button blinking or inaccurate readings.
It says on there site they all their Provaris are ment to run button tops.
It says on there site they all their Provaris are ment to run button tops.
Here is a wealth of info from Provape here:
https://provape.zendesk.com/categories/20049537-FAQ
We could all benefit from reading it.
But, to answer your question... Send Provape an email. They will respond and help you get this right.
Let us know how it turns out.
Thanks, Jim
https://provape.zendesk.com/categories/20049537-FAQ
We could all benefit from reading it.
But, to answer your question... Send Provape an email. They will respond and help you get this right.
Let us know how it turns out.
Thanks, Jim
From the official Provape link:
https://provape.zendesk.com/entries...ondering-what-I-should-get-for-a-starter-kit-
"2. Batteries - There are three main types of batteries for the ProVari. The first one is the AW 18350. This is the shortest of the three batteries and is used in the Mini exclusively. This battery will give you moderate run time and does not require any additional hardware as the ProVari comes with the standard end cap that screws onto the end of the tube.
18490 - Can be used either in the Mini with the extended end cap or in the standard ProVari with the standard end cap. This battery will give you good run time and does not require additional hardware if you use it with the standard ProVari.
18650 - The AW 18650 is a longer battery which will operate for a longer period of time than the shorter 18490 before the battery needs to be recharged. With the longer battery you will also need to purchase the extended end cap. Since the 18650 battery is physically longer in size in order to use these you will need the extended end cap for them to fit."
https://provape.zendesk.com/entries...ondering-what-I-should-get-for-a-starter-kit-
"2. Batteries - There are three main types of batteries for the ProVari. The first one is the AW 18350. This is the shortest of the three batteries and is used in the Mini exclusively. This battery will give you moderate run time and does not require any additional hardware as the ProVari comes with the standard end cap that screws onto the end of the tube.
18490 - Can be used either in the Mini with the extended end cap or in the standard ProVari with the standard end cap. This battery will give you good run time and does not require additional hardware if you use it with the standard ProVari.
18650 - The AW 18650 is a longer battery which will operate for a longer period of time than the shorter 18490 before the battery needs to be recharged. With the longer battery you will also need to purchase the extended end cap. Since the 18650 battery is physically longer in size in order to use these you will need the extended end cap for them to fit."
The manual for the P3 states "● The P3 is compatible with flat top batteries."
Thank God i found this topic. I thought i was the only one having problems with P3. I put a fully charged AW 18350 IMR battery and it reads 91% after the first hit. The fully charged AW 18490 IMR read 96% after first hit. And the fully charged AW 18650 IMR reads 75% after the first hit.
The problem is I live in Brazil, and i paid a hell of taxes, making the price ending up 300% higher for a product that is not accurracy.
Battery reading is a fundamental tool. You need to know how much you got left. You need to know, if you will going to work, for a walk, or outside home, if you need to carry more batteries. And the way it is now, it's impossible.
I really hope Provari fix it. But HOW?
The problem is I live in Brazil, and i paid a hell of taxes, making the price ending up 300% higher for a product that is not accurracy.
Battery reading is a fundamental tool. You need to know how much you got left. You need to know, if you will going to work, for a walk, or outside home, if you need to carry more batteries. And the way it is now, it's impossible.
I really hope Provari fix it. But HOW?
We first need to properly diagnose your problems.
What are your settings ? And what is your actual battery life? What are your battery parameters?
Thanks, Jim
I think he did that. If a fully charged AW 18650 is reading at 75%, it sounds like a problem to me. I don't have a ProVari, but I always wanted one and I'm certainly not a hater. That being said, it really sounds like the new P3 has an issue.
PS, I guess it would be helpful to know if the battery was old or abused. That might be a contributing factor,
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No he really didn't... But thats fine.
If I fill my car with gas, get on the highway and drive a 100 mph and then say... Man my gas is going quickly. I think I should contact the carmaker and say... Hey your mpg ratings are wack or my car is broken.
All parameters have to be looked at.
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